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Studying Japanese

Filling in the gaps after JET

Chrys Tappas was an ALT in Ibaraki-ken.

As the season for reckoning in the JET Programme rolled around

during my second year, and I began contemplating the third, I knew

that it was time to move on. Having learned only bits and pieces of

Japanese while in the countryside (my forté was junior high school

slang), I became determined to fill the gaps in my Japanese language

ability. Many people, specifically my parents, asked me why I was

planning to study Japanese after JET. “Business...helping a foreign

company,” I would airily answer, and rush off. Truthfully, I was not

sure what I would do when I reached inevitable fluency after six

months of study.

I was accepted into a Japanese language school for the fall. I bid

farewell to the large application fee and packed up. October came and

I found myself staring blankly at a textbook filled with black pickup

sticks. Faced with the realization that it was now or possibly never

again, I squeezed in some daily studying between photographing

Kyoto, meeting friends for coffee and teaching to support my wild and

crazy lifestyle. After six months of study, the course ended, and to

my surprise I had learned quite a lot. As with anything, what you

put in, you usually get back. Learning Japanese is just a matter of

gumption and diligence.

It is possible to stay in a Japanese language school for a few years,

as a good friend of mine had done. However, in order to justify this

path I felt that I would have to commit to a future with a Japanese

focus and constant interaction with the confusing Japanese

communication style. The more I thought about this world, the more

I knew it was not for me. I did not commit to the next Japanese

course, but went home and volunteered as a canoe tour guide in

Maine, USA.

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I have no plans to live in Japan again, and sometimes thoughts

about this decision bring on an unexpectedly sad mood. As much as I

groused about the dearth of bagels and abundance of traffic jams,

thoughts about Japan will continue to enchant me wherever I am.

Intensive Japanese language courses

Gavin Burtonwood was an ALT in Wajima, Ishikawa-ken and was an

Associate Editor for the 2000 edition of this book.

So what can you expect from spending your summer holiday

studying at one of the many intensive Japanese language courses

offered by language schools in Japan?

For a month long study, expect to spend around 100,000 yen.

Add to that the cost of your accommodations, food, travel, beer money

and the rest, and you can budget on spending most of your August

salary.

Second, do not expect a miracle. Your Japanese ability will

improve but no course comes with a guarantee of fluency. A native

teacher who uses Japanese as the language of instruction generally

conducts classes and this will certainly improve your listening ability.

Rather than providing fluency in Japanese, many students find that

intensive courses give their Japanese the kick-start that it needed.

When I started such a course, I could not communicate in

Japanese. I knew the words but was embarrassed of making errors,

or not understanding what the other person was saying. During the

course I learned not to be embarrassed and to use the Japanese that I

had to say anything I wanted. Maybe I do not know the Japanese

word for giraffe but I do know how to describe it in such a way that

any Japanese person would understand to what I was referring. This

is a definite advance over the sign language I used to rely on.

Try to find a college that organises home-stays for its students.

They provide the ideal environment to practice Japanese. Each of

the home-stays I experienced was completely unique. All three

families shared everything with me, from the cultural highlights of

the area to magic shows and Beatles bars. With any luck you will

take away some valuable memories and lasting friendships. Many

intensive courses offer home-stays on a first come, first served basis

and so people who apply late will be obliged to find their own

accommodations.

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Let your workplace know well in advance that you are intending

to study at a language school. If the school has a prospectus, show it

to your supervisor or principal. Request educational leave:

kenshuu

Your supervisor will be impressed that you are making so much effort

to study Japanese and may allow you the study leave. Some ALTs

find that they are allowed the time to study without taking a day of

vacation time,

nenkyu

Others are compelled to take

nenkyu

or special leave,

tokubetsunenkyu,

for the entire length of the course. The following

website has a listing of Japanese language schools around the country,

listed by prefecture. Most do not have homepages. Some of the

colleges listed hold intensive language courses during the school

holidays and prior to the Japanese Language Proficiency Test:

http://kbic.ardour.co.jp/~newgenji/jls/index.ht ml

The Yamasa Institute (Aichi-ken)

Three courses are available over the summer with discounts for JETs.

It offers inexpensive accommodation, cultural activities, and some of

the best Japanese language teachers in the world.

http://www.yamasa.org

KAI Japanese School (Shinjuku, Tokyo)

Offers a three-week summer school. http://www.kaij.co.jp

E-mail: kaij@ca.mbn.or.jp

ARC Academy (Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka)

Offers intensive courses ranging from two to eight weeks. There are

on average ten students per class. http://www.arc.ac.jp

Academy of Language Arts (Shinjuku, Tokyo)

Offers one- and two-month long intensive summer courses.

http://kbic.ardour.co.jp/~newgenji/ala

AMICA (Tokyo)

Spring break intensive courses, golden week intensive courses,

summer intensive courses, Christmas and New Year’s courses.

http://www.amica.ac.jp

E-mail: amica@twics.com

Osaka YWCA

Offers courses ranging from summer intensive to full time and

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part-time morning or evening classes to JPLT prep courses, plus

private lessons

http://www.jca.ax.apc.org/ywca_osk

Tel: 06-6361-2955

E-mail: ywca_osk@jca.ax.apc.org

Kyoto Centre for Japanese Linguistic Studies, Kyoto Japanese Language

School

Instructors from this school participate in the linguistics/pedagogy

and

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translation courses offered by CLAIR. The school has been running since 1950

and offers a range of courses including a 4-week summer intensive course.

http://www.kjls.or.jp

E-mail [email protected].jp Tel: 075-414-04

Kyoto International Centre of Languages

21 Kamihata-cho, Kitashirakawa, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto Japan 606-8252

Tel: 075-722-5066 Fax: 722-50637

Offers three-week summer intensive courses from basic to advanced.

Apply well before the May 31 deadline. Longer intensive courses,

group and private lessons also available

SIL

Bell Idaimae 1F, 291 Nishi 18 chome, Minami 2-jo, Chuo ku, Sapporo,

Japan 060-0062 E-mail silnihon@spr.dpc.ne.jp

http://www.spr.dpc.ne.jp/silnihon

Studying Japanese and Methods for Success

Michael Radich lives in Nagano-ken and speaks both Chinese and Japanese.

He has passed the Level 1 of the Japanese Proficiency Test. The following are

his words of wisdom.

Myth #1: “Japanese is heinously difficult”

Japanese is a natural language that has evolved to suit the needs

of its native speakers for all kinds of practical and aesthetic

communication. As such, it is no harder (or easier) than any other

natural language. The kernel of truth in this myth is this: Japanese

is an isolated, typologically unique language. For native speakers of

Western languages, this means that there is little in what you already

know that will be of help to you in learning Japanese. More to learn

means it takes a longer time to learn it, and in this sense only it is

justifiable to call Japanese difficult. But this entire means is it

requires patience, not stunning intellectual prowess, to learn

Japanese.

Myth #2: “picking up the language”

Having no experience, I do not know if it truly is possible to just

mysteriously “pick up” European languages through mere contact,

like some communicable disease. I can fairly safely say that it is not

possible with Japanese. People do not leave the language lying

around the place for casual foreigners to snaffle up as a souvenir.

Without study, what you will “pick up,” at best, will be pidgin.

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How to study

Use a textbook

At beginner and intermediate levels, at least, the structured and

ordered picture of the language given by a good text is indispensable.

At advanced levels, texts are still extremely useful if you can find a

good one that covers the aspect of the language you are focusing on.

I have not conducted an extensive survey of the ocean of available

texts, but I can recommend

Japanese for Busy People,

which has

excellent explanations and exercises.

Have some sort of native speaker tuition

No matter how rural your situation, you should be able to find

someone willing to help you learn. Pay for a weekly lesson, or

organise an exchange in return for teaching your native language, or

go to free classes in one of the main centres. Do not expect the

teacher to structure your learning for you; you can use a text for that,

or your own initiative. When necessary, take active control of the

process, and come to the lesson with specific things that you want to

practice. Japanese people like talking to foreigners about the

language. It is a common talking point, and it is nice for them that

we are interested in their culture. Get into the habit of asking

questions of people, and when you find someone who is good at

answering, keep going back.

Study daily

The more you make study a regular habit, the less resistance you

will have to it. Regular study in small doses is more effective than

binging. Know your own attention span (which for intense tasks like

vocabulary memorisation may be as short as fifteen minutes or half

an hour) and respect it.

Learn from life

Combine your textbook study and lessons with learning from your

everyday life. Because you have met the language in a real situation,

you know it is really useful. Also, things from real life are so much

easier to remember, half of the work is already done for you. Keep a

notebook of the miscellany you encounter. There is no need to feel

awkward about jotting down occasional words in conversations with

Japanese friends.

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Memorize

Your notebooks need to become part of a regular and roughly

systematic process of memorizing their contents. Keep columns, one

with the item to be remembered and one with a prompt (e.g., a

translation in English). Go back over them and check which words

you have forgotten, and actively work on remembering those you have

trouble with. One system that seems pretty good is to go back three

times: once a day later, once a week later, and once a month later. In

keeping your notebook, you will find that on some days you encounter

dozens and dozens of new words. Have a daily limit over which you

just let it all go. Twenty or thirty words (or items to be memorised) a

day is not unrealistic.

In the early stages, when you still need to learn words, you can

label your whole house (i.e., a sticker that says “fridge” on the fridge).

Also, stick up the verbs for daily actions in the place where you

perform them (e.g., “brush teeth,” “wash face,” next to the basin, and

“wipe bum” in the loo).

The usefulness of context and connections to other things you

know is a key to being able to remember things. If you are having

trouble with a word, build more context and connections for it rather

than banging your head on a brick wall. You can create connections by

finding examples of how a word is used, either in a situational context

or in specific collocations. Looking words up in a dictionary, finding

related words or words that use the same kanji, or finding opposites

or other meanings for the same word are all useful methods.

Bringing the word into your own day-to-day life will help your

memorizing. I often start up strange little conversations with people

in my office with the sole purpose of surreptitiously slipping in a word

that I am having trouble learning.

Vary your study methods and situations

A German friend of mine once came to my door with the Chinese

for “forehead” written on his forehead, which looked ridiculous but

ensured I never forgot the word

naomen

. If you are alone and will

not be thought strange by anyone, acting out little scenarios

physically, with your body and facial expressions, will also help. You

can sometimes get your mouth to remember what your brain will not.

(Muscle memory or something.) In any case, mutter to yourself when

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you study; language learning is in part learning new motor control

skills. Work on pronunciation, and your body will assist with memory.

Variety is important. It will help you maintain interest, and

interest helps you retain what you are trying to learn. Conduct

Japanese lessons with your teacher in a café, read kids books, watch a

bit of TV with the dictionary, or learn to sing a Japanese song that

you like.

Finally, you also need to allow yourself to forget. In the long

term I think I forget about 20-30% of the vocabulary that I try to

learn. This is frustrating because memorisation is the hardest kind

of study and it feels worst to perceive it wasted. You should not let

this frustration, however, make you lose sight of the fact that

whatever proportion you forget, you are actually remembering all the

rest.

Well that is about all.

Do not be discouraged by the inevitable sense of frustration you

will experience through the learning process. Just as cultural

adjustment produces the culture-shock cycle of euphoria and

disappointment, language acquisition is characterized by a cycle of

emotions.

As long as you are working at learning, you will probably

experience periods where you sense progress and see yourself as a

brilliant raconteur in Japanese, and times where you seem like a

complete idiot. It is doubtful that either is the “true” picture, but the

cycle also seems to be a fact of life, and so it is best to just accept it,

and keep studying away all the same. You

will

learn, and you

will

find that the rewards are worth the effort.

Study resources

Japanese for College Students

, Basic: Vols. 1–3,International

Christian University. Text: US$24 Tapes: US$50.

Japanese for Busy People

, Vols. 1–3, tapes and CDs available.

Association for Japanese Language Teaching.

Remembering the Kanji, I and II, A Complete Course on How Not to

Forget the Meaning and Writing of Japanese Characters

and

Systematic Guide to Reading Japanese

. James W. Heisig, Japan

Publications Trading Co. US$35 and $37 respectively.

Integrated Spoken Japanese Vols. I and II

. Kenneth D. Butler and

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Mizutani Osamu. Inter-University Center for Japanese Language

Studies. ¥3400 each, tapes available. (American and Canadian

university-approved advanced-level text.)

Online resources

Japanese On-line

http://www.japanese-online.com

A range of useful facilities including Japanese lessons and an

online J-E/E-J dictionary.

Jeffrey's Japanese/English Dictionary Gateway

http://www.omron.co.jp/cgi-bin/j-e/. Allows you to view output in

either romaji or kanji and kana. Can convert from English to

Japanese and vice versa.

Japanese Input Method Editor

http://www.microsoft.com or http://www.netscape.com

Language support packs are available for free download for use

with Microsoft and Netscape web browsers. The Microsoft

package allows you to type Japanese within Explorer

and

Outlook Express. The freeware allows you to write and receive

e-mails in Japanese.

Alternative Dictionary

: http://www.notam.uio. no/~hcholm/altlang

Insult your colleagues in their mother tongue!

J-Links

http://www.notam.uio.no/~hcholm/

A links bank of information about Japan in English.

**Note from the Project Manager: Having studied Japanese and Chinese

together for the past four years (because I am mad!), my tips are to try a little

every day, get drunk in the bar with the locals (often!) and just keep at it. For

Japanese Kanji, I have used many different approaches in quickly

finding a

character that is annoying the hell out of you. The best book that I have found is

“The Kodansha Kanji Learner’s Dictionary by Jack Halpern,

ISBN4-7700-2855-5 (3,900 Yen). My electronic dictionary is now gathering

dust.**

The Japanese Language Proficiency Test

The Japanese Language Proficiency Test is one of the most widely

known tests to evaluate and certify the language proficiency of

learners of the Japanese language. Completely multiple choice and

computer scored, it is held every year on the first Sunday in December,

in Japan and thirty-eight countries around the world. Offered at

four levels, the exam has three sections: writing and vocabulary,

listening comprehension, and reading comprehension and grammar.

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Level 1 high-level grammar, 2,000 kanji, and 10,000 words

Level 2 high-level grammar, 1,000 kanji, and 6,000 words

Level 3 basic grammar, 300

kanji and 1,500 words

Level 4 basic grammar, 100 kanji and 800 words

The passing score for levels 2-4 is 60%, but for level 1, 70%. At every

level, you must pass each section in order to pass the test.

Applications are available from early August to mid-September, at

major bookstores. If there are no major bookstores in your area, you

may request an application through the mail by calling Daigaku

Tsushin at (03) 3291-3573. The application costs ¥486, and the exam

costs ¥5,200. The application deadline is mid-September at the very

latest.

Testing locations include Sapporo, Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka,

Kobe, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, and other major cities in Japan.

http://www.aiej.or.jp

Taking the JLPT overseas

Outside Japan, the application process and costs vary from

country to country. Most JET participant countries have at least one

venue for the exam. Some contact information is listed below. For

more information on taking the JLPT overseas, contact a Japanese

consulate in your country.

Sydney (61) 2-9957-5322 http://www.jpf.org.au/slc/

Toronto (1) 416-966-1600 http://www.japanfoundationcanada.org

Paris (33) 1-44-37-95-00 http://www.mcjp.asso.fr

Koln (49) 221-940-5580 http://www.jki.de

London (44) 207-499-4726 http://www.soas.ac.uk/Centres/Japan/

Los Angeles (1) 310-449-0027 http://www.jflalc.org

New York (1) 212-489-0299 http://www.jfny.org

Preparing for the JLPT

Start your preparations early in the summer before you even

apply for the exam. Take a preparatory course through a language

college if possible. Visit a major bookstore and purchase copies of past

exams (which come complete with answers and a tape of the listening

comprehension section) with which to revise.

If you stringently time yourself as you do the questions, as if you

were doing the actual exam, using copies of past exams disciplines you

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to be aware of time limits. No matter what level they are attempting,

most examinees declare that they can get the correct answers—it just

takes time. You will

not

have time during the actual exam. Get

used to it.

The Japanese Language Proficiency Test—Questions and Correct

Answers

. Bonjinsha. ¥1200.

Preparation and Strategy: Practice Questions for the JLPT.

ALC

Press Japanese Textbook Series. ¥1480.

The Preparatory Course for the JLPT.

UNICOM, ¥1980.

A Dictionary of Japanese Grammar

. The Japan Times, available at

beginner and intermediate levels, ¥3700.

Jetro Business Japanese Test

The Japan External Trade Organisation, together with the

support of more than 600 companies in Japan, developed this test to

help you objectively assess your business language proficiency in

reading, writing and speaking to work in Japan or for Japanese

companies.

To be eligible to take the test, you must be a non-native speaker

of Japanese. The test has two parts, the Listening and Reading

Comprehension Test and the Oral Communication Test (JOCT).

More than one level of the test can be taken on the same day, and the

test is administered at various sites throughout the world.

The JETRO Oral Communication Test (JOCT) measures and

evaluates communication skills. You must pass Level 1 of the

Listening and Reading Comprehension Test before taking the JOCT.

It is administered in Tokyo three months after the Listening and

Reading Comprehension Test.

The listening and reading comprehension test

Level 3

The candidate should have basic listening and reading skills

suitable for simple circumstances and daily situations in a business

and social environment. You should be able to read simple

documents, messages and signs. You should partially understand

the special vocabulary and expressions of business, including the use

of different levels of politeness. You should partially understand

Japanese business customs and practices. Fee: ¥5,500

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Level 2

The candidate should be able to understand the main points of

dialogue spoken during company and outside meetings, negotiations,

and telephone calls, and should also be familiar with the basics of

honorific language. You should be able to comprehend the main

points of company and general business documents, as well as the

main points of general and economic news on television and radio, and

basic Japanese business customs. Fee: ¥5,500

Level 1

The candidate should fully understand dialogue spoken during

company and outside meetings, negotiations, and telephone calls, and

must be competent at using honorific language at its various levels.

You should also fully comprehend company and general business

documents, in addition to general and economic news on television

and radio. You must have complete familiarity with Japanese

business customs. Fee: ¥6,000

Registration

The test is held during the first week in June. Applications are

accepted from February to early April. Application forms can be

requested from the JETRO Office in the city where you wish to sit the

test.

JETRO Tokyo Headquarters

International Communication Dept. JETRO Test Secretariat

2-5 Toranomon 2-chome, Minato-ku Tokyo 105-8466

Tel: (03) 3587-1143 Fax: (03) 5563-2857

JETRO Osaka

Bingo-machi Nomura Bldg., 1-8 Bingo-machi 2-chome, Chuo-ku

Osaka-shi, Osaka 541-0051 Tel: (06) 6203-3603 Fax: (06) 6222-5675

JETRO Niigata

Ebara Niigata Bldg., 5F 16-4 Shinko-cho Niigata-shi, Niigata

950-0965

Tel: (025) 284-6991 Fax: (025) 284-7910

JETRO Nagoya

Nishiki SIS Bldg., 1F 3-10-33 Nishiki Naka-ku Nagoya-shi,

Aichi-ken 460-0003 Tel: (052) 211-4517 Fax: (052) 202-0750

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JETRO Hokkaido

Sapporo MN Bldg., 5F Nishi 3-chome Kita 1-jo, Chuo-ku Sapporo-shi,

Hokkaido 060-0001 Tel: (011) 261-7434 Fax: (011) 221-0973

JETRO Fukuoka

El Gala Bldg., 7F 1-4-2, Tenjin, Chuo-ku Fukuoka-shi,

Fukuoka 810-0001 Tel: (092) 741-8783 Fax: (092) 714-0709

Locations of test centres world-wide

Test centres are located in Australia (Sydney), USA (Atlanta,

Chicago, Honolulu, Los Angeles, New York, Salt Lake City), Canada

(Toronto, Vancouver), the United Kingdom (Sheffield, London),

Ireland (Dublin), and Germany (Bochum). For further information

and addresses for these and other JETRO offices worldwide visit the

JETRO website. http://www.jetro.go.jp

The test of practical Japanese (J-Test)

The J-Test was introduced in 1991 as a test for conducting

objective measurement of the Japanese language proficiency of

non-Japanese. Unlike the pass/fail system used by the JLPT and

JETRO, the J-Test gives you a numerical score out of 1000. With

this test you have the benefit of knowing approximately where you

stand in current proficiency level.

A computer scores the J-test. All participants are mailed a

"Report Card" as certification of their Japanese proficiency, along with

reference materials. The general yardsticks for test scores are 400 to

700 points for Japanese language school students, and 750 to 900

points for university students. For entrance to university the

benchmark range is 700 to 800 points, and for gaining employment at

Japanese companies, 850 to 900 points.

Level A-D (intermediate-advanced) ¥2,100

Based on a maximum score of 1,000 points (listening

comprehension 500 points, reading comprehension/writing 500 points),

scores are used to rank proficiency from A through D. Because the

level of difficulty is equal for each test, by repeating the test it is

possible to monitor improvements in your Japanese proficiency.

Those scoring 500 points or more are issued certificates of recognition.

The listening comprehension section takes 45 minutes and the

reading comprehension/writing section, 80 minutes.

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•

A Class

(900 points): Interpreter level

•

Secondary A Class

(850 points)

•

B Class

(800 points)

•

Secondary B Class

(700 points) = Level 1 of the JLPT

•

C Class

(600 points): = Level 2 of the JLPT

•

D Class

(500 points): Japanese used by overseas employees level

Level E-F (elementary) ¥1,500

An elementary level test is offered as a means of testing those

learning or completing studies of elementary Japanese. The listening

comprehension section is 25 minutes long, and the reading

comprehension/writing section is 60 minutes long.

Based on a

maximum score of 500 points, (listening comprehension, 200 points,

reading comprehension/writing, 300 points), proficiency is ranked as

one of two classes. (There are no designated classes for scores of less

than 300 points.)

•

E Class

(350 points): Equivalent to Level 3 of the JLPT

•

F Class

(300 points): Equivalent to Level 4 of the JLPT

When and how to apply

Tests are held publicly each year in January, April, June,

September, and November. Test sites include Sapporo, Sendai,

Tokyo, Niigata, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Fukuoka, and Okinawa,

among other places. If you can find five or more people interested in

taking the examination and have a school, company, or cultural centre

willing to administer it for you, you can apply to write it anytime as a

group. Application information and past examinations can be

acquired by contacting the following location:

Association for Testing Japanese / J. Test Office

Tsujisawa Building, 1-57-8 Higashi-Nakano Nakano-ku, Tokyo

164-0003

Tel: (03) 3368-8106 Fax: (03) 3368-8108 Email: jtest1@org.jtest.org

Website: http://www.jtest.org/jtest

Zen Buddhist Schools

Josh Rhodes was a third year ALT in Izumi, Kagoshima-ken, and an

Associate Editor of this book.

Throw a little peace and harmony into your life and visit one of

the many Buddhist temples that offer Zazen instruction. You can

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usually stay at inns located within the temple grounds and most

sessions are open to anyone wishing to participate. The fees are

usually comparable to a business hotel and include meals.

Participation in morning and evening sessions is mandatory and help

with daily cleaning is expected. Three- to four-day retreats for

English speakers are also available from time to time. A

comprehensive list of Zen Buddhist temples throughout the world that

can be found at http:// www.dharmanet.org/infowebz.html

Ida Ryogokudo Zazen Dojo 5-11-20 Minami Yawata, Ichikawa-shi, Chiba-ken 272

Tel: (0473) 79-1596 Fax: (0473) 78-6232 Email: dsangha@gol.com

Website: www.windbell.com/dsangha.html

Holds up to 11 people in

individual rooms. The Dojo also houses a large Zazen Hall and

Lecture Hall, a library, and a communal kitchen and dining room.

Zazen, practice four times per day. Fees are ¥2,000 per day for the

first month, and then ¥40,000 per month thereafter.

Toshoji International Zen Center4-5-18 Yutaka Shinagawa-ku Tokyo 142-0042 Tel:

(03) 3781-4235 Fax:(03) 3781-6168 Email: toshoj[email protected]foweb.ne.jp

Website: http://village.infoweb.or.jp/~fwgc8522/

Eight rooms for men

and three for women. Free sutra chanting sessions daily except

Sunday. Free Zen training Saturdays. Full-time Zen training

¥3,000 per day. Accommodation fees total ¥30,000 per month.

Ichibata Yakushi Buddhist Temple866 Kozakai-cho, Hirata-shi, Shimane-ken

699-0074Tel: (0853) 67-0111 Fax: (0853) 67-0115 Email: [email protected]

Website: http://ichibata.org

Located on a 200-meter mountain in the middle of Shimane peninsula,

the temple offers free sessions daily in the morning and evening. All

lectures are held in Japanese, and the accommodations cost ¥5,900

per night.

TEFL Qualification

Louise Elliott was an ALT in Kanazawa, Ishikawa-ken

If you are considering further work in teaching English, but have

no formal qualification, get one that gives you access to any job from

Borneo to Brazil. The world EFL market is in desperate need of

teachers. Those with a well-known initial teaching qualification will

have their choice of jobs. Make sure your teaching certificate offers

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at least 100 hours of practical training, and teaching practice with

‘real’ students. Some institutions may insist that their own courses

and qualifications are valid worldwide, and while this may be true,

the most respected qualifications internationally are the

RSA/Cambridge CELTA, and Cert. TESOL by Trinity College, London.

They are offered in 250 centres in over 40 countries. The application

process often entails you write an exam.

CELTA

—Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults. A

minimum of 114 hours and may be taken part-time or full time. Full

time courses are normally intensive over four weeks and part time

courses vary from four or five months to a year. Usually requires

applicants to hold a degree.

http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/celta/index.cfm

CELTYL

—Certificate in English Language Teaching to Young

Learners in Language Schools. Designed for candidates who wish to

develop their knowledge and skills in teaching one of the following age

groups: 5-10, 8-13, or 11-16.

http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/celtyl/index.cfm

Trinity College London

89 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TP, UK

Tel: (44) 207-820-6100 Fax: (44) 207-820-6161

Email: brian@trinitycollege.co.uk

http://www.trinitycollege.co.uk

http://www.tlispain.com/teflcourses.htm

The British Council Teaching Centre, Tokyo

http://www.uknow.or.jp/bc/fs_english_e.htm

E-mail sheena.palmer@britishcouncil.or.jp

Further Qualifications

If your previous TEFL training concentrated on the practical

aspects of EFL/ESL, you may prefer to study the theoretical aspects

through a master’s degree. For university posts worldwide, and in

North America, a master’s degree in either TESOL or Applied

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Linguistics is the standard professional qualification and is often

taken as an initial training course.

There appears to be a shortage of RSA/Trinity diploma holders in

the private sector in Europe, Australia and New Zealand, where it is

definitely the preferred high-level qualification.

DELTA

—Diploma in English Language Teaching to Adults. The

diploma is intended for teachers who have a minimum of two years

full-time (1200 hours) teaching experience of ELT to adults within the

past five years. It can be studied full-time (approximately eight

weeks), part-time (one year) or by distance learning, with the teaching

component (hopefully) taking place in your own country. The exam

consists of practical, oral, and written components, with exams

generally held twice a year.

http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/delta/index.cfm

http://www.thedistancedelta.com

Applying for graduate studies

Get organized!

Allison Kolody is a former ALT from Nagano-ken and a weathered veteran of

J&B. She has been Project Manager and Chief Editor, as well as a

contributor.

When I applied to do graduate studies from this side of the

Pacific Ocean, the paperwork, and international phone calls, and

mailings were enough to make me wonder if higher education was

really worth the hassle. If your post-JET destiny lies in graduate

school and you really want a good program waiting for you as soon as

you return home you had better start the application process from

Japan very early.

Application packages

Many schools now offer online applications. If it is not possible to

apply online, leave more time than you think is necessary for

applications to arrive by mail. It seemingly took forever for my

application packages to arrive, much longer than it ever took for

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anything from my friends and family back home to arrive.

Universities are notoriously slow.

Tests

If your chosen school/faculty requires a standardized test, like the

GRE or LSAT, you can take prep courses and write the exam in Japan

at select locations. Be aware that some exams can be done at only

certain times throughout the year. Others, such as the new

computerized GMAT can be written at anytime. Study guides can be

ordered online or can be picked up at major bookstores throughout

Japan. It is even possible to register for your exam and take practice

tests over the Internet.

Useful links

http://www.gre.org (for the GRE)

http://www.lsat.org

(for the LSAT)

http://www.ets.org

This is the website of Educational Testing

Service, the organization that designs and administers standardized

tests, including the GRE and GMAT.

Transcripts

It helps considerably to have a supply of blank cheques on hand.

Order a student’s copy for yourself and make photocopies to send to

the people who will be writing recommendation letters for you.

Letters of recommendation

Once I had decided on the professors I wanted to ask to write

letters of recommendation for me, I sent emails re-introducing myself

and outlining what I had been doing for the past couple years. I told

them that I planned on applying to grad school and mentioned that I

would be calling sometime soon to formally ask if they would write a

letter for me.

The “warning email” is a good approach. When it comes time to

speak to your potential referees, they will have had time to figure out

who you are and whether or not they are able to help you. Email alone,

however, is not enough. International calls are a bit of an expense and

a hassle given time differences, but they show motivation, sincerity,

and allow you to reconnect with someone you may not have been in

contact with for a number of years. My statistics professors once told

my class that the more information your professor has about you, your

work and your life, the more personal and therefore more effective

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your letter of recommendation will be. He recommended the following

items be provided:

•

Photocopy of your transcript—

So he or she can see how you fared

in your coursework.

•

Samples of work—

One of my professors wanted to see some of my

papers so she could re-familiarize herself with my work, as well

as include in her letter that I was “articulate.”

•

Curriculum Vitae—

A succinct way to let him or her know where

you have been, what you have been doing and what skills you

have acquired.

•

Photograph

—To put a face to a name.

•

Anything else that may be relevant

Unless you are a highly dedicated academic, old term papers were

likely not among the things that you brought over to Japan with you. I

was lucky in that I knew I was going to apply to grad schools. On a

trip home, I dug out my papers, organized them, made photocopies,

and put them in an easy-to-find location. When I needed them

forwarded to someone, I had my family locate them and send them off.

Of course, this may not be possible for many people. Anticipate what

you will need and figure out how to deal with it. Anything is possible.

In addition to standardized tests, transcripts, and letter of

recommendation, other requirements in applying to graduate schools

may include portfolios, or interviews, or both. Again, anticipate what

you will need and allow extra time. Remember that everything done

from overseas takes twice as long as it would at home.

International Scholarships

The commonwealth scholarship

This scholarship is available to international students of high

intellectual promises who are citizens of Commonwealth nations, or

protected British nationals, and under the age of thirty-five. Program

details vary according to the country offering the award, but in

general the scholarship is open for postgraduate degree programs in

any area of study, and is tenable for up to three years. The award

includes return airfare, a monthly stipend, university fees, a book and

study apparatus allowance, and travel study finances. In some cases

allowances are awarded for children or spouses. Applications are

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made to the Commonwealth Scholarship Agency in the country where

the applicant has permanent residence.

For a list of Scholarship Agencies throughout the Commonwealth,

consult the Association of Commonwealth Universities website

http://www.acu.ac.uk

The Monbugakusho (MEXT) scholarships

These are the crème de la crème of scholarships available to

students who wish to pursue their studies at national universities

throughout Japan. From the available scholarships those that are of

potential interest to JETs include Research Scholarships at the

graduate level open to candidates under the age of 35, Japanese

Language and Culture Scholarships for undergrads in Japanese

studies programs, open to candidates under 29 years of age and

Teacher-Training Scholarships for experienced teachers under the age

of 35.

Applications abroad can be made in two different ways, either

through Japanese diplomatic missions in your home countries (Japan

currently recruits candidates in 140 countries) or through universities

that have established exchange programs with Japanese national

universities. The types of scholarships available differ from country to

country so if you choose to apply through a diplomatic mission,

consult the Monbusho Scholarship co-ordinators at the Information

and Culture section in the Japanese Embassy of your country to find

out which ones are open for competition.

Applications for Research scholarships are generally accepted by

from March through May each year, though some regional variation

does exist. Screening then occurs and by October successful applicants

are recommended to the

Monbugakusho

. The selection results are

usually announced in January and the scholars leave for Japan after

April. The Research award is tenable for two years.

Applications for the Japanese Language and Culture or

Teacher-training scholarships are also usually accepted from March

through May each year, with screening occurring at the same time.

Successful candidates are recommended to the

Monbugakusho

by May.

The final results are announced in July and scholars leave for Japan

in October. Again there is some variation to this schedule, some

departures occur in April. The Teacher Trainer awards are tenable

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for two years and the Language and Culture scholarship is tenable for

one year.

To be eligible to apply for the Teacher-Trainer scholarship you

must hold at least a Bachelor’s degree and you must have worked for

at least five years at elementary or secondary education level or at a

teacher-training institute. College professors are not eligible.

If you are enrolled in a university that has an exchange program

with a national university in Japan, you may be eligible to apply for

the Research or Japanese Language and Culture scholarships through

your university. In this process, candidates are initially screened by

their university and then recommended to the

Monbugakusho

for a

final screening.

International students enrolled in graduate degree programs in

Japan, (including those admitted for the coming year), and

international students in their third year of an undergraduate degree

program in Japan are eligible to apply for the Research Scholarships.

Candidates from among international students are chosen by the

universities that they attend. The universities then recommend the

candidates to the

Monbugakusho

All candidates must be mentally and physically sound, and be

willing to study Japanese language. Japanese language ability is not

a requirement for the Research scholarship and the areas of study for

this particular award are not limited to Japanese culture or language.

Military personnel and spouses of current

Monbugakusho

scholars are

ineligible to apply for the scholarships.

In order to successfully earn a research scholarship, candidates

must supply a letter of acceptance from a professor in the graduate

department at a Japanese university where they would like to do

their studies. The letter helps the

Monbugakusho

with placement of

their candidates as they search for supervisors who share similar

research interests to the scholarship awardees. Additionally the

Japanese government would like to encourage greater communication

between Japanese and foreign academics. Potential applicants are

strongly encouraged to establish contacts with Japanese academics in

their field well in advance of any plans to apply for the Research

Scholarship.

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The Japanese government provides return airfare, school fees, an

arrival allowance of ¥25,000, and usually, cheap student housing or a

housing subsidy from between ¥9,000 to ¥12,000 a month. Both the

Research Scholarship and Teacher-Trainer Scholarship award a

monthly stipend of ¥184,000, whereas the Language and Culture

scholarship awards a monthly stipend of ¥142,500. Field study

allowances for the Research Scholarship may also be available.

Further information

For information on national universities that accept

Monbugakusho

scholars, consult the catalogues available at the

Information and Culture section of the Japanese Embassy.

http://www.studyjapan.go.jp/en/index.html

http://www.aiej.or.jp

http://www.monbu.go.jp/emindex.html

http://www.monbushoscholars-uk.net

UNESCO

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

(UNESCO) through its sister organization The International Bureau

of Education, publishes

Study Abroad/ Etudes an L’etranger/Estudios

en el Extranjero

which provides information on 200,000 education

related scholarships and courses worldwide.

IBE

Case postale 199, 1211 Geneve 20, Suisse/Switzerland

Tel: 41-22-918-7800 Email: doc.centre@ibe.unesco.org

http://www.ibe.unesco.org

Schools & Scholarships

Australia

The following is a list of postgraduate courses, currently offered

at Australian tertiary institutions in the areas of Japanese, Teaching

English as a Foreign/Second Language and Teaching Languages other

than English. For a more comprehensive listing of universities and

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courses, visit the Australian Resource Library at the Australian

Embassy and see the collection of university handbooks, which have

detailed information about individual courses and programmes. The

Career Resource Centres located throughout Australia also have a

wide range of information on education in Australia. See

http://www.detya.gov.au

for a listing of Australian university

homepages.

Queens land

Griffith University

Nathan, QLD 4111 Tel: (07) 3875-6754 Fax: (07) 3875-6766

http://www.gu.edu.au

Grad Certificate in Language Teaching–JP

International Education Directorate, The University of Queensland

St. Lucia, QLD 4072 Tel: (07) 3365-1960 Fax: (07) 3365-1794

Email: IEDenquiries@admin.uq.edu.au

Website: http://www.uq.edu.au

GC, Post Grad Diploma, MPhil in JP; Gr.Dip, MA, DLit in ED

Bond University

Gold Coast, QLD 4229 Tel: (07) 5595-2651 Fax: (07) 5595-2696

Email: bueli@bond.edu.au

Website:

http://www.englishinaustralia.com

Gr.Dipl Applied Linguistics; Gr.Dip., MA in Computer Enhanced

Language Learning

Queens land University of Technology

Victoria Park Road, Kelvin Grove, Brisbane, QLD 4059

Tel: (07) 3864-2000 Fax: (07) 3864-3984

E-mail: Admissions.en[email protected]du.au

Website: http://www.qut.edu.au

Gr.Dip in ED: Primary/Secondary; GC, MEd in ED (TESOL)

New South Wales

Australian Catholic University

International Education Office, GPO Box 968, North Sydney,

NSW 2059 Tel: (02) 9739-2092 Fax: (02) 9739-2001

Email: international@acu.edu.au

Website: http://www.acu.edu.au

GC in TESOL

Charles Sturt University

Wagga Wagga, NSW 2678 Tel: (02) 6933-2660 Fax: (02) 6933-2799

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Email: inquiry@csu.edu.au Website: http://www.csu.edu.au

GC in Business JP; GC in TESOL, LOTE (language other than

English)

University of New England

Armidale, NSW 2351 Tel: (02) 6773-3192 Fax: (02) 6773-3325

Email: ipo@metz.une.edu.au

Website: http://www.une.edu.au

GC, GD in AS; GD in Multicultural Ed., ED

University of New South Wales

Sydney, NSW 2052 Tel: (02) 385-3078 Fax: (02) 313-7382

MA, PhD in JP; GC, GD in TESOL, JP Teacher Training

The University of NSW Institute of Languages

Sydney, NSW 2052 Tel: (02) 9385-0339 Fax: (02) 9399-5420

Email: Institute.languages@unsw.edu.au

http://www.lang.unsw.edu.au

Macquaire University Sydney

Department of Linguistics, NSW 2109 Tel: (02) 850-8740

Fax: (02) 850-9199 Email: linpgo@ling.mq.edu.au

http://www.ling.mq.edu.au

D, MA in Applied Linguistics (TESOL)

University of Technology, Sydney

PO Box 123, Broadway, NSW 2007 Tel: (02) 9514-1531

Fax: (02) 9514-1530 Email: intlprogr[email protected].au

http://www.uts.edu.au

GC, GD, MA in TESOL

University of Sydney

Sydney, NSW 2006 Tel: (02) 9351-4079 Fax: (02) 9351-4013

Email: in[email protected]syd.edu.au

Website: http://www.usyd.edu.au

GD in JP, TEFL

University of W. Sydney, Nepean

PO Box 10, Kingswood, NSW 2747 Tel: (02) 9685-9297

Fax: (02) 9685-9298 Email: international@uws.edu.au

http://www.nepean.uws.edu.au

GD in Language Teaching

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Western Australia

International Office, Curtin University of Technology

GPO Box U 1987 Perth, WA 6845 Tel: (08) 9266-7331

Fax: (08) 9266-2605 Email: international@cc.curtin.edu.au

http://www.curtin.edu.au

MA, PhD in JP

Murdoch International Murdoch University

South St, Murdoch, WA 6150 Tel: (08) 9360-2756 Fax: (08) 9360-5090

Email: admit@murdoch.edu.au

Website: http://www.murdoch.edu.au

MPhil, PhD in JP

Edith Cowan University

Pearson St., Churchlands, WA 6018 Tel: (092) 73-8499

Fax: (092) 73-8732 Website: http://www.ecu.edu.au

GC, MEd, PhD in TESOL

Tasmania

University of Tasmania, International Admissions and Exchanges

GPO Box 252-38, Hobart Tasmania, 7001 Tel: (03) 6226-2706

Fax: (03) 6226-7862 E-mail: International.Of[email protected].au

http://www.international.utas.edu.au

GD, MA, PhD in Modern Languages

Northern territory

Northern Territory University

Darwin, NT 0909 Tel: (08) 8946-6004 Fax: (08) 8946-6644

GD in Applied Linguistics (TESOL)

Australian capital territory

Australian National University

Canberra City, ACT 0200 Tel: (02) 6249-5111 Fax: (02) 6249-5931

E-mail: info.ieo@anu.edu.au

Website: http://www.anu.edu.au/ieo

GD, MLit in EAS. Internationally regarded as one of the best East

Asian Studies departments in the world.

South Australia

University of Adelaide

North Terrace, Adelaide, SA 5005 Tel: (08) 303-4455 Fax: (08)

303-4401 http://www.adelaide.edu.au

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GC in Language ED; GC, GD in TESOL; M.ED

Victoria

Deakin University

Pigdons Rd., Geelong, VIC 3217 (Campuses also in Melbourne and

Warrnambool) Tel: (03) 5227-1100 Fax: (03) 5227-2001

Email: dconnect@deakin.edu.au

Website: http://www.deakin.edu.au

MA in JP; GD in Interpreting/ Translating, TESOL

Monash University

26 Sir John Monash Dr. Caulfield, VIC 3145 Tel: (03) 9903-1540

Fax: (03) 9903-1556 Email: melinda.stacey@adm.monash.edu.au

http://www.monash.edu.au

GD in Applied Linguistics, Business Communication; GD in Lang.

Acquisition

Swinburne University

John St., Hawthorn, VIC 3122

Tel: (03) 9214-8647 Fax: (03) 9818-3648 Email: isneng@swin.edu.au

Website: www.swin.edu.au

GD, MA in JP

Exchange program options

Japanese Studies Centre, Monash University,

Wellington Rd., Clayton, VIC 3168 Tel: (03) 9905-2260

Fax: (03) 9905-3874

Email: Japanesestudies.centre@arts.monash.edu.au

http:// www.arts.monash.edu.au/mai/jsc

TEFL courses

Australian TESOL Training Centre

PO Box 82, Bondi Junction, NSW 2022.

Tel: (02) 9389-0249 Fax: (02) 9389-7788

E-mail: enrol@ace.edu.au

Website: www.ace.edu.au/attc

RSA/Cambridge certificate courses offered monthly.

Insearch Language School

University of Technology Sydney PO Box K1206, NSW 2000

ten-week TEFL evening courses offered.

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Australian Centre for Languages

Science House, 157-161 Gloucester Street The Rocks, Sydney, NSW

2000

Tel: (61) 2-9252-3788 Fax: (61) 2-9252-3799

Email: enquiry@acl.edu.au http://www.acl.edu.au

Scholarships and grants

Australian National University, International Education Office

Subjects:

unrestricted.

Tenable

at Australian universities and

institutions.

Duration:

1 year initially, 2 year extensions available

Value

includes living allowance, may also include airfare and some

allowance for dependent children.

Open to

international master's

degree students proficient in English.

Applications

by September 30

Australian Vice-Chancellors' Committee, Commonwealth Scholarship and

Fellowship Plan, Australian European Awards Program

GPO Box 1142, Canberra, ACT 2601

Email: enquiries@avcc.edu.au

Website: http://www.avcc.edu.au

Subjects:

unrestricted.

Tenable

at Australian tertiary institutions.

Duration:

(a)

2 to 3 years (extension possible if justified),

(b)

months.

Value:

living allowance of $16,809, all compulsory fees and

health insurance, plus travel to and from Australia.

Open to:

(a)

graduate students from the UK, Canada, and New Zealand,

(b)

graduate students from various European countries (including France,

Germany, and Ireland).

Applications:

(a)

by June 30

for awards

tenable seven months later, through the Australian Embassy in

applicant's country;

(b)

by May 31

for awards tenable eight months

later, through the Australian Embassy in applicant's country.

Australian Research Council, Department of Employment, Education and Training

Youth Affairs Institutional Grants Section

PO Box 9880, Canberra, ACT 2601 Tel: (02) 6284-6600

Fax: (02) 6284-6601 Website: http://www.arc.edu.au

Subjects:

research.

Tenable

at Australian institutions of higher

education.

Duration:

master's degree, 2 years; PhD, 3 years (with

provision for extension).

Value:

tuition and health coverage.

Open to:

citizens of all overseas countries (excluding New Zealand).

Applications

to the registrar of the institution at which the applicant

proposes to study.

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Australia-Japan Foundation Studies Grant

This grant is for Australian citizens (or permanent residents of

Australia) who have not previously received it.

Publications

The Directory of Postgraduate Study

. Graduate House.

AU$40, post paid. The Graduate Connection, PO Box 172,

Balgowlah 2093 Email: coytep@deakin. edu.au

The Directory of Higher Education Sources.

Hobson. New Press.

Available at Australian Diplomatic Missions.

Canada

Entrance requirements into Canadian graduate schools vary

greatly from university to university and faculty to faculty. However,

an honours undergraduate degree is usually required for admission to

Master’s programs. While most programs do not require standardized

tests, there are some notable exceptions. A few programs require a

GRE no matter what school you apply to. Of course, professional

programs such as law require an LSAT. Admission to MBA

programs requires a GMAT.

The first semester of the school year runs from September to

December and the second from January to April. Most universities

offer spring and summer courses for the super-determined “I just

wanna get it over and done with” type. Distance education is gaining

popularity. Additionally, some schools offer cooperative education in

selected programs, combining formal education with full-time work.

Not convinced that you should study in Canada? Tuition fees

and the average total cost of one year of education (tuition plus living

expenses) are significantly lower than in the United States, the

United Kingdom, and Australia (AUCC, 1998). The Association of

Universities and Colleges of Canada (AUCC) is a valuable source of

information for prospective students. Their website,

http://www.aucc.ca,

has a particularly useful matching function.

Input your chosen program, degree level, and province, and it will

provide the names of schools that fit the criteria. There is also

information on education in Canada, scholarships, exchange programs

and links to all Canadian university web sites.

Only a small number of Canada’s universities are listed here.

There are many others that may suit your interests. Visit the AUCC

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website for links to all Canadian universities. The Canadian Embassy

in Tokyo is also a good source of information. You may also contact

the following organizations.

The Canadian Association of Graduate Schools

College of Graduate Studies & Research University of Saskatchewan

Room 50, Murray Bldg., 3 Campus Dr. Saskatoon SK, S7N 5A4

Tel: (306) 966-5751 Fax: (306) 966-5756

Email: Gradstudies@usask.ca

The Canadian Asian Studies Association, University of Montreal

C.P. 6128 Succursale Centre-Ville, Montreal QC, H3C 3J7

Tel: (514) 343-6569 Fax: (514) 343-7716

Email: denm@cetase.umontreal.ca

http://www.casa.umontreal.ca

British Columbia

The University of British Columbia, The Faculty of Graduate Studies

180-6371 Crescent Road, Vancouver BC, V6T 122

Tel: (604) 822-2935 Fax: (604) 822-5802

Email: graduate@interchange.ubc.ca

Website: http://www.ubc.ca

MA, PhD in AS, Ω, ED; Intensive JP Summer Courses (Contact

Directly through the Graduate Studies Office)

Simon Fraser University, David-See Lam Centre for International Communication

515 West Hastings St., Vancouver BC, V6B 5K3

Tel: (604) 291-5089 Fax: (604) 291-5112

Email:dlam-info@www.cic.sfu.ca

Website: www.cic.sfu.ca/index.html

MA in AS

Alberta

The University of Alberta

252 Administration Building Edmonton AB, T6G 2M7

Tel (780) 492-3111 Website: http://www.ualberta.ca

MA, Ph. D in EAS, or Japanese Lang. and Lit. B. Comm. Asian special

The Institute of Asia-Pacific Studies

Grant McEwan Community College, 10700 104

Ave. Edmonton AB,

T5J 4S2 Tel: (780) 497-5543 Fax: (780) 497-5314

Email: asiapac@gmcc.ab.ca/asiapacific

Website: http://www.gmcc.ab.ca

2-year Asia-Pacific Management Diploma

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Ontario

International MBA (IMBA), Schulich School of Business, York University

4700 Keele St. Toronto ON, M3J 1P3

Tel: (416) 736-5942 Fax: (416) 650-3552

Email: imba@schulich.yorku.ca

Website: http://www.yorku.ca/imba

Schulich School of Business at York University is Canada’s top

business school

(Canadian Business 2001).

The school’s IMBA

program includes an overseas study term, a work internship abroad,

foreign language study (including Japanese), and specialization in

Asia, Europe, or the Americas.

University of Toronto, School of Graduate Studies

63 St. George St., Toronto ON, M5A 4L8

Email: graduate.information@utoronto.ca

Website: http://www.utoronto.ca

MA, PhD in AS

Ontario Institute for Studies in Education of the University of Toronto

252 Bloor St. West Toronto ON, M5S 1V6

Website: http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/

MA, MEd, PhD in ED

Quebec

McGill University

945 Sherbrooke St. West Montreal QC, H3A 2T5

Tel: (514) 398-4455 Web Site: http://www.mcgill.ca

MA, PhD in EAS; MBA with concentration in EAS

Scholarships

The Paul Sargent Memorial Linguistic Scholarship Program

offers two scholarships of $12,000 tenable for two years of study to

students with previous exposure to an oriental language. Eligible

candidates must be Canadian with a bachelor’s degree in the

language concerned. http://www.aucc/en/programs/sargent.html

Publications

Awards for Study in Canada,

available from the Canadian Bureau for

International Education, 220 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1100,

Ottawa Ontario, K1P 5Z9, Tel: (613) 237-4820, Fax: (613) 237-1073

http://www.cbie.ca

Going to Canada To Study,

available from the Council of Ministers of

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Education Canada, 252 Bloor Street West, Suite 5-200, Toronto ON,

M5S 1V5, Tel: (416) 964-2551

Canadian University Distance Education Directory and The Directory

of Canadian Universities,

priced $45.00 in Canada, $49.00 in the USA

and $59.00 elsewhere; available from Elizabeth Clarke and Associates,

392 March Road Suite 231 Box 1, Kanata Ontario, K2K 2E1,

Tel: (613) 271-1095, Fax: (613) 599-7027, Email: clarkeassoc@igs.net

Internet resources

Canadian Bureau for International Education

http://www.cbie.ca

Canadian Information Centre for International Credentials

http://www.cmec.ca/cicic/indexe.htm

Natural Science and Engineering Research Council

http://www.nserc.ca

Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council

http://www.sshrc.ca

Canadian Education on the Web

http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/~mpress/eduweb.html

Second Language Education on the Web

http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/~aweinrib/sle

Vancouver English Centre

http://www.vec.bc.ca

Alberta Distance Education and Training

http://athabascau.ca/html/collab/adeta

Distance Learning British Columbia

http://www.learning.bc.ca/index.html

Calendar of University Distance Education Courses in the Atlantic

http://www.dal.ca/aau/calindex.htm

Distance Education Courses in Ontario

http://node.on.ca/courses

Intergovernmental On-line Information Kiosk

http://www.intergov.gc.ca/edu/index.html

Association of Canadian Community Colleges

http://www.accc.ca

Republic of Ireland

The Republic of Ireland has six universities, Trinity College being

the most famous. There are also a host of colleges throughout

Ireland, which provide a wide range of courses.

Central Applications Office, Tower House, Eglington Street, Galway,

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Tel: (091) 563318, 563269, Fax: (091) 562344. This association

provides information for prospective students and processes

applications for entry to universities and other academic institutions.

Dublin City University

Dublin 9 Tel: (01) 704-5566 Fax: (01) 836-0830

Email: registrars.office@dcu.ie

Website: http://www.dcu.ie

MA Cultural Studies and Communication, MA International Relations,

MA Translations Studies (Japanese)

University College Dublin

Belfield, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 706-7777 Fax: (01) 269-4409

Email: info@ucd.ie

Website: http://www.ucd.ie

UCD offers courses in Cert/HDip TEFL. The HDip lasts nine months

and requires two years of experience in TEFL teaching. The Cert

TEFL requires no experience and lasts a year. Both courses are

part-time evening courses.

University of Limerick

National Technological Park, Limerick Tel: (061) 333644 Fax: (061)

330316 Website: http://www.ul.ie

MBA; MA in ∆, JP

Trinity College

Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 677-2941 Fax: (01) 677-1698 Email: ilfilby@tcd.ie

http:// www.tcd.ie

MBA, MA International Peace Studies, Evening

courses in Japanese.

University of Cork

Cork, Ireland Tel: (021) 902043 Fax: (021) 903223

Email: info@langcent.ucc.ie

Website: http://www.ucc.ie

Japanese can be studied as a language option in non-language courses.

The university also offers TEFL courses.

University of Galway

University Road, Galway, Ireland Tel: (091) 524411

Email: pg[email protected].ie

Website: http://www.ucg.ie

Offers no courses in TEFL or Japanese but contact the university at

the address above for a list of other courses.

If there is sufficient interest, the following colleges may offer evening

courses in Japanese: St. Killian's Community School, Bray Coolmine

Community School, St. Patrick's College, in Maynooth, and Cork

Language Centre.

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Scholarships

International Section, Department of Education and Science

Marlborough St., Dublin 1, Tel: (01) 809-5029 Fax: (01) 874-1933

Subjects

: unrestricted.

Tenable:

at any university or higher institution

in Ireland.

Duration:

one academic year.

Value:

IR£2,600 per year, IR

£450 in summer school scholarships offered to Belgian, French,

Italian and Spanish students.

Open to:

(a)

students taking part in

bilateral programs between the government of Ireland and the

governments of Australia, Austria, Belgium, China, Denmark,

Finland, Greece, Spain, and Switzerland;

(b)

students taking part in

scholarship programs between the government of Ireland and the

governments of France, Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom;

(c)

students from Belgium, France, Italy, and Spain taking part in

summer school scholarship exchanges.

The University of Limerick

Tuition fees for the first year of registration in TEFL programs are

waived for students from the EC. EC students enrolled in other

programs are also exempt from tuition fees for TEFL courses.

Additional contacts

The Higher Education Authority, Marine House, Clannilliam Court,

Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661-2748 Fax: (01) 661-0492 Email: info@hea.ie

http://www.hea.ie

Irish Council for Overseas Students, 41 Morehampton Road, Dublin 4.

http://www.sivl.ie

National Council for Educational Awards, 26 Mountjoy Square,

Dublin 1

Japan

The following advice comes from Eric Stewart, a former JET from

Ishikawa-ken who after three years on the JET Programme went through the

ordeal of applying for a Monbusho award for postgraduate study in Japan.

American students who are interested in obtaining a Master’s or

doctorate in Japan should realize that their degree would not be given

the same status that would accompany a degree from a US university.

(I am unsure of how they are seen by other countries.)

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I have had several professors tell me that if one is serious about

getting a graduate degree, it is best to enroll first in a degree program

back home and then use a

Monbusho

award to do thesis research. If

you do the

Monbusho

without being in a US university to begin with,

they are unlikely to award you credit ex post facto.

Applications for graduate programs in Japan are submitted

between October and December for courses beginning in April. With

all the time involved in preparing application forms, as well as the

time required by guarantors to make all the necessary arrangements,

you should begin making your preparations six to eight months in

advance.

In order to enter a Master's program in Japan, you are required

to have completed 16 years of education and to have graduated from a

four-year university program, or be recognized as having academic

ability at this level. However, if you completed university in a

country where it is possible to graduate with less than 16 years of

education, you are qualified to enter graduate school in Japan

provided you are 22 years old, and have been registered as a

researcher, research student, etc., for at least one year.

For those thinking of going for a doctorate, you will need to have

completed a master's, or to be recognized as having academic ability

at this level or higher.

Basic requirements

In order to apply to a postgraduate program you will most likely

need the following: an application form, a certificate of personal data

obtained from your undergraduate university, your diploma,

university transcripts, a medical certificate, a research essay and a

summary from university, a letter of introduction from the head of

department or lecturer from your undergraduate university, a copy of

alien registration, certificate of permission to sit the entrance exam

(for applicants who are in other graduate schools or working), and a

photograph of yourself.

Some universities accept applicants to postgraduate studies based

on submitted documents alone, but most require students to sit

entrance examinations. Many programs require students to study as

kenkyusei

for a year before sitting the entrance exam.

Kenkyusei,

are usually selected based on submitted documents, but some schools

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require applicants to contact a supervising instructor to obtain

informal consent prior to admission. In this case, it is a good idea to

write a letter of intent to the instructor in question.

Graduate school entrance exams usually consist of document

screening, a short thesis, and oral questioning, as well as written tests

in Japanese, English, and special subjects. Be prepared for a rather

gruelling oral exam, where professors will take turns trying to tear

your thesis to shreds. While examination dates vary depending on

the school, most hold their graduate entrance exams from August to

October. Some, however, hold them in February and March. Should

you muck up the exam, you may want to consider other options,

unless you are into going

ronin

for a year and then trying again.

As a rule, degrees obtained in Japan will be recognized in your

home country, but it is probably a good idea to check before you enroll.

University fees usually run around ¥3,000,000 to ¥6,000,000 per year.

On the bright side, up to 80% of medical expenses may be reimbursed,

and if you are a student you get a discount on the national railways.

For a detailed listing of majors offered at the undergraduate and

postgraduate levels at universities throughout Japan, contact:

The Information Centre, Association of International Education, Japan

4-5-29 Komaba, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-8503 Tel: (03) 5454-5216 Fax:

(03) 5454-5236 Website: http://www.aiej.or.jp

The AIEJ website has an English version and gives an in-depth

indexing of all majors, as well as college and university numbers and

addresses.

Another useful publication from the Information Centre is

The

Student Guide to Japan

, which provides information regarding

applications, entrance requirements, visas, scholarships, and

resources to help you choose an appropriate institution

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Guarantors

If you are changing your visa to a student visa, you will need a

guarantor. In principal, guarantors must be Japanese nationals.

However, foreigners who have lived in Japan for more than 10 years

are also acceptable. In either case, your guarantor must have a

steady income, and in most cases must show proof of this upon

application.

Working

Officially, a student visa entitles you to work a maximum of four

hours a day. You may work eight hours a day during summer

holidays (usually July 1

to August 31

Information Services, The Student Exchange Division, Science and

International Affairs Bureau, Monbugakusho - 3-2-2 Kasumigaseki,

Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-6090

Sources of funding

There are many useful reference publications available for those

wishing to obtain scholarships to study in Japan. The most helpful is

AIEJ 1997 Scholarship Guide for International Students in Japan

This document lists about 200 private and city-sponsored scholarships

for foreign students. It is a gold mine of information.

Another useful document is the

Outline of the Student Exchange

System in Japan

, a Monbusho publication with lots of graphs and

statistics, but also containing some useful information. Get it from

the Student Exchange Division of Monbusho in Tokyo, 3-2-2

Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100, Tel: (03) 3581-4211 ext. 2625,

Fax: (03) 3592-1305.

A good source of reference for scholarships in Japan and around

the world is

Study Abroad,

published by UNESCO (see their address

under “international scholarships” in the TEFL qualification section).

This book, for ¥4,000, provides in-depth information regarding the

various financial awards and scholarships available to foreign

students in Japan. Most scholarships, however, will only cover a

portion of your expenses, with the average monthly stipend being

¥71,000.

Further scholarships can be obtained through local governments,

with aid covering not only tuition, but in many cases accommodation,

national health insurance, and transportation. Additionally,

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“Honours” scholarships for excellent academic achievement are

available, as well as “Peace and Friendship” scholarships. For these,

you should apply to your department once you have been granted

admission to the university.

Japanese private foundation scholarships, solicited from

particular countries or regions where the enterprise or foundation has

an interest, as well as educational institution scholarships provided

by the university itself, provide even more possibilities for those in

need of financial support. Fee waiving, usually of at least 30%, also

helps ease the burden somewhat.

The Matsumae International Foundation

Room No. 6-002 New Marunouchi Bldg.1-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku,

Tokyo 100-0005 Fax: (03) 3214-7613 Email: contact@matsumae-if.org

http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~mif/

Twenty International Foundation Fellowships are awarded every

year, with priority given to applicants in the fields of engineering,

medicine, and the natural sciences. The fellowship is tenable at any

institution in Japan and is open to all nationalities (Japanese

excluded) who have obtained a doctorate degree and who have over

two years of research experience or who are deemed to possess

equivalent qualifications by the screening board. Fellowships are

available for up to 12 months, with recipients receiving a monthly

allowance of ¥150,000, plus health insurance. Applications due by

July 31

, 2002; fellowships begin in April 2003.

Language

Those who wish to pursue preparatory courses in Japanese prior

to entering a graduate program should look into one of the following

options

• Week long courses are provided by

Gaimusho

(Ministry of Foreign

Affairs) for members of JETAA currently teaching or currently

pursuing certification to teach Japanese in the future. The

courses are offered in the summer (for members from the US,

Canada, Ireland, and the UK) and winter (for members from

Australia, NZ, China, Korea, Germany, and France). These

courses are completely free and competition is fierce. They require

ni-kyu

(second) level of the Japanese Language Proficiency Test,

or equivalent. Ms. Yabuki or Ms. Sueoka of the Second Cultural

Affairs Division at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Tel: (03)

3580-3532, Fax: (03) 3592-0156

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• Sophia University: Summer of Asian Studies program. There are

twelve courses, including introductory Japanese. The tuition and

registration fee is ¥150,000 for two courses (3 credits each).

Sophia University, Ichigaya Campus, 4 Yonbancho, Chiyoda-ku,

Tokyo 102-0081, Tel: (03) 3238-4090, Fax: (03) 3238-4091,

Email: c-takeda@hoffman.cc.sophia.ac.jp

Website: 133.12.40.67

• Japanese Language School of the International Student's

Institute. The Japanese Language School of the International

Student's Institute, 3-22-7 Kitashinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo

169-0074

• Some universities offer language courses for their foreign

students; so check with the university directly. Also, be sure to

read the beginning of this section, for more information on

summer Japanese language courses.

Other institutions

The International University of Japan

The Office of Student Recruitment, Yamato-machi, Niigata-ken

949-7277 Tel: (0257) 79-1105 Fax: (0257) 79-1188

Email: admqsir@iuj.ac.jp

Website: http://www.iuj.ac.jp

Consists of two graduate schools offering an MBA program and MA

programs in International Development and Asia Pacific International

Relations. All courses are taught entirely in English. It is now

possible to apply on-line.

McGill University, McGill MBA Japan

Room 327, Building 11, Sophia University, 7-1 Kioi-Cho, Chiyoda-ku,

Tokyo 102-8554 Tel/Fax: (03) 5215-1383

Email: mbajapan@management.mcgill.ca

http://www.management.mcgill.ca/programs/mbajapan

Through Sophia University, McGill University offers a 2-year MBA

program in International Business Management. The program is

structured to allow students to maintain full-time employment as

they study.

Other useful addresses

National Association of Special Training Schools of Japan

Shigaku Kaikan Bekkan, 4-2-25 Kudan-kita, Chiyoda-ku,

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Tokyo 164-0073 Tel: (03) 3230-4814

Japan Society for the Promotion of Science

5-3-1 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0083 Tel: (03) 3263-1732

Association for the Promotion of Japanese Language Education

2F Korin Bldg., 1-13-19 Kita-shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 169-0074

Tel: (03) 5386-0080

Japan International Training Cooperation Organization (JITCO)

3-11 Kanda, Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0062 Tel: (03)

5562-3525

Provides technical training.

Publications

Japanese Colleges and Universities

, Maruzen Co. Available for

reference at all Japanese embassies and consulates.

ABCs of Study in Japan and Student Guide to Japan,

AIEJ.

The Guide to Japanese Career and Vocational Schools,

Sampo Ltd.

Shihi Gaikokujin Ryugakusei no tame no Daigaku Nyugaku Annai

Daigaku Tsushin Co. Provides information in Japanese on entrance

examinations.

Japanese Language Institutes in Japan

, the Association for the

Promotion of Japanese Language Education. Provides a brief

introduction to various institutes. Available for reference at all

Japanese embassies and consulates.

New Zealand

The New Zealand academic year runs from January through

November, with university courses beginning in March.

Pre-enrolment for regular university courses takes place from

mid-December.

Correspondence courses are also available at certain institutions

(Massey University among others), and those interested in enrolling

usually apply by mid-January. Specific information regarding courses

and dates of registration may be obtained from any New Zealand

Embassy.

For anyone interested at studying at one of New Zealand's seven

universities, homepage listings can be found at the following

University of Otago-run site: http://cirdan.otago.ac.nz/web.nzlib.html

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Information about costs, the academic year, possible funding, etc., can

be found at http://www.nzeil.co.nz/

Massey University

Private Bag 11-222,Palmerston, North Auckland, NZ

Tel: (06) 350-6148 Fax: (06) 350-5698

Website: http://www.massey.ac.nz

MA in JP; MEd

Canterbury University

Private Bag 4800, Christchurch, NZ Tel: (03) 364-2966

Fax: (03) 364-2999 Website: http://www.canterbury.ac.nz

MA in JP

University of Auckland

Private Bag 92019 Auckland, NZ Tel: (09) 373-7999 Fax: (09) 373-7405

Email: enrol@auckland.ac.nz

Website: http://www.auckland.ac.nz

Dip in JP, Asian Studies; GDip in Lang. Teaching

Waikato University

Private Bag 3105, Hamilton,NZ Tel: (07) 838-4439 Fax: (07) 838-4269

Email: studyabr[email protected].nz

Website: http://www.waikato.ac.nz/international

MA in JP Linguistics

Victoria University

PO Box 600, Wellington, NZ Tel: (04) 463-5233 x 8013 Fax: (04)

463-5427

Email: enrolment-enquiries@vuw.ac.nz

Website: http://www.vuw.ac.nz

MA, PhD in JP; Dip, MA in TESOL

University of Otago

PO Box 56, Dunedin, NZ Tel: (03) 479-8247 Fax: (03) 479-7377

Email: external-relations@otago.ac.nz

Website: http://www.otago.ac.nz

MA, MLit, PhD in JP

TEFL

Auckland Language Centre

PO Box 105-035, Auckland, New Zealand

Tel: (64) 9-303-1962, Fax: (64) 9-307-9219

Email: info@akldlang.co.nz

Website: http://www.geosalc.co.nz

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Technical institutions

Application deadlines for technical institutions are in September.

Auckland Institute of Technology

Private Bag 92-006, Auckland, NZ

Tel: (09) 307-9909 Fax: (09) 307-9860

Email: coursein[email protected]z

Website: http://www.ait.ac.nz

2-year diploma/BA course in JP

Christchurch Polytechnic

PO Box 22-095, Christchurch, NZ

Tel: (03) 364-9651 Fax: (03) 379-1435 Website: http://www.chch.ac.nz

Two-year tourism course; intensive JP; BA in JP

Unitec Institute of Technology

PO Box 92-025, Auckland, NZ

Tel: (09) 815-4302 Fax: (09) 815-4301

Email:flittle@unitec.ac.nz

Website: http://www.unitec.ac.nz

Scholarships

See information on the Commonwealth Scholarship

Additional contacts

Ministry of Education

PO Box 1666, Wellington, NZ.

Email: communications@minedu.govt.nz

http://www.teachnz.govt.nz

New Zealand Vice-Chancellors Committee

Ann Rutledge, International Manager

PO Box 11-915 Wellington, NZ Direct Dial: (04) 801 8528

Phone: (04) 381-8508 Fax: (04) 381-8501

Email: internation[email protected].nz

Website: http://www.nzvcc.ac.nz

Brochure on studying in NZ

New Zealand University Students Association

Rowena Tun, Office Administrator

PO Box 10-191 Wellington, NZ Tel. (04) 498-2500 Fax: (04) 473-2391

http://www.students.org.nz

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New Zealand Education Trust, Education New Zealand

PO Box 10-500, Wellington, NZ

Tel: (04) 472-0788 Fax: (04) 471-2828

Email: sue.wadham@educationnz.org.nz

http://www.nzeil.co.nz/nzei.html

Publications

Education New Zealand 1991, and Handbook of Courses and Costs

New Zealand Education International. New Zealand Embassies and

Consulates

The United Kingdom: Higher Education in Britain

Tim Morey was a CIR in Aomori-shi

The joy of doing postgraduate work in Britain is threefold. First,

many British universities are top class research institutes, and have

been so for more than 600 years. Second, entry to a British university

is relatively easy—no standardised tests, no expensive exams.

You will need a good upper-second class in your undergraduate

degree (though occasionally a lower-second class degree is acceptable).

[For North American undergraduate degree holders, an upper-second

is basically a 3.0 GPA on a four-point scale.] Some universities insist

on an interview before awarding a place though an exception is

usually made for people living abroad. Non-native English speakers

have to reach the UCLES CPE standard of English proficiency for

many courses, although this varies according to the course and

institution.

Third, Britain is relatively cheap for foreign students. Tuition

for a humanities research degree is between £6,500 and £7,000 for

students outside the EC.A research science degree costs about £8,200

the average yearly living cost is about £5,800. Only Canada is

cheaper for Western countries.

There are three basic types of courses. A Postgraduate Diploma

is usually a nine-month taught course in subjects such as journalism

or languages. Master’s degrees are offered in most subjects as taught

courses. Taught master’s degrees (MA, MSc etc.) usually consist of

twelve months full-time study with a research thesis to be completed

within the year. MPhil and MLitt degrees are usually research

degrees and usually take about two years to complete though MPhil

are occasionally awarded for taught courses. A doctorate, normally a

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PhD or DPhil, is awarded after original research, and usually takes

three years (full-time) or five years (part- time) to complete.

Opportunities for making money as a student do exist in Britain,

though work visas are hard to come by. Aside from working in bars,

etc., on the sly, many departments offer undergraduate tutorial

teaching. Four hours a week of this would cover your rent and food.

It is also possible to do a joint PhD program in your home country

and the UK. This is quite easy to do if your home university has a

relationship with one in Britain.

The University of Wolverhampton runs an active map of British

university homepages. Simply click on the icon for the city and

college of your choice and it will take you to that homepage. This is

useful if you want to study in a certain geographical area. The website

also has useful links to sponsorship:

http:// www.scit.wlv.acuk/ukinfo/uk.map.html

Choosing your graduate program

Most academics “study up and work down,” so get the best

program at the best university that you can. You will need a research

topic in mind before you begin looking into the current research and

publications in your chosen field. It is very important not only to

choose a graduate department that conducts quality research in your

field, but also one that houses a professor who will be able to

supervise your work. Ask previous instructors with similar research

interests for information on the best departments, people, and

publications. On the web you can check the ratings for universities in

the UK at

The Times Good University Guide

http://www.the-times.co.uk/gug

, or visit the Research Assessment

Exercise.

The RAE gives official rankings for the quality of research being

conducted at each institution by subject.

http://www.hefce.ac.uk/Research/assessment/default.htm

The British Council http://www.educationuk.org

. Also has

The

Current Research in Britain

database available as a resource on

individual professors’ research interests.

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All university web sites in Britain can be found through the

Council’s web page. Check the graduate departments that you are

interested in for information on: current research activities and

publications; the size and profiles of the staff; facilities and academic

resources; the department’s links to other institutions and bodies;

application procedures and deadlines; entrance qualifications; cost

and length of the programs; and possibilities for funding - especially

research assistantships.

It is advisable to apply to several universities. After you have

looked over the web pages, contact the universities directly for

prospectuses, brochures and further information on research. Go over

all the information you receive thoroughly and read the publications

from the department staff who you anticipate working with. Check

The Times Higher Education Supplement, http://www.thesis.co.uk

find out if any of the professors you want to work under are offering

research assistantships.

Finally, prepare your research proposal. It should briefly

summarise what you intend to do, and it should be based on the

current research in your field. Make sure to leave yourself plenty of

time to apply long before any deadlines. Competition for funding is

fierce and it is often “the early bird who catches the worm.”

General information

The academic year in Britain begins in September with closing

dates for applications varying with each institution but generally at

least four months prior to the start of the course. For further

information on British postgraduate programs, get in touch with the

British Council Education Service at one of the following two

locations:

British Council Kyoto, Education Counselling Service

Kitashirakawa, Nishimachi 77, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto 606-8267

Tel: (075) 791-7151 Fax: (075) 791-7154 Inquiries M–F 10:00–18:00

http://www.britcoun.org

The British Council

Kagurazaka, 1-2 Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 162-0825

Tel: (03) 3235-8031/8042 Fax: (03) 3235- 5477

Inquiries, M–F 13:00–17:00 Library Hours 10:00–21:00

Email: ecsinfo@britishcouncil.or.jp

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Web Site: http://www.uknow.or.jp and http://www.educationuk.org and,

http://www.britishcouncil.org/where/index.htm

Internet resources

British Academy http://wwwbritac.ac.uk

Economic and Social Research Council http://www.esrc.ac.uk

Natural Environment Research Council http://www.nerc.ac.uk

The Royal Society (London) http://www.royalsoc.ac.uk

The Royal Society of Edinburgh http://www.royalsoced.org.uk

Scottish Education and Training http://www.educationukscotland.org

Higher Education and Research Opportunities in the UK (HERO)

http://www.hero.ac.uk

Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council

http://www.bbsrc.ac.uk

Recommended universities

The universities listed below are known for their excellence in

either education or Asian studies. The letters ‘R’ and ‘T’ stand for

“research course” and “taught course”, respectively.

Birmingham University

Edgebaston, Birmingham B15 2TT, Tel: (0121) 414-3344

Fax: (0121) 414-3971 http://www.bham.ac.uk

MPhil, PhD in AS (R); MA in AS (T); MA International Studies

(Contemporary Pacific Asia); MA Translation Studies

The Centre for English Language Studies at the University of

Birmingham, the home of COBUILD research, is widely regarded as

the leading postgraduate centre for English language teaching in

Europe. The department offers both campus-based and distance

learning Postgraduate Cert/Dip/MA in TEFL/TESL starting in

October and April each year. The distance learning courses can all be

done from your home in Japan except for one-week for the summer

seminar in Hiroshima during the certificate course. The certificate

takes a year to complete while the diploma takes two years. The MA is

awarded after completing the diploma and a dissertation.

University of Bristol

Senate House, Tyndal Avenue, Bristol, BS8 1TH, Tel: (0117) 928-7048

Fax: (0117) 929-3296 Email: Communication-Office@bristol.ac.uk

http://www.bris.ac.uk

MEd in TEFL (T) PT Japanese courses available

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University of Cambridge

Japan Research Centre, Faculty of Oriental Studies, Sidgwick Avenue,

Cambridge, CB3 9DA Tel: (01223) 335100/335106 Fax: (01223) 335110

Email: zhc20@cam.ac.uk

Website: http://www.cam.ac.uk

PhD in Oriental Studies (R); MPhil in Oriental Studies (T)

Cardiff University

Postgraduate Liaison Office, PO Box 921, Cardiff, CF1 3XQ

Tel: (029) 2087-4587 Fax: (029) 2087-4627

Email: cardiff-pg@cf.ac.uk

Website: http://www.cf.ac.uk

MPhil, PhD in JS (R); MA in Applied Ling.; D, MA in Journalism (T)

Durham University

Old Shire Hall, Durham, DH1 3H, Tel: (0191) 374-2925

Fax: (0191) 374-3740Email: Wendy.Duery@durham.ac.uk

http://www.dur.ac.uk

MA, MLitt, PhD in Chinese/JP (R); Post Grad.Dipl. in JP (T)

University of Edinburgh, Centre for Japanese Studies

8 Buccleuch Place, Edinburgh, EH8 9LW, Tel: (0131) 650-4227

Fax: (0131) 651-1258 Email: Margaret.G[email protected]k

http://www.ed.ac.uk

PhD in JS (R); MSc in JP. Evening classes in Japanese are available

for about £100 a term or £253 a year. Telephone (0131) 650-4227

Essex University, Contemporary Japan Centre

Colchester, C04 3SQ Tel: (01206) 87-3051 Fax: (01206) 87-3410

Email: ianj@essex.ac.uk

Website: http://www.essex.ac.uk

MA, PhD in JS (R); MA in JS (T); Dip/ Cert in TEFL

Essex offers a variety of courses on the sociology, politics, and

languages of East Asia. Taught courses include MA Sociology and

Government of Japan, MA Study of Contemporary Japan, MA Study

of Pacific Rim and Japan, and MA International Relations. Highly

recommended.

University of Leeds, Department of East Asian Studies

Leeds, LS2 9JT Tel: (0113) 233-3460 Fax: (0113) 233-6741

Email: EastAsian@leeds.ac.uk

Website: http://www.leeds.ac.uk

MA, DPhil, PhD in Chinese/JP (R), MA Asia Pacific Studies, Applied

Translation Studies

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Jayne Moon, School of Education, University of Leeds,

Leeds, LS2 9JT Tel: (0113) 233-4577 Fax: (0113) 233-4541

Email: J.P.Moon@education.leeds.ac.uk

http://education.leeds.ac.uk/~edu/home.html

University of Leicester

Higher Degrees Office, University Road Leicester, LEI 7RH

Tel: (0116) 252-2293/2298 Fax: (0116) 252-2447

Email: higherdegrees@le.ac.uk

Website: http://www.le.ac.uk

GC in TESOL; MA in Applied Ling. and (T)

University of London, School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS)

Thornhaugh St., Russell Square, London, WC1H 0XG

Tel: (020) 7637-2388 Fax: (020) 7436-3844 Email: study@soas.ac.uk

Website: http://www.soas.ac.uk

MPhil, PhD in EAS (R), MA in JP Applied Linguistics, Adult Lang, Ed.

TESOL (T) in conjunction with the London School of Economics SOAS

offers many different programs in Asian and African Area Studies, as

well as Japanese linguistics, and Japanese Religions. The worlds

leading centre for Asia and Africa studies.

University of Manchester, Greater Manchester Centre for Japanese Studies

University of Manchester, Manchester, M13 9QQ

Tel: (0161) 275-3255 Fax: (0161) 275-3354

Email: Japan.Centre@man.ac.uk

http://

www.man.ac.uk/MAN/JapanCentre/

D, MA in Applied Ling., International Relations (T); MEd, TESOL (T)

Centre for International Studies in Education, University of Newcastle upon

Tyne

Newcastle upon Tyne, NEI 7RU, Tel: (0191) 222-6377

Fax: (0191) 222-5691 E-mail: cise-education@ncl.ac.uk

http://www.ncl.ac.uk/~nciseedu/

MEd in TESOL; MA Linguistics for TESL, International Cultural

Exchange, International Studies; LLM International Trade

The University of Nottingham, School of Education

Nottingham, NG8 1BB Tel: (0115) 951-4543 Fax: (0115) 846-6600

Email: educationenquiries@nottingham.ac.uk

http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/education/

MA in ELT, ED (T)

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Oxford University, Oriental Institute

Pusey Lane. Oxford, OX1 2LE Tel: (0186) 527-8200 Fax: (0186)

527-8190

Email: orient@orinst.ox.ac.uk

Website: http://www.orinst.ox.ac.uk

MLitt, DPhil in Oriental Studies (R)

Centre for Applied Language Studies, University of Reading

Whiteknights, PO Box 241, Reading, RG6 6WB

Tel: (0118) 931-8511 Fax: (0118) 975-6506

Email: CALS@reading.ac.uk

Website: http://www.rdg.ac.uk

MA in TEFL (also by distance), D in TEFL

Sheffield University

Taught Graduate Admissions Office, 14 Favell Road, Sheffield, S10

2TN

Tel: (0114) 22-24178 Email: pg.admissions@sheffield.ac.uk

http://www.shef.ac.uk/~eas

The School of East Asian is the most prestigious faculty of its kind in

Europe. Distance Learning courses include Postgraduate C/D/MA in

Japanese Language and Society, and MA in Advanced Japanese

Studies. These courses are also offered full-time on campus. The

certificate and Diploma courses require no previous Japanese

language ability. Students with Level 3 of the Japanese Proficiency

Test can enrol in the master’s. For the MA in Advanced Japanese

Studies, students are required to have passed Level 2 of the

proficiency test. Also available on campus: MSc in East Asian

Business.

Stirling University, Scottish Centre for Japanese Studies

Stirling, Scotland, FK9 4LA Tel: (01786) 46-6080 Fax: (01786) 46-6088

Email: j.d.crump@stirling.ac.uk

Website:

http://www.stir.ac.uk/japanese/

MLitt, PhD in JS. Currently not offering any taught Japanese

programmes, though there is opportunity for research.

Sussex University

Postgraduate Admissions, Sussex House, Falmer, Brighton

Sussex, BN1 9RH Tel: (01273) 67-8412 Fax: (01273) 67-8335

Email: PG.Admissions@sussex.ac.uk

Website: http://www.susx.ac.uk

MLitt, PhD in JP; MPhil/DPhil in AS (R); MA in International

Relations

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Warwick University

Coventry, CV4 7AL Tel: (01203) 52-4585 Fax: (01203) 46-1606

Email: pgadmissions@admin.warwick.ac.uk

http://www.warwick.ac.uk

MA, MPhil, PhD. in ELT (R); D, MA in TESOL and Administration (T)

The University of York

The EFL Secretary, Language Teaching Centre

University of York, York, YO10 5DD, Tel: (01904) 432480

Fax: (01904) 432481 Email: efl@york.ac.uk

Distance learning, MA teaching English to young learners.

Japanese studies-other

The Japan Foundation Nihongo Centre

27 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7QT

Tel: (0207) 838-9955 Fax: (020) 7838-9966

Email: info@nihongocentre.org.uk

http://www.nihongocentre.org.uk

This is a support centre for teachers of Japanese throughout the UK.

It has an inset training programme, annual language-related grant

programmes, an advisory service, library, and resource centre. It also

offers school visits and summer refresher courses for secondary school

teachers. Information on adult education courses and private tutors

is also available.

The Japan Language Centre

27 Knightsbridge, London, W1X 7QT Tel: (0207) 838-9955

Publishes a list of Japanese language courses throughout Britain.

The Japanese Local Government Centre, London

Free Japanese classes at all levels for former JETs. Classes are held

in the CLAIR office at Whitehall. Space, however, is limited. For

more information, contact the centre directly at: (0207) 839-8500.

The School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London

Offers evening classes in Japanese and other Asian and African

languages. Classes generally have less than 12 people and are

usually 6:30–8:30pm on weekday evenings and 10:00am–12:30pm on

Saturday. Fees are from £195 a term (one class a week for three

months). Contact the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS),

University of London, Thornhaugh St., Russell Square, London,

WC1H 0XG Website: http://www.soas.ac.uk

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MBA in Europe

European Masters in Management (EAP),

A three-year course in management studies with each year spent

in a different country. In addition, you will undertake three

in-company placements lasting approximately 3 months in each

country. Those interested must take the European Admission Test

(EMAT) and go through a series of interviews. Test dates vary from

country to country. http://www.eap.net

EAP Paris -6 Avenue de la Porte de Champerret, 75838,

Paris, CEDEX 17 Tel: (33) 1-44-09-33-00 Email: drouach@eap.net

ESCP-EAP Graduate School of Management Oxford

12 Merton St. Oxford, OX1 4JH, UK Tel: (44) 1865-263205

Fax: (44) 1865-251960 Email: ukadmission@escp-eap.net

EAP Berlin -Europa Centre, Breitscheidplatz, 1000 Berlin 30,

Germany Tel: (49) 30-245-80-20 Fax: (49) 30-245-80-231

EAP Madrid- Arroyofresno 1, 28035 Madrid, Spain

Tel: (33) 1-386-25-11 Fax: (33) 1-373-92-29

Scholarships

University of London

Subjects:

Humanities and Social Sciences for taught master's degrees

Duration:

1 year.

Value:

£6,000 per year.

Open to:

candidates of all

nationalities with a first degree. Applications: by May 1

to the

Registrar

Marshall Aid Commemorative Commission, Association of Commonwealth

Universities

36 Gordon Square London, WC1H OPF

Tel: (020) 7380-6700 Email: info@acu.ac.uk

http://www.acu.ac.uk/marshall

Subjects:

any leading to the award of a British degree.

Tenable:

American graduates at British universities.

Duration:

2 academic

years.

Value:

approximately £16,500 per year.

Applications:

by October

in the year preceding the award. Applications and information

are available at British Embassies and Consulates across the United

States. Electronic application forms are available on the website.

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The Japan Foundation

17 Old Park Lane, London W1Y 3LG, Tel: 020-7499 4726

Japan Foundation Grant Programmes include a fellowship

programme for doctoral candidates.

Additional contacts

Arts and Humanities Research Board

10 Carlton House, London, SW1Y 5AH

Tel: (020) 7969-5256 Fax: (020) 7969-5413

Email: p.andrews@ahrb.ac.uk

Website: http://www.ahrb.ac.uk

The National Union of Students

461 Holloway Rd., London, N7 6LJ

Tel: (0207) 272-8900 Fax: (0207) 263-5713

Email: nusuk@nus.org.uk

Website: http://www.nus.org.uk

The British Academy, Postgraduate Studentship Office,

10 Carlton House Terrace, London, SW1Y 5AH,

Tel: (0207) 969-5200, Fax: (0171) 969-5300

Email: secretary@britac.ac.uk

Association of Commonwealth Universities

John Foster House, 36 Gordon Square, London, WC1H OPF

Tel: (0207) 387-8572 Fax: (0207) 387-2655, Email: info@acu.ac.uk

Provides a series of short papers for students considering study

abroad in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa, and the

United Kingdom. There is also an awards series, which includes

Awards for Postgraduate Study at Commonwealth Universities

(1997-99 ed.), and

Awards for University Teachers and Research

Workers.

Publications

Higher Education in the United Kingdom

, Longman Group Ltd.

Studying and Living in Britain: the British Council's Guide For

Overseas Students and Visitors

, Northcote House.

British Universities' Guide to Graduate Studies, and Awards for

Postgraduate Study at Commonwealth Universities, and The Guide to

Postgraduate Studentships in the Humanities.

Department for

Education and Employment, Publications Centre, PO Box 6927,

London E3 3NZ

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The United States of America

The academic year usually runs from September through May,

and is divided into two semesters. However, this may vary. Expect to

pay outrageous sums of money to study at most Ivy League schools.

Scholarships are available, but if you are an international student

studying in America, expect to pay a high price regardless of where

you go. Search engine programs, which select schools according to

your profile, can be found at the following web sites:

• http://www.usnews.com/usnews/edu/beyond/bcrank/htm

Provides rankings of graduate’s schools in all fields of study.

• http://www.apply.embark.com

Allows you to apply to most top universities (in and outside

of the U.S.) online.

• www.globalcomputing.com/universy.html

This is an active map and archive of higher education

institution web-sites.

A Step Beyond JET

is a good source for information on graduate

programs with an Asian, Japanese or TEFL focus. The book is a

publication of the American Nationality Group (part of AJET), and

costs ¥1000 plus ¥310 postage (slightly more for non-AJET members).

To get a copy, contact your local AJET representative.

Japan-US Educational Commission

Sanno Grand Bldg. 206, 2-14-2 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku,

Tokyo 100-0014 Tel: (03) 3580-3231 Fax: (03) 3580-1217

Email: eis@jusec.go.jp

Website: http://www.jusec.go.jp

The Japan-US Educational Commission is a highly recommended

source of information on American graduate schools.

NAFSA: Association of International Educators

1860 19

St. NW Washington DC 20009

Testing

Those interested in applying to pursue a master's degree in the

United States should be sure to sit the necessary exams: GRE, GMAT,

LSAT, TOEFL, etc. These tests may be taken at centres throughout

Japan, and courses are offered in Tokyo among other places.

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The GRE and GMAT

For general information on the GRE, contact Graduate Record

Examinations (GRE), Educational Testing Service, PO Box 6000,

Princeton, NJ 08541-6000, Fax: (609) 771-7906, Website:

http://www.gre.org

For general information on the GMAT, contact Graduate

Management Admission Test (GMAT), Educational Testing Service,

PO Box 6103, Princeton, NJ 08541-6103, Tel: 1-800-GMAT-NOW,

Fax: (609) 883-4339, Website: http://www.gmat.org

For information on GRE and GMAT preparatory courses offered

in Japan contact Princeton Review in Tokyo at (03) 3376-4669. The

Council of International Education Exchange also provides a

pre-recorded telephone message in English providing information on

both the GMAT and the GRE at (03) 5467-5520. To obtain an

application form, send a self-addressed stamped envelope (22X28cm)

to the address below. The return postage required for the GMAT

exam is ¥190 for one copy, and ¥270 for two copies. The GRE exam

requires postage of ¥270 for one copy and ¥390 for two copies. Send to

Council's TOEFL Division, Cosmos Aoyama B1, 5-53-67 Jingumae

Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150.

The LSAT

For those interested in pursing a master's degree in law, contact the

Japan-United States Commission at (03) 3580-3231. To receive an

application for the LSAT exam post a self-addressed stamped A4

envelope, including postage of ¥390 to the Japan-United States

Commission, Sanno Grand Bldg. 206, 2-14-2 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku,

Tokyo, 100-0014. Vist their website at http://www.jusec.org

http://www.lsat.org

TEFL

International House Teacher Training, Centre for English Studies

330 Seventh Avenue New York, NY 10001, USA

Tel: (1) 212-629-7300 Fax: (1) 212-736-7950

Email: ces_newyork@cescorp.com

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Programs of interest

The Japanese Forum

Held annually in Tokyo for prospective MBA students.

The Japan MBA Forum Office, Institute for International Business

Communication, Sanno Grand Bldg. 9th Fl., 2-14-2 Nagatacho,

Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5521-5874, Fax: (03) 5521-5928.

The School for International Training

A popular venue for former JETs wishing to further their studies.

Admissions Office, PO Box 676 Kipling Rd. Brattleborough,

VT 05302-0676. Tel: 1-800-336-1616 Fax: 1-802-258-3500

Email: admissions@sit.edu

Website: http://www.sit.edu

Scholarships and Grants

Rotary Foundation

1560 Sherman Ave. Evanston IL, 60201

Tel: (847) 866-3000 Fax: (847) 328-8554 Website: http://www.rotary.org

Scholarships in international studies:

(a)

1 Year Ambassadorial,

(b) 2

or 3

Multi-year Ambassadorial,

(c)

6 month Cultural Ambassadorial.

Eligibility:

Open to citizens of any country where there is a Rotary

Club regardless of age. Applicants should have completed at least

two years of university coursework or equivalent professional

experience prior to beginning scholarship studies. Rotarians and

their kin are not eligible. The program favours students from

developing countries.

Maximum possible award:

(a)

up to $23,000,

(b)

$11,000 per year,

(c)

up to $10,000/up to $17,000. Academic Year and

Cultural scholarships cover funding for specific expenses only.

Deadlines

vary, from March–July at least one year in advance,

through your local Rotary Club

George Washington University, Elliot School of International Affairs

Stuart Hall 101, Washington DC, 20052

A one-year student exchange program with Kansai University in

Osaka, Japan, that includes a scholarship

Subjects:

Japanese, history,

economics, and political science.

Value:

tuition of $16,400 airfare and

living expenses of $800 per month.

Applications:

by March 1

of the

preceding year.

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Institute of International Education, USIA Fulbright Awards and

Scholarships

IIE, USIA Fulbright Student Program809 United Nations Plaza New

York NY, 10017-3580Tel: (212) 984-5330 Email: info@iie.org

Website:

http://www.iie.org

Subjects:

all fields of study in the United States, graduate studies.

Open to:

candidates preferably under the age of 35. Foreign students

should apply to the Bi-national Educational Commission or

Foundation in their home country, or to the Cultural Affairs Office in

the United States Embassy. IIE offices in the United States cannot

accept direct applications from foreign applicants. American

students should apply to their campus Fulbright Program Advisors by

October 31

. IIE also has offices in Hong Kong, Mexico, and Thailand.

Check with the nearest American Embassy.

Monterey Institute of International Studies, JET Alumni Scholarships

425 Van Buren St. Monterey CA, 93940 Tel: (831) 647-4123

Fax: (831) 647-6405 Email: admit@miis.edu

http://www.miis.edu

Subjects:

International Policy Studies, International Business (MBA),

International Public Administration, International Environ-mental

Policy, TESL (MA), Teaching Foreign Languages (MA), Translation

and Interpretation (MA), Commercial Diplomacy (MA). All programs

except for TESL require the study of a second language.

Duration:

half tuition for 2 years.

Applications:

by March 1

for students

entering the following summer or by October 1

for students wishing

to begin in the spring.

Women's Research and Education Institute, Congressional Fellowships on

Women and Public Policy,

Fellowship Program Director 1700 18

St. NW, DC 20009

For those interested in pursuing public policy/women's studies at the

graduate level, this award is tenable in Washington, DC. Fellows are

required to work for credit as legislative aids in congressional offices

and as committee staff. International Fellowships for full-time

graduate or postgraduate study or research in the United States are

awarded to women who are not US citizens or permanent residents.

Applicants must hold the equivalent of a US bachelor's degree on or

before December 31

, 2002. Stipend: US$16,000. Applications

requested August 1

to November 15

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Alpha Delta Kappa, International Teacher Education Scholarship

1615 W. 92

St., Kansas City, MO 64114, Tel: (816) 363-5525

Fax: (816) 363-4010E-mail: alphadeltakappa@worldnet.att.net

http://www.alphadeltakappa.org

Open to:

Women aged 20 to 35 with no dependants, who are non-U.S.

citizens residing outside of the U.S. during the application and

selection period.

Applications:

by January 1

American Association of University Women

Educational International Fellowships, 2201 N. Dodge St.,

Dept. 89 Iowa City, IA 52243-4030 Web site: http://www.aauw.org

Promotes education and equity for all women. Many fellowships and

grants are awarded each year. Visit their web site to learn more.

University of Hawaii & The Japan-America Institute of Management Science

6660 Hawaii Kai Drive Honolulu, HI 96825-1108

Tel: (808) 395-2314 Fax: (808) 396-7112 Email: [email protected]g

http://www.jaims.org

15-month Japan-focused MBA. At least one JET scholarship of

¥500,000 is available per year. For information call (03) 3730-3116.

The application deadline is February 1

for US citizens, and January

for other countries.

National Women's Studies Association

7100 Baltimore Ave., Suite 301 College Park, MD 20740,

Tel: (301) 403-0524/0525 Fax: (301) 403-4137

Email: n[email protected]md.edu

Graduate scholarships for general, lesbian and Jewish women's

studies.

Sallie Mae's CASHE Database (http://www.salliemae.com)

Receive a list of private scholarships, grants, fellowships and

work-study programs based on your electronic profile:

Financial Aid http://www.finaid.com

Association of Graduate Students http://www.nagps.org

Publications

A Guide to Scholarships, Fellowships and Grants: a Selected

Bibliography. Institute of International Education.

217

Travel Advice

Travelling, for many of us, is an integral part of our JET

experience. The chance to get out and explore other

countries—or just to take it easy on a beach somewhere—is too

good to miss. This chapter provides information to help you get

the most out of your vacation time and money. It also contains

practical advice on a range of travel issues, from visas and

health to insurance, transport and more. The accompanying

travelogues, all of which were written by JETs, and cover more

than sixty countries, are intended to provide snapshots of great

locations. Although the travelogues are subjective, I hope they

are also interesting and informative.

A big “thank you” to all the past and present JETs who have

contributed their time, talent, ideas, and effort into this section

of Jet & Beyond.

218

General Travel Advice

Read your travel guide THOROUGHLY before you set off,

especially sections detailing warnings/scams etc. Remember that most

people travel safely without a hitch but prior knowledge will help you

to deal with any difficult situations should they arise. Also, careful

planning can make a budget stretch much further.

Visit your local travel or health clinic and update your

immunisations. Some inoculations need to be administered over a

period of weeks, so inquire early. Label the bottles and carry a copy of

the prescription for any medications you carry. If possible, try to get

your immunisations done before you leave home. Inquire early to find

out if you need a visa for where you're going. When arriving in a new

country make sure to register with police, if required, or to get any

necessary internal travel permits.

Never offer a bribe. If that is what is obviously required, ask

whether there is a “service fee applicable” or, better still, get a local

resident to inquire on your behalf. Watch out for customs officials at

small, remote countries border posts. They might cause you problems

just because they are bored. Even if you are examined with

exasperating thoroughness, handle yourself in a patient and civil

manner. Do not joke around, display irritation, take pictures, write

notes in a diary, or do any other apparently innocent act that could be

twisted into charges of espionage. It has happened to JETs before!

It is a good idea to bring at least one set of light but reasonably

presentable clothes in the event that you need to make an emergency

trip to an embassy or government office.

Choose someone at home that you can trust to be your contact

person. Make a rough itinerary for them, including countries,

approximate dates, addresses etc. If you're going somewhere remote

take the additional precaution of registering with the nearest embassy

or consulate. If you want to receive mail you can use AMEX, or Poste

Restante offices worldwide. Better still, get an email address that you

can use internationally, so it is possible to look up and send emails all

over the world.

219

Travel books get heavy, so consider bringing only copies of

essential pages. Carry only a copy of your address book to save a lot of

frustration if it gets lost or stolen.

Overall, remember travelling takes patience, especially in many

parts of Africa and Asia. A simple lunch at a restaurant can take up to

two hours. There is little point in stressing yourself out because you

are not going to change a society during your visit.

Making your own travel agenda

Before you head to the airport, it is important to put some

thought and research into where you are going. What are your

expectations? Do you want to see the famous sights, or go off the

beaten trail? Do you want to travel in style with several friends, or go

alone and play it one day at a time?

Choosing travel partners and setting budgets basically comes

with practice. Many friendships have been put to the test by the

stresses of travel: negotiating accommodation /eating arrangements/

whether to stay or move on, etc. Try to agree on basic itineraries

before you depart and remember to remain flexible. As for making an

agenda, it is a good idea to consult with travel agents and talk with

friends who have taken similar trips.

The information that you can get from those who have gone

before you will be invaluable. When it comes to researching your

travel destination, remember that there is a vast amount of travel

literature out there, be it in printed form or on the Internet. The

chances are that, no matter where you want to go or what you want to

do, there will be a website/book for you to reference.

Travel magazines and newsletters

Transitions Abroad

Published every two months, this magazine has been running for

more than twenty years. Each issue deals with a different topic of

interest to independent travellers for details write to PO Box 1300,

Amherst, MA 01004-1300, U.S. (fax: 413 256 0373) or

www.Transitionsabroad.com

The Globe

220

A somewhat idiosyncratic magazine produced by the London based

Globetrotters' Club. It is free if you join the Globetrotters’ Club (BCM

Roving, London, WC1N 3XX, UK). The club aims to help travellers

network information http://www.globetrotters.co.uk

Planet Talk

Free quarterly newsletter put out by Lonely Planet. It's full of tips

from travellers, authors, and the owner/founders of Lonely Planet,

Tony and Maureen Wheeler. Simply ask to be put on the mailing list.

See http://www.lonelyplanet.com

or write to Lonely Planet, 10 Barley

Mow Passage, London, W4 4PH, UK; or at Embarcadero West, 155

Filbert St., Suite 251, Oakland CA 94607 USA

National Geographic Traveller

Manages to be both glossy and informative and is a monthly

publication there's an online edition at

http://www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler

. A one-year subscription

for the print edition costs $25.50. Full details can be found on the

same website.

The South American Explorer

This magazine is produced by the South American Explorers, a

non-profit organisation founded in 1977. It contains articles on

everything from history and archaeology to practical advice for the

do-it-yourself traveller. A subscription costs $22 per year, plus an

extra $10 for subscribers outside the U.S. explorer@saexplorers.org

126 Indian Creek Rd., Ithaca, NY, 14850, USA, Tel/Fax: (607)

277-0488. http://www.saexplorers.org

ABROAD

It is a Japanese monthly publication found in most bookstores but is

easily deciphered. Tour packages are listed for all over the world.

¥450

Farang

(meaning “foreigner” in Thai)

French language newsletters are clear, concise reports and an

excellent source for recent information on Southeast Asia. Write to

Jose Bernard, La Rue 8, B.A. 261, Braives, Belgium.Tel: (019) 69 9823.

Send a donation for a sample copy.

Globetrotters Magazine

, along with

Cocktail

221

For French speakers who join ABM (Aventure du Bout du Monde, 11

bis rue Maison Diue, 75014 Paris, France, Tel: (1) 43-35-08-95)

Travel books

The Alternative Travel Directory - The Complete Guide to Travelling,

Studying & Living Overseas

A gold-mine of information with address-packed sections on topics

including special interest vacations, responsible travel programs and

independent travel resources. Published by the editors of the

Transitions Abroad magazine, it costs $19.95 plus postage. For

information contact Transitions Abroad.

The Travellers Handbook

(Melissa Shales, The Globe Pequot Press, USA, 1988). Another nifty

little reference book packed with addresses and annotated

bibliographies, vaccine tables and so on.

OAG Worldwide

(Church St., Dunstable, Beds, LU5 4HB, UK, Fax: 44(0) 1582-695230)

A series of quarterly updated travel reference books, their Guide to

International Travel has up-to-date information on airport facilities,

visa regulations, customs etc, for 215 countries worldwide. The OAG

Cruise and Ferry Guide lists most of the world’s accessible shipping

services, with timetables, cruise ship itineraries and

passenger-carrying freighters.

The OAG Air Travel Atlas

shows all possible world air routings

pictorially, while the

OAG World Airways Guide

is the travel agents’

bible of all world flight details. In Japan, call OAG Worldwide office.

Tel: (03) 3573-3191, Fax: (03) 3573-3199.

The Thomas Cook European Timetable

This is extremely useful for anyone travelling on a Eurail pass. It lists

almost 50,000 passenger rail service schedules together with

passenger shipping schedules for every European country. Thomas

Cook also publishes an Overseas Timetable, which provides

information on railway, road and shipping services for America, Africa,

Asia and Australasia. Both books are available in the major

bookstores in Japan at a cost of ¥2750. Or order direct from the

Forsyth Travel Library at www.forsyth.com,

E-mail: forsyth@aol.com

each book costs $32.90 including postage and packing. The European

Timetable is published in the UK on the first day of each month; the

Overseas Timetable is published six times per year: January, March,

222

May, July, September and November.

Alternative travel guides

Moon Travel Handbooks

(Moon Publications). Include cultural, historical and political

information. Written by experienced travellers this series is

particularly good on Asia, Latin America and the South Pacific (the

single volume

South Pacific Handbook

is particularly recommended).

www.moon.com

Rick Steves' Country Guides

(John Muir) deal with Europe and contain good information on

transport, accommodation and food for those on a budget. Updated

annually. http://www.ricksteves.com

Ulysses Travel Guides

(Ulysses Travel Publications). This is for the up-market traveller.

They provide cultural, historical, and artistic information.

www.ulyssesguides.com

Nelles Guides

(Seven Hills Books). They are a relatively new addition to the travel

guide market. Good photographs and, in addition to the standard

material, there are essays on native cooking, art and festivals.

Bradt Guides

(Globe Pequot Press). Focuses on some of the less travelled parts of

the world (Rwanda, for example). Good maps and well-written

sections on local culture and natural history.

http://www.bradt-travelguides.com/system/index.html

Recommended on-line travel sites

http://www.frommers.com Encyclopaedia of Travel.

http://www.fodors.com

Fodders Travel.

http://www.roughguides.com

Rough Guides

http://www.budgettravel.com

Budget Travel.

http://www.got.com

Global Online Travel

http://www.vtourist.com

Virtual Tourist

http://www.cnn.com/TRAVEL

CNN Travel

http://www.travlang.com/languages

Languages for travel

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http://www.iagora.com Networking service for travellers

http://www.ricksteves.com

European travel info, good on rail

http://www.worldtravelguide.net

Comprehensive travel info

http://www.railserve.com

Worldwide rail travel

information

http://www.netcafeguide.com

Internet cafes around the world

http://www.artoftravel.com

European and World

Backpacking

http://travel.epicurious.com

Conde Nast budget travel info

http://www.towd.com

World-wide Directory, tourism offices

http://www.city.net

European info, city and subway maps

http://www.iyhf.org

Database of hostels in 75 countries

Getting There

Air travel

The airline industry has been particularly affected by the September 2001

terrorist attacks on New York and Washington, D.C. The whole industry is in

a state of flux. In the US and throughout the world, heightened airport

security, earlier check-in times (in many cases, four hours instead of two) and

greater restrictions on carry-on baggage have been just some of the immediate

changes. As new legislation takes effect and new security equipment is

installed in airports, the security measures that surround flying are likely to

intensify. Now, more than ever, it is necessary to be aware of your airline's

security arrangements well in advance of your flight date.

Regardless of when you are flying, here are some general points

to bear in mind. Ensure that you understand how the ticket you

intend to buy actually works. Discounted air tickets tend to very

inflexible—if you cancel or change a discounted ticket you will almost

certainly incur a financial penalty. There are also often restrictions on

the minimum and maximum amount of time you must be away.

Many countries will not let you in unless you already have an

onward ticket out of the country. If you don't know what your plans

are at that time, either buy the cheapest ticket to somewhere nearby

or buy a flexible ticket that can be altered if necessary.

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Do not forget to re-confirm tickets at least 72 hours prior to

departure, or else you could lose your seat. In many countries where

the infrastructure is less than modern, you can save yourself a

potential headache by reconfirming your departure immediately upon

arrival. On the day of your flight, check-in with plenty of time to spare

in order to avoid being “bumped” (losing one’s place).

In the US, if you are bumped because of overbooking and the

airline fails to get you to your destination within four hours of your

original scheduled arrival time, you are entitled to compensation of

$400 or double the one-way fare, whichever is greater. Note that if you

are bumped because of a change of aircraft or weather you won't be

entitled to compensation. Also, the level of compensation varies from

country to country. On certain airlines, notably in Western countries,

cancellation of flights, delays, and bumping can be to the advantage of

unhurried passengers. In such cases, volunteering to be bumped can

get you vouchers for free tickets, though before you volunteer make

sure that you are guaranteed a seat on a later flight and not just put

on standby.

This system is not applicable in most of Asia. Indeed, in many

countries one should almost expect a delay of a day or two.

Sometimes, there is a blackboard rather than computers at check-in,

so it is first come, first serve. Bumping in China occurs when there

happens to be more boarding passes than seats. There is no

compensation, so check in early.

If you have no ticket, you can still sometimes get on. You may

even gain a discount by turning up at the airport and queuing for a

standby (issued when there are unfilled seats or cancellations). This

is popular even where no discount exists, e.g. in China, where booking

is difficult.

Treat your ticket as if it was cash. If your ticket is lost or stolen

contact both the airline and the police at once. Although airlines are

not legally obliged to replace your ticket, most will do so after making

some inquiries. A police report is likely to speed up the replacement

process. Before your journey begins, photocopy your tickets and keep

them in a safe place. If you feel you are being treated unfairly by an

airline you can ask to see their Conditions of Carriage. You have a

right to see it. This document is essentially the contract you make

with the airline when you buy your ticket (many, but not all, of the

conditions can be found on the ticket).

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Knowledge of your rights will help you should you run into any

difficulties. Terry Trippler, an expert on air travel, has compiled

'Rules of the Air', consumer-oriented catalos of airlines rules and

regulations. See http://www.OneTravel.com

. Similarly detailed

information is also available, on an airline-by airline basis, from the

US Air Transportation Association at http://www.air-transport.org

(1301 Pennsylvania Ave., Suite 1100, Washington, DC 20004.)

Round the world tickets

'Round the World' tickets are a popular option for many travellers.

Although more expensive than a basic return flight, RTW tickets

allow you to do just what their name suggests. You can go anywhere

the carrying airlines go as long as you don't backtrack. When buying

your ticket you decide the number of stopovers you wish to make and,

in most cases, you must complete your journey in a year.

As the popularity of RTW tickets has grown in recent years, the

number of travel agents specialising in this field has increased. This is

another area of the travel business where it definitely pays to shop

around. Seven Seas Travel of Yokohama offers a round the world

deals with a maximum of 15 stopovers. The itinerary should include

one Pacific and one Atlantic crossing. The ticket is valid for one year

and there is no charge to change the dates of your flights. The price

depends on the mileage of your itinerary, for example, 29000 miles

costs from $1400. E-mail: travel@yk.rim.or.jp

if you visit

http://www.airtreks.com

you can create an itinerary for round the

world trips.

Avia Travel in San Francisco sells double back tickets. The

ticket might be something like Japan>SE Asia>Japan>US. This

works out as a great deal, and gives you the “free holiday” in Asia

instead of your home country. Avia Travel also offers some good deals

on "Going Home the Long Way". You can choose to go home via Asia

or the South Pacific or via Europe/India/Africa. Indeed there are so

many possible itineraries that you should contact them direct with

your preferred dates and countries. http://www.aviatravel.com

email at sales@aviatravel.com

If you are departing from Japan but live outside the major cities

then you may want to check out the local airports for international

flights. For example, from Toyama, there are four scheduled flights

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to Seoul as well as one a week to East Siberia. Korean Air or Asiana

connects many regional airports to Seoul.

You can use this as a springboard to worldwide destinations.

Although the prices may seem a little more expensive initially, you

might save both time and money by departing from Japan.

Air hitch

There is now a special company that specializes in finding a cheap

place on a flight somewhere near your destination within a five-day

period that you specify (unfortunately this service is not available

from Japan). Register this period ahead of time, and then call back

near the date to find where and when you will be flying. For example,

you may ask for Brussels, and be given a ticket to Amsterdam.

Apparently 90% of customers get their requested destination or

within reasonable ‘commuting distance’. Obviously, this system works

best for the busy trans-Atlantic routes, where cities tend to be close

together. Fixed price on US (east coast) to Europe is $169 one-way.

Contact Air hitch at 2790 Broadway, Suite 100, NY, NY 10025 USA.

http://www.airhitch.org

Air courier tickets

Sending urgent packages by express airmail will take a minimum

of three days. This is just not fast enough for some business

documents, so a niche has arisen for “air couriers,” who are normal

travellers prepared to travel light. The courier company uses the

traveller’s baggage allowance for their urgent material. All you have

to do is 1) not be late, and 2) hand over the baggage to a

representative at the other end. In return, you can save up to 85%

off the regular airline ticket price. Unlike normal tickets, the price

gets cheaper the later you book, if a place is available. Occasionally

you can even get free tickets if you call at the last moment and do not

mind where you go.

Courier flights will only operate on major commercial routings.

The most common ones are the trans-Atlantic and trans-Pacific routes.

There are also various routes out of Hong Kong and Singapore. The

majority of flights are sold on a fixed period return basis, anywhere

from one week to six months depending on the location. The

companies are not travel agents, but booking ahead is suggested if you

have a specific destination and travel date in mind.

Air Courier Travel http://www.courier.org

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Other important documents

Keep a second and third copy of your address book and send the

original home. Losing your one and only address book can be a

heartbreaking experience. Also, make two photocopies of the

important parts of your passport: the front few pages, plus your

Japanese visa, extensions and re-entry permit if you are coming back.

Your passport must remain valid until well after your trip.

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Some countries stipulate a certain minimum period. Leave one

copy with a friend and carry the other separate from your passport.

If you lose your passport, this may help speed the re-issue process.

Copies of your birth certificate, credit cards, airline tickets, travel

documents, etc. may also prove useful in tricky situations. Bring

your alien registration card with you when leaving Japan.

An international driver’s license is always useful. You can get

one from your home country’s motoring organization(s). ISIC

Student Cards can save you a lot of money in certain countries and

get you substantial discounts on international flights. They can be

bought through STA for $22 or you can order via the Internet at

http://www.counciltravel.com

Valuables

The biggest travel worry is always where to keep your passport

and money. Do not keep them in a backpack or waist bag as these are

too visible and easily removed. If you are in higher-risk areas, and

feel vulnerable, wear a money belt beneath your clothes. This should

contain some of your traveller’s checks, and other important but

replaceable documents such as student cards, driver’s license and a

copy of your address book. Carry a certain amount of cash in pockets

but keep your real valuables (passport, credit cards, high value

traveller’s checks) in the deep pockets of a pair of underclothes. The

money belt will hopefully be protection enough, but keeping real

valuables hidden could prove indispensable should you be harried by a

determined, threatening attacker who is unsatisfied with just the

cash in your pockets.

Take care when putting valuables in a hotel safe. Make a list of

what you have and, when it is returned, check that it is all there.

One JET reported, “A Malaysian hostel returned my bundle of

traveller’s checks, but three or four were missing from the middle of

the stack. By the time I checked, I was in Thailand.” American

Express TCs are refundable if you get a police report and take it to an

Amex office. Be more careful about cash and credit cards (used, but

not stolen) in such situations.

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Money

Carrying traveller’s checks (TCs) is undoubtedly the safest option.

American Express, Thomas Cook and Visa are the most recognized,

and usually offer instant replacement in the case of loss or theft.

(Remember to make a record of the serial numbers of your TCs.)

However, in remote areas, border crossings and in places where there

is a dual economy or strong black market, bringing a certain amount

of hard currency can be essential.

Changing TCs into cash may be very expensive or impossible in

such areas. Watch carefully and always talk to other travellers first

to check rates, scams, etc. If you get stuck with no local currency,

and the banks decide to shut for a five-day festival, you can always

find an entrepreneur who will exchange your dollars.

For Europe, Thailand, Korea, and Australia/New Zealand, you

might as well get your TCs in Yen, rather than US$, thus saving extra

conversion charges. However, in North America, and particularly in

Micronesia, there is an expectation that you will bring dollars. Trying

to change any other currency can be expensive, if not impossible.

Credit cards are a very useful backup, though the extent of their

acceptance varies considerably. Be aware of hefty surcharges and

changes in exchange rates. Eventual costs could be greater than

anticipated.

Insurance

CLAIR has provided us with accident insurance that covers our

JET vacations (except for periods of more than 30 days spent in our

own home country). For non-renewers, coverage includes 30 days

after leaving the program. Claim through Yasuda Fire and Marine

Insurance Co., English hotline Tel: (0120) 08-1572 (toll free) in Japan,

or if you are abroad, call collect (reverse charge): +81 (3) 3593-1572.

The Yasuda policy deals only with health matters, so for current and

non-renewing JETs alike, an additional travel insurance policy

covering theft and loss is a sensible move.

Travel agents issue all-encompassing insurance, but as a rule,

insurance bought in Japan is not applicable unless you are returning

to the country. So, if you are not returning and want travel

insurance, you will either need to 1) get it through your home country,

or 2) have a Japanese friend apply on your behalf as your “contractor.”

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The added disadvantage with the latter is that any “fly-me-home”

clause would of course bring you to Japan. The International

Student Travel Association (STA) is good value, covers most

eventualities and student status is not a requirement. The American

Automobile Association also provides insurance for American

travellers.

In Asia and Africa, health insurance is worth only peace of mind,

but it is a good idea for Europe and North America, where there is a

higher statistical chance of injury, better medical facilities and more

expensive hospital costs. As with any type of insurance, you file in

the country where the insurance was purchased. Before they will

accept a claim, insurance companies require evidence that you have

paid medical expenses, or in the case of theft, a copy of a police report.

The police report usually must be filed within 48 hours of the incident.

Travel insurance often EXCLUDES skiing, scuba diving,

motoring accidents in rented cars and trip cancellation or interruption

when your airline or tour company suddenly leaves you stranded. Be

sure to read the fine print to see that you have adequate coverage.

Credit card insurance protects your credit cards against

fraudulent use and can save you a considerable amount of money.

This is especially important in Thailand, where some 90% of the

developing world’s credit card fraud occurs. Many people wrongly

assume that their cards are protected. So that you are prepared for

all eventualities, always carry your policy numbers and proof of

insurance with you when travelling.

Scuba insurance

For scuba divers, accidents are not usually covered by normal

insurance policies. Consider a supplemental policy from Diver’s

Alert Network (DAN). These policies are not expensive, but provide

essential care in the event of a diving accident. Peace of mind is

probably worth 5,500 a year.

DAN (JAPAN) Japan Marine Recreation Assoc.

3-8 Mejiro, 1-Chome Toshima-ku, Tokyo 171

Tel: (03) 3590-6501 Fax: (03) 3590-8325

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Safety

For up-to-date information on politically unstable regions and

destinations to avoid, see the homepage of your own country's foreign

affairs department.

Australia: http;//at.gov.au/travel/index.html

Canada: http://voyage.dfait~maeci.gc.ca/destinations/menu.e.html

Ireland: http://gov.ie/iveagh/

New Zealand: http://www.mfat.govt.nz/travel/

United Kingdom: http://www.fco.gov.uk/travel

United States: http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html

Packing tips

A sturdy backpack with a small daypack is undoubtedly the best

combination. You might want to buy a backpack cover too. These

are cheap and fit easily over the bulk of the rucksack, making any

tempting looking zips or clasps less accessible to the would-be-thief.

Put name/ address labels both outside and INSIDE your pack.

Travel as lightly as possible and choose clothes that are versatile.

Bring extra passport photos for unexpected visas, permits, etc. Carry

a small flashlight, a padlock for hostel doors (cheap places often use

the padlock system, but their locks are insecure), a penknife, and a

lockable chain to fasten your bag to the tops of buses and train

luggage racks. Bring some laundry soap, as laundrette’s may be

non-existent.

Health News

Please note that the information below constitutes a personal,

practical view compiled by recreational travellers, rather than

professional advice. Before departing, check with the relevant

embassies or consulates about necessary inoculations and specific

health precautions.

While health deserves serious consideration, there is no need to

become paranoid when travelling. Before rushing out and getting

prophylactic inoculations, malaria pills, and water purifiers, check

that you really need them for where you are going and what you are

doing. The number one piece of advice is to carry a small,

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straightforward medical kit, even during short day trips. In

developing countries, be sure to check the expiry date on medicines.

Vaccinations

Before travelling, make sure you have the necessary vaccinations.

Most large hospitals in Japan administer standard Hepatitis A and B,

Cholera and Tetanus shots. However for Polio, Yellow Fever,

Typhoid and Diphtheria, you may have to travel to one of the two

clinics listed below (Table 5.1). Check with your local doctor first.

Yellow fever inoculation certificates (valid 10 years) are required

by certain African and South American countries and are checked at

the airport on arrival. Vaccinations for Hepatitis A, a

liver-debilitating disease commonly contracted by travellers in

developing countries, are recommended for many areas of the world.

It is not life threatening, but recovery will take months of rest and

alcoholic abstinence. Hepatitis A can be warded off with gamma

globulin/immune globulin shots.

These are recommended, but are only effective for relatively short

time periods. If planning to be away for three months or more, there

is a ten-year vaccine available. This has to be given in a series of

injections over a six-month period, so plan in advance. Polio and

typhoid inoculations are also sensible precautions. The cholera

vaccination is largely ineffective and is only recommended if you are

visiting a country at the time of an epidemic. Also, check that your

tetanus inoculation is up to date, as you need boosters every ten

years.

It is a good idea to include a disposable syringe in your medical

kit in case you are faced with the need to get a gamma globulin

booster or hospital treatment. One JET recounts in horror travelling

to Singapore and being given an inoculation by an attendant without

gloves using an unclean needle.

Lastly, remember to plan ahead! Some immunizations cannot be

given at the same time (e.g. Hepatitis A inoculations cannot be

received within six weeks of any Polio or Yellow Fever vaccination).

Others take time to become effective.

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Delhi belly, Montezuma’s revenge

Whatever it is called, it is bound to happen at some time or

another! There is no need to rush to the pharmacy and take

antibiotics. Instead, avoid eating until it completely passes through

your system (usually around 36 hours), drink lots of liquids to prevent

dehydration and get plenty of rest. Make sure you have some

anti-diarrhoea tablets as these normally relieve symptoms quickly

and effectively.

If the problem persists or gets bloody, then seek medical advice,

quickly. The best way to avoid problems is to take care with food and

water. Peel fruit, beware of salads, ice and ice cream and ensure

that meat is thoroughly cooked. If you buy mineral water, check that

bottles are sealed; you may be buying tap water. Also remember to

check food packages for best by dates. Food more than one year old

has been found on some South East Asian supermarket shelves! You

have been warned!

Do not drink tap water unless you know it is safe. Boil or filter

water as necessary. Carry a container that will hold boiling water.

If you want to purify, a recommended method is one or two drops of

water-based iodine solution (not medical tincture) per litre.

Remember, though, that it is unhealthy to drink iodised water

continuously for two or three months. One of the problems with

purifying water is that your stomach does not get used to the bugs.

Worse still, many water-purifying agents actually kill “good bugs” in

your stomach, making you more vulnerable to getting sick. So if you

purify once, you must continue to do so.

Perhaps if you are going to be in a rural area for an extended

amount of time, it may be better to suffer a bit until your body gets

used to the conditions. Also note that in many parts of Asia, like

China and Vietnam, boiled or boiling water/tea is provided by even

the cheapest of guesthouses, so there is little reason to worry.

Problems arise more when trekking, especially in India, Bangladesh,

and Pakistan. A classic technique is to carry gifts of lemon grass,

cinnamon sticks, and herb teas. Instruct your host that the tea

needs to be boiled for five to ten minutes, and most nasty parasites

will die.

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Malaria

Malaria is a problem throughout the tropics. The most effective

prevention is to take good precautions against insect bites. Use

repellent that contains DEET (diethyltoluamide) with a concentration

of 32-35% (higher might irritate your skin, lower is not effective).

Malaria is somewhat seasonal and worse at the end of wet

seasons. The mosquitoes that transmit the disease do not survive

well at high altitudes and do not like bursts of low temperature. Also,

they only bite between dusk and dawn, which is why using mosquito

coils at night and a net wherever possible, is so important. So

remember to maintain a good supply of effective repellent, dress in

bright colours (honest), keep your arms and legs covered after sunset

and sleep in properly screened rooms.

Anti-malarial drugs do not prevent the disease, but they do

suppress its symptoms. Consider taking the pills if going for a short

trip to a high-risk area. There are two main malarial prophylactics

on the market: mefloquin and chloroquine. Southeast Asia malarial

strains are resistant to chloroquine, so mefloquin is the only

alternative. This drug is only available at one pharmacy in Tokyo,

(Akadama Yakkyyoku, Tel: (03) 3492-5706). They will mail medicine

to your home. Alternatively, your local doctor can order it in a week

or so. The pills cost 1200 Yen each, which is actually a competitive

price. Insurance will not cover the cost. If you decide to take

malaria pills, do not forget that you must start taking them a week

before entering the malarial area, and continue for four weeks

afterwards. Mefloquin is also readily available in Singapore, Hong

Kong, Bangkok, and Kuala Lumpur.

Remember that malaria is a very serious and potentially fatal

disease. Symptoms of malaria include headaches, fever, chills and

sweating. Embassies and consulates can usually recommend

English-speaking doctors.

Also, five star hotels can recommend someone, though, as the

Lonely Planet

notes, they will probably recommend doctors with five

star prices. For more information call the CDC Malaria Hotline.

Tel: (404) 332-4555 (USA), or the International Clinic in Tokyo at: (03)

3582-2646.

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Other precautions

Something as simple as sunburn can ruin a vacation. Make sure

to bring sunscreen (UV) lotion when travelling in hot regions such as

the tropics of Southeast Asia. Sunglasses and a hat are also a must.

Due to the extreme heat, you are a target for heat exhaustion. When

sweating profusely, you lose a lot of salt that can cause fatigue and

muscle cramps. An easy measure is to increase your salt intake and

drink as much water as possible.

Humidity and heat can also cause skin problems such as jock itch,

athlete’s foot, dermatitis (caused by jewellery and watches rubbing

your skin), and prickly heat (caused by excessive sweating). Make

sure to bathe often and thoroughly dry yourself before dressing. Bring

anti-fungal ointments and powder such as Desenex, Tinactin and

Mycota. Wear light cotton clothing and underwear and opt for open

sandals.

Further information

For a more comprehensive and medically cautious view, the following

information resources are recommended:

The US Centre for Disease Control and Prevention

http://www.cdc.gov carries general travel health information and news

about specific disease outbreaks. They also publish

Health

Information for Travellers

. To purchase, call (202) 512-1800, US$20.

1600 Clifton Rd. NE, Atlanta GA 30333, USA, Fax: (888) 232-3299.

The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers,

417 Centre St., Lewiston, New York, NY 14092, USA. Tel: (716)

754-4883. http://www.sentex.net/~iamat

or e-mail at iamat@sentex.net

Membership includes a directory of English speaking doctors in

developing countries, brochures on immunization requirements,

tropical diseases, climate and sanitation. Membership is free, but

donations are appreciated.

The Travellers’ Medical Service of Washington,

Handles health matters for the Peace Corps and issues a ten-page

handout that is used by US university student travel advisors. Write

to 2141 K Street NW, Suite 408, Washington, DC 20037, USA.

MASTA

Has a free excellent advisory service including latest information on

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vaccinations, safety and political stability of all countries.

http://www.masta.org

Tel: (0891) 224 100.

Tips for Women Travellers

Solo—a woman travelling alone

Johanna Raines was an ALT in Yamaguchi ken.

I was sitting in a small café, sharing coffee and conversation with

a dear friend, who was ardently talking about her upcoming journey.

It would be her first time to travel alone, and she wanted to know if

there was anything

in particular

she should be aware of. My first

impulse was to say that basic common sense should do the trick. And

then, my head began to spin with various shady situations that could

very well have been avoided had I chatted with other women who had

experienced travelling solo prior to my first solo exodus.

For starters, I might not have left that cantina in Southern

Mexico at the midnight hour, without an escort, for my simple

ten-minute walk home. Packs of angry young men (common

knowledge amongst the locals) spend their time skulking

safe looking

streets during those moon lit hours, look for people to plunder. Had I

known that lone women were prime targets for such bandits, I might

have found an escort or taken a taxi. I would have avoided the terror

of being chased for some five blocks down the deserted streets and

getting lost in the creepy process. The gods must have been on my

side that night, for a car finally did make an appearance, and I was

able to hail the driver by standing in the middle of the road. I climbed

inside, and told him, in my broken Spanish, to drive on (while

clutching onto the handle of the door, in case I needed a quick escape).

Meanwhile, my assailant just stood there on the curb with his arms

crossed, looking furious, and watched us drive away. My luck

continued, in that the stranger in the car did not attack me. I vowed

to myself that I would never again scoff at the prospect of taking a

five- minute taxi ride.

If you are a goddess with a touch of wanderlust, I urge you to go

forth. The experience of travelling solo is simply one that cannot be

surpassed. However, before you venture, do give some consideration

as to how you will be perceived by others on the path. Basically, this

starts in owning to the fact (as silly as it may be) that the majority of

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people in foreign lands are quick to react to us as just that:

a foreign

woman alone, in a foreign land

. This oftentimes is tantamount to

being a sparkly, shiny, object spotted by a crow in flight. With an

insatiable interest in all things shiny, crows are highly disposed to

going in for a swoop.

Basically, as long as you are actively aware of some of the

responsible etiquette

that goes along with being such a sparkly entity,

you will not only avoid the clutches of the crow, but will also acquire

many more reasons to shine. And so, with that said, I offer the

following suggestions that I hope will help secure a ‘mangle-free’

journey. Try to arrive at new destinations during daylight hours and

with a clear head, because already, you will be vulnerable from being

disorientated, carrying a heavy bag and not being able to speak the

language. If you must arrive at night, make a reservation at a hotel or

hostel and splurge on a taxi to get you there. You can always find a

cheaper place in the morning when you learn the layout of the area.

To start, avoid venturing out alone in the evening hours! No

matter how peaceful or pretty a place seems to be, never assume

safety. The world is littered with idyllic towns run by people who go to

great lengths at keeping crime reports out of the media, especially

when foreigners are involved. If you do have an overwhelming desire

to wander, walk like you know your way around.

As soon as possible, learn how to say things like: “go away”, “help

me”, and “no thanks.” Do not be shy about appealing to strangers for

assistance if you are feeling uncomfortable. Some of my best friends

are couples I met after asking if I could join them to avoid the clutches

of some potential maniac who was lingering a little too long.

Make an effort to learn as much about the societies you plan to

visit beforehand! I cannot stress the importance of this, for this is how

you will develop ideas on how the women of whatever country you will

be visiting are treated by their kin. Without question, the natives will

invariably have differing reactions and expectations to the travelling

foreigner, but alas, certain fixed attitudes will prevail, and it helps to

know what types of mentalities you will be confronting.

Anthropologists have been quite prolific in their vivid accounts of

societies, including the manners in which women are esteemed and

treated. There is a wealth of literature accessible on every single

culture of the world. Take advantage of it! A few hours spent in the

240

library prior to your journey will engender you a powerful sense of

what types of behaviour might be expected of you.

The issue of

apparel

is of supreme importance. Something as

trivial as wearing a pair of shorts in certain communities could result

in you being ostracized by women who might otherwise have made an

effort to be your friend. You could also be the recipient of an entourage

of “cat calls” and other annoying (some downright frightening)

unwanted attention, all from showing a little skin. Viewpoints and

attitudes of disparate societies on issues such as dress, gender, and

the body, are governed by such a myriad of influences, from religion to

the media.

Oftentimes, we might not be quick to understand or agree with

some of these beliefs or opinions, but I suppose the honour lies in our

attempt to do our best at respecting them as differences. If you want

to fight archaic, misogynist attitudes, laws and beliefs, do it from your

home country with the power of an organisation behind you.

Do not endanger yourself abroad just because you, as a Westerner,

have the right to dress as you please. Watch the women. Pay attention

to how they dress, and do your best to emulate them. I recommend

that you pack a few “conservative” items of clothing. Remember, many

places such as churches, temples and museums, require women to

cover their shoulders and/or legs before entering. Keep a low profile!

Be careful to not advertise your

alone

status. If you happen to be on a

date, or even just chatting with someone, it is always a good idea to

casually

make it known that you are “with other people” and are

“expected back.” Exercise caution when giving out information such as

where you are staying, or where you are going. The adage holds, “we

are better safe than sorry.”

Some handy items your bag of tricks might include: a whistle (in

case you need to call for help), a vial of mace or chilli spray, condoms

(in case), a wedding ring (real or fake), photos of your “husband” and

“children”, literature (even if you do not feel like reading. This is a

great “I’m busy” signal at a coffee shop), lastly, (but far from being the

least): an

alias

. It is always a good idea to have several different

names and origins for your self at easy recall. You never know when

you might

not

want to be known!

A woman travelling solo will also be the recipient of a plethora of

wonderful things such as countless acts of generosity from strangers

241

who assume that she is lonely. Enjoy these when they come, and be

careful to not indulge feelings of ‘obligation’ to anyone. Appreciation is

always sufficient reciprocation! And remember, your travels are your

very own magical story in the making, and may pave, or close the road

for other adventurous vixens. Choose your words and chapters

carefully. Now get busy! The world is waiting.

Further information

http://www.journeywoman.com

http://www.lonelyplanet.com

(Look under Thorntree)

http://www.backpackeurope.com/womentravelers.html

http://www.tips4trips.com

A Journey of One’s Own:

Uncommon Advice for the Independent

Woman Traveller

. Thalia Zepatos.

The Bad Girl’s Guide to the Open Road

. Cameron Tuttle. It is funny

and even has a basic car repair guide.

Traveller’s Tales: A Woman’s World

. Mary-beth Bond & Larry

Habegger.

Volunteer Programs

Mongolia: land of the blue sky

Lisa Poston, a third year ALT in Saitama-ken, is treasurer for the Habitat for

Humanity SIG. Since coming to Japan she has worked on Habitat projects in

a number of countries, the most recent of which was in Ulaanbaatar,

Mongolia. Here she discusses the work of Habitat and talks about her time in

Mongolia.

What is Habitat for Humanity?

Habitat for Humanity International (HFHI) is a non-profit,

Christian housing ministry, which seeks to eliminate poverty housing

and homelessness and to make decent shelter a matter of conscience

and action. Habitat has built more than 100,000 houses around the

world, providing more than 500,000 people in 79 countries with safe,

decent, affordable shelter.

Through volunteer labour and donations of money and materials,

Habitat builds and rehabilitates simple, decent houses with the help

of the homeowner (partner) families. Habitat houses are sold to

partner families at no profit, financed with affordable, no-interest

242

loans. The homeowners' monthly mortgage payments are used to

build still more Habitat houses. Habitat invites people of all

backgrounds, races and religions to build houses together in

partnership with families in need.

In recent years JETs have become involved in Global Village

projects, travelling to countries in Asia and the Pacific as volunteers.

During 2000 and 2001, 30 JET teams travelled to the Philippines, Fiji,

Papua New Guinea, and Nepal, among other countries. The teams

fundraised money, collected school and clothing supplies, and taught

their Japanese students about Habitat work on return to Japan. If

you would to learn more about the Habitat SIG, please contact the

National Coordinator at habitatsig@hotmail.com.

For general

information about Habitat for Humanity International, visit

http://www.habitat.org

What attracted you to being a HFHI Global Village team member in

Mongolia?

As soon as I learned that a team was scheduled for a project in

Mongolia, I knew I had to be a part of it. Having lived in Japan for

more than two years and been immersed in Asian culture, Mongolia

seemed like it would be a fascinating travel destination. Having no

summer plans, I thought a trip to Mongolia would not only be another

opportunity for me to participate in a HFHI GV project, but also a

great chance to experience life in a country that is virtually unknown

to the western world.

What did you gain during your experience?

In addition to sharing new experiences with the Habitat team, I

also gained a great deal of knowledge about Mongolian life from

communicating with the affiliate staff members, homeowners, and

on-site workers themselves. They shared stories about their lives

and told us of the daily struggles they have to endure. Although it is

never easy to share the stories of one's hardships, I truly felt these

people appreciated my attention and interest in their lives.

How does Global Village allow volunteers to contribute?

The difference between participating in a Habitat project and a

GV (short-term mission) project is that, with the latter, volunteers

have the opportunity to contribute the funds they have raised for a

particular affiliate and then, travel to that affiliate in another country

and experience a way of life that is different from their own. At the

243

end of these short-term missions volunteers usually have the chance

to spend a few extra days of rest & relaxation in the country before

returning home.

Can you explain a typical day on the work site?

A typical day went something like this: team members woke up at

around 7am and then made their way to the common kitchen area in

the adjoining hotel room for a light breakfast consisting of cereal,

toast, muffins, fruit, juice, coffee and tea. After filling our water

bottles from the purified water tank, we made our way to the work

site at around 8:30am. We had a snack break at 11, lunch at 1, and

another snack at 3. Several ladies with homes already in the Habitat

community prepared our daily snacks and lunches on the site.

We normally worked until 5pm. The on-site Mongolian workers

were used to a working day that started at around 10.30am and

finished between 9 and 10pm. For our project, they adjusted their

schedule to coincide with ours. On the land designated for the Habitat

community, there were already five houses built from the previous

year. The team worked on four houses during this project. The

foundations for two of the houses were already completed when we

arrived. The houses were built with wood and concrete. To make the

concrete, we retrieved buckets of water from a nearby river. The other

materials were purchased from hardware and lumber stores around

the city.

The Host Coordinator would announce job duties. Either the team

members themselves would volunteer or our Team Leader would

delegate job duties for the day. There were plenty of duties for

everyone including, but not limited to: sawing wood, hammering nails

into boards, cutting and laying strips of insulation, mixing cement,

fetching water from the river, picking and shovelling dirt, moving

debris from the site, or just being another worker's helper by passing

around tools and other items when needed. When team members were

tired of their particular job task, they were free to switch with other

members throughout the day.

After returning to our old Russian apartment complex made into

a hotel, the team members got showered and changed for dinner.

Basically, the time after the workday was our own. The Team Leader

would give us taxi and dinner money and then we were able to go

anywhere in the city on our own. Usually, the team would break up

244

into smaller groups. On occasion, though, we would get together for

dinner at a nice restaurant.

Did you learn about the need for decent housing in Mongolia? How?

While in Mongolia, I had many opportunities to witness the

despair of Mongolians living in Ulaanbaatar, Erdenet, and in the

countryside of northern Mongolia.

At the beginning of my trip, another team member gave me an

article to read about Mongolians who had to live in manholes under

the city streets. I found this hard to imagine until one day when I

saw some children coming and going out of a manhole with food for

their families. Throughout my trip, I would stumble upon many

uncovered manholes with traces of people living within them. That

site always brought tears to my eyes.

Mongolia was controlled by the Russians for many years but was

abandoned only a decade ago. Its economy was left in ruins. With no

financial infrastructure, Mongolian banks are not set up to offer loans

to prospective homeowners.

Thus, Mongols (even the middle class) are left either having to

pay for a home in full, rent from the numerous old and run down

Russian apartment buildings, or be forced to live in any number of

ger

(traditional felt tent) districts. Whether they are living in a home,

apartment, or

ger

, most Mongols live with their families comprising

up to ten members or more. During the cold winter months, the

temperature will easily drop to -40 degrees F. This makes living

conditions unbearable for those without heating, with children and

the elderly population particularly at risk.

In addition to walking through several

ger

districts, I also had the

opportunity to visit an orphanage located in Ulaanbaatar. Most of the

children there were from the streets or had parents who were in

prison. Others were left at the orphanage because their families

were unable to feed another child. Although most of the children

were half their normal body size due to malnutrition and other

medical problems, the facility itself did look surprisingly clean and

appeared well organized.

What was the best part of the project for you?

All aspects of the project were rewarding for me, whether I was

interacting with the team members, affiliate staff members,

245

homeowners, on-site workers, children at the orphanage or people in

the community. I also enjoyed getting the chance to travel in Mongolia

and to witness a part of the Mongolian lifestyle that has remained the

same for hundreds, if not thousands of years. Having the opportunity

to stay in a

ger

camp for several days and experience a part of

nomadic life was incredible. Waking up to the sight of wild horses

galloping through the steppes, watching the herds of yaks, sheep,

goats and cows grazing on the mountainsides, seeing nomadic women

milking cows, hand washing their laundry, and making traditional

steam buns in their large cooking pots was a very enriching

experience.

Any other thoughts or suggestions

First of all, if you are transiting through Beijing, China on the

way to/from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia by plane, you will still need to

obtain a Chinese transit visa. If not, you can be detained by the

immigration officials and be issued a fine. This happened to three of

our team members. A fourth member was able to purchase a transit

visa at the airport in Beijing.

My suggestion to everyone is to transit on the way to/from Seoul,

Korea. Remember that there are only two flights a week from Seoul

to Ulaanbaatar, so you may have to stay one night in Seoul for an

early departure the following morning.

Second, effective from July 18, 2001, American citizens do not

need a visa to enter Mongolia. Please contact the Mongolian Embassy

for details on extensions and requirements for other citizens.

Finally, if you have any questions regarding my HFHI GV project

to Mongolia, please contact me at madenjpn66@hotmail.com

Travel with a purpose

Angie Peltzer is an ALT in Nagano-ken. She set up a new volunteer

organization, Go Make a Difference, in May 2000.

During your time on the JET Programme you have probably had

plenty of time to travel around Asia, relax on beautiful beaches,

explore ancient ruins, and eat local delicacies. But how well did you

get to know the local people and experience the real culture of the

region? Did you feel like you were just an observer and never had

246

the opportunity to give something back to the countries in which you

ventured?

When I came to Japan as a participant in the JET Programme, I

knew that teaching was not going to be a life-long career for me. I

came to Japan to not only experience the culture of this beautiful

country, but to explore the surrounding region. As someone who was

interested in a future career in International Development, I knew

that my future travels would give me a better glimpse into life in the

developing world.

I eagerly anticipated and planned my first trip to Thailand where

I had successfully found two children's homes that were in need of

help. I was to spend a week at each home providing whatever

services I could. Five visits and a year and a half later I could never

have predicted the impact these children would have on my life. It

is because of these children that I started a web-based international

volunteer organization called Go M.A.D. (Go Make A Difference)

http://www.go-mad.org

I started Go M.A.D. with the hope of aiding small social service

projects (especially the children's homes I had just visited) that are in

need of volunteers and funding, but are unable to communicate their

needs. At the same time, I wanted to work with people who would like

to volunteer abroad, especially in South East Asia, but was unsure of

where they could go and how they could help. I was aware that

many volunteer organizations required large fees from participants.

But what percentage of such fees went towards administration costs

and what went to the actual projects was unknown to me. I

designed Go M.A.D. so that projects receive all of the donations, and

none is lost to administration; Go M.A.D. donates its time for this

purpose.

In a year and half, Go M.A.D. has grown considerably and is now

proud to work with over 25 projects in: Thailand, Gambia, Cambodia,

Democratic Republic of Congo, Philippines, Indonesia, Laos, China,

Nepal, India, Venezuela, Ecuador, Ghana, Kenya, Kyrgystan, and

South Africa. Volunteer stays can range from 3 days to one year,

depending on the project. Some projects require a donation to the

project that is essential for their survival, while others do not.

247

Volunteer duties range from teaching English, to medical services, to

carpentry, to farming.

If you are interested in learning more about Go M.A.D., please

visit our website http://www.go-mad.org

. If you are interested in

volunteering, you can apply to any of our networked projects via the

website and begin your adventure. Please keep in mind that while

Go M.A.D. continues to expand, it is me that primarily runs it, and in

my spare time. Please be patient with our services, as we try to do

our best! While our address will change once I leave Japan, we will

do our best not to only maintain Go M.A.D., but also to turn it into

something better so that it can help even more people.

A Christmas in Vietnam

Keri Damen, Nagasaki-ken

Last Christmas, instead of the usual time spent with my family

drinking eggnog and stuffing myself with food, Christmas morning I

found myself under a scorching sun in Vietnam playing with 60

orphans in a Catholic-nun run orphanage. 35 JETs from Japan who

participated in the 8th Annual Children’s Education Project were

there to hand out donations of used clothing and toys, school supplies,

candy, and Christmas Cards from Japanese students. Many JETs on

the project had worked to raise funds for the donations they took over.

Many had also worked to raise awareness of the problems in

Vietnam’s schools, but in truth, after playing games with the children,

and holding so many lovely babies in our arms, it was us who received

the true gifts in Vietnam that Christmas. The formal project runs

tentatively from December 20th to January 1

every year, (there is a

$750 U.S. fee to cover meals accommodation and in-country

transportation.). Starting in 2002, there is also a Charity and

Education Project scheduled for Vietnam and Cambodia from August

12th to August-25th.

When people say that one person cannot change the world, they

have not met Gia Hoa Ryan yet. A Vietnamese-American who lived

through the terrors of the American war in Vietnam and had her own

brother sent to a re-education camp for fighting on the ‘wrong’ side of

the war, Gia Hoa moved to the U.S. but never forgot Vietnam. Years

later she created and became the Executive Director of the Friendship

Foundation of American-Vietnamese whose goal is “to build bridges of

248

friendship” between other countries and Vietnam. Along with the

Vice-Director Joseph Meissner, a Harvard-educated lawyer who is a

veteran of the war, Gia Hoa makes a difference in the lives of many

Vietnamese through many projects in both the US and Vietnam. In

fact, in 2001, their 8

Annual Children’s and Education Project alone

touched an estimated 6000 lives.

With diverse goals aimed at helping the many groups of people

who need it, the Project participants and organisers visit many places:

orphanages, hospitals, rural villages (where they host health fairs

with volunteer Vietnamese doctors), a school to distribute

scholarships, and homes and hospitals for the elderly, war-wounded

and disabled. The Project also visits a Leprosy village and the

Montagnard Hill Tribe people. School supplies, food, medicine,

clothes and toys from both Japan and America are distributed

throughout the project.

The Project gives participants a firsthand experience with the

realities of life in Vietnam and a chance to meet many Vietnamese

people through volunteer work. However, the Project also allots time

to visit cultural and historical sites in southern Vietnam including the

Presidential Palace in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), the Saigon

Water Puppet Theatre, the Military Museum, and a visit to the

fascinating Cu Chi Tunnels and War Memorial.

After the Project, many participants opt to continue travelling in

Vietnam or nearby Cambodia and in the past the organisers have

helped participants with advice or with making arrangements for

further travel.

Friendship Foundation of American-Vietnamese

Hoi Ban Huu Hoa Ky –Viet Nam

2206 West 85

Street, Cleveland, Ohio, USA 44102

Tel: (216) 651-6748 E-mail: friendshipfoun[email protected]

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Volunteer organisations

Abbreviations

Time of Contract (TC): Short (S) Mid (M) Long (L)

Religion (R)

Protestant (P)

Jewish (J)

Catholic (CA)

Lutheran (Lu)

Baptist (B)

Christian(C)

Mennonite (M)

Quaker (Q)

Location (L0)

Worldwide (W)

Lat. America (LA)

S. America (SA)

Europe (E)

N. America (NA)

Africa (AF)

Asia (A) Australia (AU) Oceania (O)

Nature of Service (NS)

Agriculture (Ag)

Archaeology (Ar)

Business (Bu)

Children (Ch)

Construction (Con)

Conservation (Csv)

Cultural (Cul)

Disabled (Dis)

Education Ed)

Elderly (Eld)

Environment (En)

Health Care (H)

Restoration (Res)

Sanitation (San)

Social (Soc)

Technical (Tec)

Women (Wn)

Association of Episcopal Colleges

815 Second Avenue, NY, NY 10017-4594 USA Tel: (212) 986-0989

Fax: (212) 986-5039 Web Site: http://www.cuac.org

TC: S-M-L; LO: NA, LA, E, A; R: C; NS: Ch, Ed, Dis, H

Australian Trust for Conservation Volunteers

PO Box 423, Ballarat Victoria 3353 Australia Tel: (3) 5333-1483,

Fax: (3) 5333-2290 E-mail: info@atcv.com.au Web Site:

www.atcv.com.au

TC: S; LO: AU; NS: En

Bharat Sevak Samaj-Nehru Seva Kendra

Gugoan Bye Pass Rd, Mehrauli, New Delhi 30, India,

Tel: (91) 11-485-2215.

TC: S; LO: A (India); NS: Con, San, Res

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British Executive Service Overseas (BESO)

164 Vauxhall Bridge Rd., London, SWIV 2RB UK. Tel: (0207)

630-0644.

TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Bu

Canadian Federation of Student Volunteer Abroad Programs

5F 243 College St, Toronto, ON M5T 2YI, Tel: (416) 977-3703

Fax: (416) 977-4796.

TC: S; LO: NA (Canada)

Catholic Network of Volunteer Service

4121 Harewood Rd. NE, Washington, DC 20017, USA Tel: (202)

529-1100 Fax: (202) 526-1094 E-mail: volunteer@cnvs.org

Web:

http://www.cnvs.org

TC: M-L; LO: W; R: CA. Accepts members of different faiths.

Christian Foundation for Children and Aging

One Elmwood Ave. Kansas City, MS 66103-3798 Tel: (913) 384-6500.

TC: M-L; LO: W (Philippines/India); R: C; NS: Ch, Con, Ed, H

Concern America

PO Box 1790, Santa Ana, CA 92702,USA Tel: (714) 953-8575.

E-mail:concamerica@earthlink.net

Web:

http://www.concernamerica.org

TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Ag, Ed, H, San

Council on International Educational Exchange

International Voluntary Service Dept, 205 East 42nd St.,

New York, NY 10017-5706, USA

Tel: (212) 822-2695 Fax: (212) 822-2689 Web Site: http://www.ciee.org

TC: S; LO: W; NS: Ch, Con, Cul, Eld, En, Res, Soc

Global Mission Volunteers of ELCA

8765 West Higgins Rd. Chicago, IL 60631-4192, USA

250

Tel: (773) 380-2414 Fax: (773) 380-2410

E-mail:(Deb Myers):dmyers@elca.org

Web: http://www.elca.org/dgm/mispos.html

TC: S-M-L; R: Lu, P; LO: W; NS: Ed, H

EIL Cultural and Educational Travel

287 Worcester Road, Malvern, Worcs.WR14 1AB, UK

Tel: (1684) 56-2577 Fax: (1684) 56-2212

E-mail: in[email protected]rg

Web: http://www.eiluk.org

LO: W; NS; Cul

EARTHWATCH Headquarters

3 Clock Tower Place, Suite 100 Box 75, Maynard, MA 301754, USA.

Tel: (978) 461-8182 Fax: (978) 461-2332

E-mail: info@earthwatch.org Web Site: http://www.earthwatch.org

Food for the Hungry

7729 East Greenway Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85260 USA

Tel: (602) 998-3100 Fax: (602) 998 9448 E-mail: teresac@fh.org

Web Site: http://www.fh.org

TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Con, Ed, En, H

Gender Tourism and Travel - Yerebatan Caddesi

1513, 34410 Sultanahment, Istanbul, Turkey

Tel: (212) 520-52-74 Fax: (212) 519-08-64

E-mail: headoffice@genctur.com.tr

TC: S; LO: A (Turkey); NS: Con

Never Ending International Work Camps Exchange (NICE)

2-4-2-701 Shinjuku Shinkjuku - ku, Tokyo, 160-0022

Tel: (03) 3358-7140 Fax: (03) 3358-7149

E-mail: nice-do@cosmo.jah.ne.jp

251

Web Site: http://www.jah.ne.jp/^nice-do

TC: S; LO: A (Turkey); NS: Ag, Con, Csv, Cul, En, Res

Global Volunteers

375 East Little Canada Rd.Saint Paul, MN 55117 USA

Tel: (651) 482-0295 Fax: (651) 482 0915

E-mail: email@globalvolunteers.org

Web Site: http://www.globalvolunteers.org

TC: S; LO: W (Indonesia, Vietnam, China) NS: Bu, Con, Ed, H

Insight Nepal

PO Box 489, Zero K.M., Pokhara, Kaski, Nepal

Tel: (977 61) 30266 Email: insight@clcexp.mos.com.np

TC: M-L; LO: A (Nepal); NS: Ed

International Study and Service Exchange

Vakil House, 11 Floor, Sprott Rd. Ballard Pier, Bombay 400 038, India

Tel: (91-22) 2614359.

TC: S (Workcamp) ML; LO: A (India); NS: Csv, En, H

International Voluntary Service

122 Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7BG Northern Ireland, UK

Tel: (01232) 238147 Fax: (01232) 244356

E-mail: ivsni@ivsni.dnet.co.uk

TC: S; LO: W; NS: Soc, Con, Csv, En

Interns for Peace

Rehove Geula 35, Tel Aviv, 63304 Israel

Tel: (972-3) 517-6525 Fax: (972-3)517-7995.

TC: L; LO: A (Israel); NS: Bu, Ch, Ed, H, Soc

Interserve

325 Kenningtion Rd., London, SE11 4QH, UK

Tel: (0207) 735-8227 Fax: (0207) 587-5362.

252

TC: M-L; LO: A (Pakistan, India, Nepal); R: C; NS: Bu, Ed, H

International Partnership for Service Learning

815 Second Ave., Suite 315 NY, NY 10017 USA Tel: (212) 986-0989

Fax: (212) 986-5039 E-mail: psln[email protected]m

Web: http://

www.studyabroad.com

TC: M-L; LO: W (12 including; India, Israel, Philippines); NS: Cul, Sol

Involvement Volunteers Association Inc.

PO Box 218 Port Melbourne, VIC 3207, Australia

Tel: (61-3) 9646-9392 Fax: (61-3) 9646-5504

E-mail: ivworldwide@volunteering.org.au

Web Site: http://www.volunteering.org.au

TC: S-M-L; LO: W; NS: Ch, Con, Dis, Ed, Eld, En, Soc

Israel Antiques Authority

c/o Israel Foreign Ministry

Website: www.Israel-mfa.gov.il/archdigs.html

Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers (JOVC)

Hiroo 4-2-24, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150 Tel: (03) 3400-7261

TC: S-M; LO: W

Joint Assistance Centre, Inc.

PO Box 6082, San Pablo, CA 94806-0082 USA, (501) 464-1100,

Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/jacusa/index.htm

TC: M-L; LO: A (India & Nepal); NS: Ag, Ed, En, Wn, H

Kibbutz Aliya Desk

4F 110 East 59th St., NY, NY 10022 USA Tel: (212) 318-6130 Fax:

(212) 318-6134.

TC: M-L; LO: A (Israel); R: J; NS: Ar, Ag, Soc

Kibbutz Program Centre

Volunteer Department Takam, Artzi 18 Frishman St./cr. Ben Yehuda

253

Tel-Aviv, 61030 Israel Tel: (972) 3-527-8874 Fax: (972) 3-523-9966

E-mail: kpcvol@inter.net.il

Web Site: http://www.kibbutz.org.il

TC: S-M; LO: A (Israel); R: J; NS: Ar, Ag, Soc

The Lisle Fellowship

433 West Sterns Rd. Temperance, MI 48182-9568, USA

Tel: (313) 847-7126 Fax: (419) 530-7719

E-mail: mkinney@utnet.utoledo.edu

Web Site: http://www.lisle.utoledo.edu

TC: S; LO: A, Af, NA; NS: Cul

Little Children of the World

361 County Rd. 475, Etowah, TN 37331, USA Tel/Fax: (423) 263-2303

E-mail: lc[email protected].net

Web Site: http://lcw.ourfamily.com

TC: S-M-L; LO: A (Philippines); R: C; NS: Ed, Ag, H

Mahobohdi International Meditation Centre

P.O. Box 22, Devachan Leh-Ladakh, 194101, India

Tel: (91-80) 225-0684 Fax: (91-80) 226-4438. NS: Ed

Mennonite Central Committee

21 S. 12th St., PO Box 500 Akron, PA 17501-0500, USA

Tel: (717) 859-1151 Fax: (717) 859-2171

E-mail: mailbox@mcc.org

Web Site: http://www.mennonitecc.ca/mcc

TC: L; LO: W; R: C; NS: Ag, Ed, H, Soc

Moshav Volunteers Centre

28 Bailik St., PO Box 4938 Tel Aviv, 61048, Israel Tel: (972)

03-650-919.

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LO: A (Israel); NS: Cul, Soc

Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity

54a Acharya, Jagadish, Chandra Bose Road Calcutta 700-016, India

Tel: (091) 033-245-2277

Service Civil International

International Voluntary Service, 814 NE 40th St., Seattle, WA, 98105,

Tel/Fax: (206) 54-56-585 E-mail: sciinfo@sci.ivs.org

TC: S-M; LO: E, A, AF, NA; NS: Ch, Con, San, En

View Foundation

13 Hazelton Ave., Toronto, ON, M5R 2E1, Canada Tel: (800)

387-1387

TC: S; LO: W (Nepal); NS: Bu, En, Ed, Soc

Volunteers for Israel

330 W. 42nd St., NY, NY 10036 USA Tel: (212) 643-4848 Fax: (212)

643-4855

TC: S; LO: A (Israel) R: J (but all faiths welcome); NS: Ag, Ar, En, H

Volunteers for Peace

1043 Tiffany Rd., Belmont, VT 05730, USA Tel: (802) 259-2759,

Fax: (802) 259-2922 E-mail: v[email protected]

Web Site: http://www.vfp.org

TC: S; LO: W; NS: Ag, Ar, Csv, En, Soc, Res

Wildlands Studies

3 Mosswood Circle, Cazadero, CA 95421, USA Tel/Fax: (707) 632-5665

E-mail:wildlnds@sonic.net

Web Site: http://www.wildlandsstudies.com/ws

TC: S; LO: NA, A (Thailand, Nepal), O (New Zealand), E; NS: En

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Youth Charitable Organization

20-14 Urban Bank St. Yellamanchili - 531 055, Visakhapatnam

District Andhra Pradesh, India Tel: (0091) 8931-31122 Fax: (0091)

8931-31231

E-mail: bureau@md2.vsnl.net.in

TC: S-M-L: LO: A (India); NS: Ag, Ch, Con, Csv, En

Publications

Adventure Vacations

Stephanie Ocko, 1995. Citadel Press, Carol Publishing Group, 600

Madison Av, NY, NY 10022, USA, Tel: (800) 866 1966.

Web Site: http://www.citadelpublishing.com

US$14.95 + postage.

Environmental Vacations: Volunteer Projects to Save the Planet

Stephanie Ocko, 1992. John Muir Publications, PO Box 613, Santa Fe,

NM 87504, USA, Tel: (800) 888-7504 US$16.96.

Alternatives to the Peace Corps: A Directory of Third World and U.S.

Volunteer Opportunities

8th ed.,

1998, Food First Books, 398 60th St.,

Oakland, CA 94618, USA, Tel: (510) 654- 4400. US$9.95 + postage.

The Center for International Educational Exchange & International

Work Camp Directory

Updated annually. CIEE’s work camp placements. US$12.00 +

postage.

Directory of Volunteer Opportunities

Kerry L. Mahoney, 1992. Volunteer Directory, Career Resource Center,

University of Waterloo, Waterloo, ON, CN N2L 3G1. CN $10.70.

Fax: (519) 746-1309. E-mail: annm@nh1adm.uwaterloo.ca

Going Places: A Catalog of Domestic and International Internship,

Volunteer, Travel and Career Opportunities in the Fields of Hunger,

Housing, Homelessness, and Grassroots Development

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Joanne Woods, 1991. National Student Campaign Against Hunger

and Homelessness, 29 Temple Place, Boston MA 02111-9907, USA,

Tel: (617) 292-4823. US$6.25 + postage.

The International Directory of Voluntary Work

David Woodworth, 1993. Petersons Guides, Inc., 202 Carnegie Center,

Princeton, NJ 08543-2123 USA, Tel: (609) 243-9150,

International Volunteer Program Guide

Service Civil International

Updated annually. Route 2, Box 506, Crozet, VA 22932 USA, Tel: (804)

823-1826 Fax: (804) 823-5027, E-mail: sciivsu[email protected].org

Web Site: http://wworks.com/sciivs

. US$5.00 + postage.

International Workcamp Directory, (VFP)

Updated annually. International Workcamps, 1034 Tiffany Rd.,

Belmont, VT 05730, USA, Tel: (802) 259-2759 Fax: (802) 259 2922.

E-mail: vfp@vfp.org Web Site: www.vfp.org Describes 1500 placements

available through VFP. US$15.00 + postage.

Invest Yourself: The Catalogue of Volunteer Opportunities

Susan Angus, 1996. Available from the Commission on Voluntary

Service in Action (CVSA), PO Box 117, NY, NY 10009 USA,

1-800-356-9315 or direct: (718) 638-8487. Lists 200 non-government

volunteer opportunities overseas and in the US. US$8 + postage ($5

overseas).

Transitions Abroad Fact Sheet No. 36 - “Are you Ready to Volunteer?”

Four pages of advice followed by details, dates, contact addresses, etc.

of over 100 programs that you might consider. At the U.S. Consulate.

Volunteer! The Comprehensive Guide to Voluntary Service in the U.S.

and Abroad

Richard Christiano, ed. 1995. Available from CIEE. Describes over 200

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volunteer opportunities. US$8.95 + postage

International Exchange Programs

Friendship clubs

Besides organizations such as Lions and Rotary, which are

community-based organizations with vast international networks,

there are others that act like an international “Tatami Timeshare”.

SERVAS

Perhaps the foremost is SERVAS; meaning, “to serve” in that

non-language, Esperanto. SERVAS is a “family of peace builders” run

by volunteers to foster international understanding. There are over

nine thousand host addresses in about a hundred countries. Open

door hosts accept SERVAS travellers for two days/nights. Day hosts,

while not offering accommodation, help with local information. You

can join SERVAS whether or not you wish to host others. The

application process takes some time, and generally involves an

interview some three months after you apply. However, requests for

speedy approval will be considered. No one can be approved as a

traveller in SERVAS without an interview. The purpose of SERVAS is

furthering international understanding, not getting free

accommodation! Apparently a few JETs have applied in past years

without appreciating this and have caused some bad feelings.

To join in Japan, contact your regional coordinator with an 80-yen

stamp. If you are going to leave Japan soon, you may be better off to

join in your home country (although Japanese membership can be

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transferred). To find your home country branch, contact the general

secretary, or one of the following addresses:

SERVAS Japan National Secretary

Kouzo Ikeyama 、1-4-10 Hiyoshi-dai Otsu-shi, Shiga-ken 520-0112

Tel/Fax: (077) 579-2253 Website: http://www/o.big.or.jp/servas

SERVAS International

Sec.General Mr Kevin Newham

P.O. Box 1086, Airlie Beach, QSL 4802 Australia Tel: (61) 79-465605

Fax: (61) 79-465688 E-mail: sailz@whitsunday.net.au

SERVAS Europe

Coordinator: Margaret Klaser Kirchstrasse 11 D-55124 Mainz,

Germany Tel/Fax: (49) 6131-466683 E-mail: schaefer@t-online.de

US SERVAS Inc

11 John St., Suite 407, New York, NY 10038-4009, USA

Tel: (212) 267-0252 Fax: (212) 267-0292

E-mail: usservas@servas.org

Web Site: http://www.servas.org

Other friendship and travel clubs

Ligue d’Amitie Internationale (French section of the International Friendship

League - IFL),

c/o Madame Charnier, Les Champs Fleuris, 14 Rue Maurice, Boyau, F.

91220 Bretigny-sur-orge, France ( 01-60-85-34-07) Pen-friend service,

assistance to visitors to France, newsletter three times a year,

International Congress held every year in Europe. Annual

membership is 90FF, 160FF for couples, 40FF for under 16s.

Globetrotters Club BCM/Roving,

London, WCIN 3XX, UK members contact each other for information

and hosting. Fee for a listing of members is £2 per continent.

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Universal Esperanto-Asocio

Has worldwide member home-stays for Esperanto speakers

777 U.N. Plaza, Suite #1, NY NY 10017, USA (212-687-7041)

Japan Esperanto Instituto,

Waseda-machi, Shinjuku-ku 162 Tokyo Tel: (03) 3203-4581 Fax: (03)

3203-4582 E-mail: chb71944@pcvan.or.jp.

The World for Free c/o Seidboard World Enterprises,

PO Box 137, Prince St. Station, NY, NY 10012, USA, Tel: (212) 674

7018, E-mail: info@worldforfree.com

www.freeyellow.com/members2/seidboard/twfhome.html

40 countries: $25. It’s an informal system. You get a members listing

and can accept or reject people who come looking for hospitality.

Advanced notification of hosts is required. Please write for an

application before sending any money.

Home and hospitality exchanges

There are a great number of other programmes which arrange

house/apartment holiday swaps, and allow for paid or reciprocal

hosting, such as:

Worldwide Home Exchange Club

: 18-20 London Rd. Tunbridge Wells, Kent. TN1 1DA, UK

Tel: (01892) 819300 Fax: (01892) 619311

USA

: PO Box 21379 Washington, DC 20009-1379, USA

Tel: (202) 588-5057. E-mail: david.gurdon@btinternet.com

Web Site: http://www.wwhec.com

Approx. 500 listings in 32 countries (1998). You pay £50 with a

photograph. You receive a directory of registered homes that may be

for rent, exchange, or hospitality exchange (home stays).

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Teacher Swap

PO Box 454, Oakdale, NY 11769, USA Tel/Fax: (516) 244-2845,

E-mail: Tsw[email protected]

. A holiday home-swap idea specifically for

active or retired teachers. You pay US$50 to be listed and receive

three home catalogues from which to find a suitable swap. The

Invented City, The International Home Exchange Association

41 Sutter St., Suite 1090 San Francisco, CA 94104, USA

Tel: (415) 252-1141 Fax: (415) 252-1171.

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Paid home-stays

If you do not want to join one of the above clubs, or simply do not

want to plan things, you can do a paid home stay. This is particularly

useful in countries like Russia, where pre-arranged home stays

facilitate the offering of visas.

Many developed countries operate home-stay and/or “meet the

people” (short home visit) programs. You can find details through

national tourist offices, in the Alternative Travel Directory, or you can

check addresses in the very useful listings book,

Directory of Low

Cost Vacations

. J. Crawford. Pilot Books, US$5.95

• Home and Host International have home stay opportunities in

many countries. The Citizen Exchange Council, (12 W 31st St.,

NY, NY 1000, USA) arranges exchange visits with Eastern

Europe and Russia, but only for US citizens.

• The EIL has home stays in various countries. Remember to leave

plenty of time to get the arrangements made.

287 Worcester Rd, Malvern, Worcs, WR14 1AB, UK.

Tel: 01684 562577 Fax: 01684 562212 E-mail: info@eiluk.org

• American Host

PO Box 803 Garden Grove, CA 92842, USA

Tel: (800) 525-9866 Fax: (714) 537-5798

E-mail: amhstfdn@aol.com

US home stays for Europeans, New Zealanders, and Australians.

• Meet the Aussies

PO Box 442 Woolahara, Sydney NSW 2025, Australia.

Three night home stays

• Meet the Canadians at Home (via provincial tourist offices)

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• NSTS Student and Youth Travel

220 St. Paul St.,Valetta, Malta

Tel: (356) 244983 Fax: (356) 230330 E-mail: salesin[email protected]rg

Home-stays in Malta

Travel Information by Region

This section covers travel in more than sixty countries. The travelogues, all of

which were written by JETs, are intended to provide snapshots of great

locations. Although the travelogues are subjective, I hope they are also

interesting and informative. A big thank you goes out to all past and present

JETs who have contributed to this section.

The Trans-Siberian Railway

By Damian Hayes

If your sense of the epic is to go overland on one of the longest

routes there is, then this is for you. Doing the Trans-Siberian, “The

Big Red Train Ride,” “Riding the Iron Rooster,” whatever you want

to call it, is a fantastic, albeit at times, tortuous trial. It is a journey in

itself to work out the best way of getting on the thing, and then it

takes another mile or two to get through the convoluted literature.

Here is how I spent about US$ 2000 over a two-month period,

travelling from Nagano – Osaka – Shanghai – Guilin – Yangshou –

Kunming - Dali- Lijiang – Leshan – Xian – Beijing – Irkutsk –

Moscow - St.Petersburg – Warsaw – Krakow - Prague and London.

The travel costs are about the same as your flight home, plus

accommodation. It will take at least six weeks to make it worth your

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while. There are a great variety of possible routes. The best travel

information is naturally gleaned from a number of books and the

Internet. But, your first stop might be the Monkey Business website

http//www.monkeyshrine.com

I hate to dive right in to a travel agent, but their information

really is the most comprehensive and accurate of those that I have

seen. They are better for JETs because they operate our way round,

from China to Europe only. It is possible to book with them through

STA Japan, but it costs more.

Monkey Business / Moonsky Star Ltd

Chung King Mansion E-block, 4th floor, Flat 6, Nathan Road 36-44

Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2723-1376 Fax: (852) 2723-6653

E-mail: MonkeyHK@compuserve.com

Monkey Business Info-centre

Capital Forbidden City Hotel, 48 Guang An Men South Street South

Building, 3/Xuan Wu District, 100054 Beijing, China.

Tel: (+8610) 6356-2126 Fax: (+8610) 6356-2127

By boat from Japan, there are three main ways of hooking up

with the end of the train line. You can take a boat from Niigata to

Vladivostok, from Osaka or Kobe to China, or from Kyushu to Korea.

The Niigata boat is very expensive and at Vladivostok you will have to

get straight on the train. It is also much more expensive to buy a train

ticket in Russia or for the Russian end of the train. Korea does have

boats that link with China, but you cannot go through North Korea so

it is not really a direct route.

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All this means that the boat to China from Osaka or Kobe is the

easiest route to take. This arrives in Shanghai and is fantastic. You

will leave Japan from a large spectacular port with a band playing (a

recorded one) and sobbing Chinese waving you off. The ‘Suzhou’ takes

about 500 people once a week from either Kobe or Osaka.

It costs around ¥20,000 for a tatami space in a large room of

people. The food is cheap and not too bad, but you could take all your

own and have great picnics. You will arrive two mornings later in the

very centre of Shanghai, less than five minutes walk from the major

backpackers’ hotel. The visa for China is perhaps more complicated

than getting there. Monkey Business can arrange your Chinese visa

for you, but I would recommend getting STA to do it for you by post.

Shanghai really is the perfect gateway to China because it has the

best English language rail ticket centre, located in the posh hotel to

the left of the main railway station. Do not miss the city’s markets

and one of the best cultural museums in China.

Just to soften myself up for the train, I did a big loop of the

principal sights of China. The closer to Beijing, the better the trains

get. There are several rather descriptive classes: hard seat, soft seat,

hard sleeper and soft sleeper. Hard sleeper is the budget traveller’s

way to go, cheap and comfortable. Hard seat is not the way to go. All

trains have a

samovar

, a supply of boiling water. You must have a

good big metal cup, a spoon and a supply of things like pot ramen,

porridge, dried milk, tea, coffee, and so on. All these are available in

China, none of them in Russia.

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From Beijing you can go to Moscow through China or Mongolia,

or wiggle your way along the Silk Route. The Monkey Business site

suggests the ins and outs of it all. Basically, the cheapest way is to go

straight though China to Russia. As soon as you get off the train the

prices rocket—Russia can be very expensive indeed. Moreover,

Russian visas are not easy to get in Japan and very tough in China.

You will want to get off at some point as the ride is six days long

and you really do not see that much from the train. However, getting

off is not easy at all. If you want to get off, my serious budget advice is

to go with a package, preferably through Monkey Business. They do

everything for you: book by e-mail or fax from Japan, turn up in

Beijing to get your ticket, and they will look after you.

The main options are Irkutsk and Mongolia or both. Both are

good, but not quite as good as you might imagine. From Irkutsk, we

spent a few days at Lake Baikal, which was really

refreshing—fantastic food and a really good home-stay with very rural

Russian families. The same goes for the Irkutsk home-stay: you get

an excellent flavour of a different kind of Russian life.

Seeing how Russian cities are for Russians is not that pleasant.

In a family, away from a cocooned hotel, the food is not as good and

there is not much to do. Irkutsk tells a lot about life in Russia. You

are soon glad to be getting back on the train to whiz by the problems.

It is possible to book a direct ticket relatively easily from Beijing

to Moscow through China Travel Service in Shanghai or in Beijing. It

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is a third or so cheaper than through the travel agents. However, you

cannot leave the train. Most people who did this saved about $100 but

regretted it. For the train you definitely should have: cup or bowl,

spoon, knife, spare cup, lots of vodka, mixers, tea, coffee, hot chocolate,

porridge, biscuits, sugar, pot ramen (lots and lots), bread, jam, NASA

food, hell, just about anything that expands into something edible

when you add boiling water from the

samovar.

Essentials like bread,

water and fruit can be bought on platforms during stops. Whole baked

chicken and baked potatoes are available too, but make sure the

chicken is scalding and steaming hot when it comes out of the pot.

Into Eastern Europe

Moscow is fantastic. You must allow a couple of days there, and

then take the night train to St Petersburg. Again, visa

arrangements need to be made in advance, because you cannot change

them once you are there

Be very careful.

An International Student

Identification Card is useful because both cities are expensive.

St. Petersburg though, has good, cheap places to eat; you can

locate these in the English language newspaper available in the

Youth Hostel. Going to St Petersburg however, limits your way out of

Russia because of the nasty visa regimes of Belarussia and Ukraine.

You must go straight to Warsaw with a compartment full of motherly

vodka-filled Russian businesswomen.

From Poland, you are free to go where you want. The cheapest

way to London is by coach. You can get one from Warsaw, but that is

a bit far. Prague is an easy overnight train and the coach from there is

easy to get, regular, cheap and takes 18 hours. You might also

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consider Euro rail passes, which you can buy from STA in Japan. I

strongly recommend Euro bus if you have more time to get to London.

It is still very cheap (about $200 for a month) and you can buy it from

STA in Japan. It is a kind of fixed-route; unlimited-time Euro rail

for buses and it will get you from Poland to London via everywhere

else.

Advice for Trans-Siberian rail users

• The best time to make the journey is between May and

September when Siberia enjoys fine weather.

• Luggage space is very limited so pack lightly.

• If you are travelling alone use a four-berth, rather than a

two-berth compartment, to reduce the risk of being robbed.

• People wanting to deposit their luggage in your compartment may

be trying to smuggle.

• It is not unknown for Russian customs officials to board the train

and check compartments.

• At stations and stops, close and lock your windows.

• Not all carriages have shower facilities, and the only hot water

available is the scalding water for tea.

• Do not change too much money in Mongolia, as there is not much

to buy.

• A deck of cards and a chess set are good ways of meeting the

locals.

Further information

Trans-Siberian timetable information:

http://www.inyos.its.rmit.edu.au/~tbmlc/travel/places/siberia

http://www.tiglion.com

Tiglion Travel in Hong Kong for info on China

john.pannell@trans-siberia.com

Photos and firsthand info

The Trans-Siberian Rail Guide

, Robert Strauss. Covers the history of

the Tranzip. Is available from Moonsky Star Ltd.

The Big Red Train Ride,

Eric Newby

The Longest Mile,

Harold Elvin

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The Great Railway Bazaar,

Paul Theroux. Includes a section on the

Trans-Siberian railway.

Eastern Europe

Prague, The Czech Republic

By Andy Thomas and Henrietta Preiss

Like Venice or Florence, Prague is in many ways a victim of its

own success and is fast losing its charm to mass tourism. Still, there

is a lot to see and do, and the highlight for us was the castle in

Hradcany, which crowns the city. The architecture is a fascinating

mix of styles, with the medieval castle walls housing narrow streets

and an imposing, rather forbidding cathedral. A popular attraction

in the castle district is the house where Franz Kafka once lived. This

is in a little street behind the castle known as the Golden Lane, which

has multicoloured miniature houses.

From the castle, we walked down to the River Vltava, crossing

Charles Bridge, into the old city of Staré Mesto and its main square,

Staromestske Namesti. Amidst the many cafés, the famous clock

draws crowds every hour to watch the elaborate clock mechanism

chime. There is a lot of street art and general tourist knick-knackery

in the Staré Mesto and on Charles Bridge, but some traditional

exquisite Czech artefacts can be found cheaply, especially Bohemian

crystal. The old Jewish quarter of town (Josefov) is definitely worth a

visit. There is a moving and inspiring display of children’s art from

Theresienstadt, the concentration camp in the Czech Republic.

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Good, cheap cafés and restaurants abound and in the evening

there is a wide choice of both chic and traditional bars to drink in,

with good Czech beer to be had. Similarly, there are numerous

nightclubs. Cheap opera, concert and theatre tickets are easy to find.

Ask at the tourist information centre just off Wenceslas Square in the

new town (Nové Mesto)

In summer, the hostels and guesthouses fill up quickly and local

schools are turned into makeshift dormitories. For this reason, many

travellers lodge with locals. It is best to arrange this in advance if

possible, but there are lots of people waiting at the station to meet you

and offer you accommodation. It can be a cheap and different way to

see Czech life. Although most of them are legitimate, you should still

exercise caution. Prague is pretty safe, but be sure you know where

you are being taken and if you have any doubts, walk away. Be

careful of pickpockets on the subway.

Budapest, Hungary

By Henrietta Preiss

Romantic, elegant Buda and its soviet-style, commercial partner,

Pest, straddle the Danube fusing to make Budapest. At first glance,

Budapest appears to be a dreadful Soviet hangover. The drab

landscape is littered with grey concrete buildings. However, once

you reach the centre of Pest, the administrative and business heart of

Hungary, you will find a refreshingly chic, modern shopping district

that has many cafes, bars and restaurants.

270

The atmosphere is one of relaxed contentment. On the banks of

the Danube is the imposing, gothic parliament building. Across the

river sits hilly Buda, looking down on her partner as if to say, “I’m the

king of the castle,” and indeed, she would be right. For Buda is the old

part of town and is similar to Prague, minus the tourists. Cobbled

streets, fine architecture, museums and fantastic views make for a

very historical feel.

The oriental-looking Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church

perch majestically on top of Castle Hill (Várhegy) and keep watch over

the whole of the city. Immediately south is the Royal Palace and the

National Gallery. Waters from the Buda hills serve Budapest’s many

natural spas. These thermal baths are the best way to relax after a

hard day’s sightseeing. The crème de la crème of these spas is Hotel

Gellert, situated on the Buda banks of the Danube next to the chain

bridge. The mosaic-tiled interior, pillars and archways are all

reminiscent of Roman times, and the experience is quite different to a

Japanese bath.

Budapest is still a bargain travel destination not yet choked by

tourism. There are many hostels near the station, but some are in

disrepair. Food and drink are excellent, and the city has a lively

nightlife. Like Prague, however, keep an eye on your valuables.

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Krakow, Poland

By Henrietta Preiss

This elegant city is surrounded by the picturesque Tatra

Mountains—where you can ski in winter—and just oozes culture.

Small cobbled streets lead you away from the vast central market

square, Rynek Glówny.

The cloth hall Sukiennice, now a lively market, is fringed around

the outside with terrace cafes and enchanting pre-war coffee houses

and restaurants, illuminated only by candles and dimmed wall lights.

The atmosphere is something from another era, and you will almost

expect to see officers in uniform escorting lavishly gowned maidens to

their tables. Kraków’s nightlife is not something to be sniffed at

either. Polish popular culture is well on its way to catching up with its

western counterpart.

Visit the old Jewish quarter, a sobering part of Kraków, where

Schindler’s List

was filmed. Auschwitz is also nearby and should not

be missed. Kraków is a refreshing escape from the grey cities of

Eastern Europe and a chance to see real Polish country life up close.

Moscow and St. Petersburg, Russia

By Ken Januszewski

Walk around the Kremlin or near tourist areas and teenage boys

will be around hawking T-shirts, postcards, old Soviet Army hats and

just about anything that is not nailed down. The youngest of the

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salesmen are elementary school age boys and they are relegated to

selling the apparently not very profitable postcards.

Getting to the subway trains themselves reveals a little of Soviet

thinking. The tracks are all really deep below ground. The subways

double as air raid shelters. The older subway stations were crafted

very beautifully. Some have marble pillars, vaulted ceilings and

intricate chandeliers. The newer ones, however, are just poured

concrete. The train lines on the map are uniquely colour-coded. All are

white. The trains are old and thoroughly USSR grade “functional,”

meaning that it is surprising that they function at all!

At the Kremlin, I paid a guide to talk to me about the life, politics

and history of contemporary Russia, which was fascinating. We talked

for hours about our two different cultures. At the youth hostel in

Moscow, I arranged to do a home-stay with a woman in St. Petersburg.

The whole home-stay experience was very pleasant, something I could

not have hoped to duplicate in a hotel. The lady was very friendly

and her humble home was a real insight into Russian life.

I took the overnight train to St. Petersburg, costing about $20.

On my first day in there I went to the Hermitage Museum. It is an

awe-inspiring museum, beautifully constructed and decorated, and

containing art works from across the world. In addition, from almost

every window in the museum there was a wonderful view of some part

of the city.

273

When I walked around St. Petersburg, I felt the scale was

impressive. The city was made out of marshes and islands at the

mouth of the Neva River, built to withstand the rigors of time and use,

whilst remaining elegant. Recently the carefully crafted buildings

have by and large been neglected, and up close it shows. But

walking through the streets with canals separating opposing lanes of

traffic, the grandeur is still there.

The main street, Nevsky Prospect (prospect means avenue) is

non-stop bustle. People sell roses, dolls, ice cream, and young men

hold dollar signs, ready to trade roubles to dollars. I found it

important to check the rates before buying, though.

The best rate I

got in St. Petersburg was at the foreign currency window of the Astor

Hotel, not on the street, as you would think. Whenever I changed

money in Russia, it had to be a crisp clean bill. Rat-eared,

old-as-the-hills notes are like not carrying dollars at all. No one will

accept them in exchange for roubles or goods.

Further information

Ecology camps in the Urals

. Invitations for independent travel in

Russia from £84; home-stay accommodation in Moscow (US$39 per

day) all organised by: Findhorn (Liza Hollinghead) , The Park Forres,

Morayshire, IV36 OTZ, Scotland, UK Tel / Fax: (44) 1309-690-995

Host Families Association (HOFA)

, St. Petersburg

E-mail:alexei@hofak.hop.stu.neva.ru

Russian Youth Hostels

(California based) E-mail: ryh@ryh.ru

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Western Europe

Innsbruck, Austria

By Gayle Thomson

Located in the south Tyrol region of Austria is Innsbruck. A town

surrounded by mountains, Innsbruck is perfect for an outdoor short

break or as a launching pad for Italy, Germany and Switzerland. Visit

in any season for days of fun exercise in gorgeous valleys and nights of

solid beer and inner glow! Not to mention the inexhaustible café

opportunities for you and your favourite books.

Make your first stop the train station to buy an “Innsbruck card.”

This can be valid from 24 hours to a week and it provides access to all

Innsbruck's attractions plus cable car rides. It is a great money saver

and itinerary planner. Separate tram and bus passes are also

available. I found the transport system to be good value and efficient.

Accommodation in Innsbruck is well priced. The Youth Hostel, which

is opposite the train station, is clean and well managed.

Attractions not to miss include the bell museum, which is

surprisingly interesting, and the Alpen zoo (bears, wolves, and all the

other Alpen animals). Innsbruck's main theatre has some excellent

musicals and it also puts on Shakespeare; concerts are held regularly

in local churches and the cathedral; and there is a tiny arts cinema

that shows films in English. A tram ride takes you to the main

entertainment dome for bowling, cinema, pubs and fast food.

Mainstream films are shown in English on Wednesdays.

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Innsbruck's real charm is its natural beauty. A great way to get a

panoramic view of the town is to take a tram or cable car to one of the

many vantage points that the surrounding mountains provide. The

vistas are simply stunning. If you want to ski you can jump on a

complimentary bus that leaves major hotels for a free ride to the slope.

If skiing is not your thing you can still go to the slope and get a hike

pass. You can take full advantage of skiing in season and there are

excellent hiking opportunities in summer. Café culture blooms in the

old town (alt stadt). There are some lovely cafés in the town square

facing the famous golden roof.

Check out the speciality teahouse, Café Suchere, where you are

served as they were in the nineteenth century. Further into the high

street Café Vienna has superb food and pastries plus amazingly

designed toilets!

Austrian food is simple and wholesome. Specialities include cold

sausages, pretzels, a potato ball and of course pickled cabbage. Steaks

are expensive, as is wine, but restaurants are in abundance here. If

you want to take a step back into hunting parties of the past you can

go to a stag restaurant opposite the golden roof. There you can eat

surrounded by animal prizes of the past! The revolving restaurant on

top of the West Mountains serves excellent food and is great for a

romantic evening. In any food outlets you will pay your waiter at the

table. Do tip, as tips of even small amounts will be remembered.

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Pubs are also in plentiful supply. There is an excellent Irish pub

opposite the Innsbruck bank (inside the bank there is free email - just

get a bank member to admit you). A personal favourite was

"Hoftgarden", a club pub in the main park on the south side of the

river. Another must see pub is the "Sky Lounge." Take a lift behind

the Innsbruck Bank and have cocktails on the top floor overlooking

the city.

France

By Henrietta Preiss

L’Hexagone is made up of a variety of different regions and is a

very popular, inexpensive country for travellers. Do not fall into the

trap of visiting only Paris; the country has so much more to offer.

The French Alps are possibly the best winter sports region in

Europe. Haute Savoie plays host to millions of tourists in both

summer and winter. In the summer in Tignes, you can ski on the

glacier in a bikini if you so choose. Unfortunately, many of the tiny

alpine villages have been turned into monstrous resort towns, and

much of their original charm has been lost. Hiking, rafting, climbing,

paragliding and climbing are all offered in this region during the

summer.

On the hedonistic south coast, Cannes and Nice are a stark

contrast with the surrounding Province and Camargue regions. The

south coast is intensely hot and dusty in summer and alive with exotic

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flora and fauna. The Loire valley and the wine producing regions of

the west are great camping and biking areas.

Near Poitiers is Futuroscope, a cinematic theme park with quite

astonishing futuristic architecture and hands-on cinematic attractions.

Northern France is very developed in places but Brittany has many

beautiful little ports and seaside towns, splendid seafood and its own

distinct culture. Breton is still spoken there, and the link with

England is still noticeable.

Alsace retains much of its Germanic

flavour due to its periods of occupation in the past.

Paris

You will either love it or hate it, but Paris can be what you make

it. With such a wealth of monuments and famous places, real,

everyday Paris can seem quite impenetrable. The hustle and bustle of

daily life in the narrow, cobbled back streets of Montmartre, where

Parisians sit chatting over a coffee, shows the more human side to

this great city.

Some museums are closed on Mondays or Tuesdays (the Louvre is

not open on Tuesdays). In the summer months the city is really

overrun with tourists. Queuing for hours to get a glimpse of the tiny

Mona Lisa can take all the magic out of the experience. The best way

to enjoy Paris’ glorious, romantic atmosphere is just to stroll around

at your leisure, especially in the evening when the Eiffel Tower, the

Champs Elysées and Notre Dame are all floodlit and the crowds have

dispersed.

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Germany

Frankfurt

By Laura Mowbray

Boring Bankfurt and Mainhattan—lifeless business town. So goes

the reputation. Consequently, most people pass straight through and

miss out on a city with a rich cultural scene, a vibrant nightlife and

excellent restaurants. Admittedly, Frankfurt is not pretty. The town

centre was 90% destroyed in the 1944 air raids, so the key to loving

Frankfurt is by knowing where to look.

Around about the Römer there are remains of the 15th century

town hall, the façade of which miraculously survived the bombing

when all around was reduced to rubble. From the Römer it is

impossible to miss the towering red sandstone steeple of Frankfurt

cathedral, where the Holy Roman Emperors used to be crowned.

Climb the steeple on a clear day for a great view of Frankfurt. Head

south of the Römer and you come to the banks of the Main, where

boats depart regularly during the summer months on trips through

Frankfurt or places further a field, such as Mainz, Koblenz or even

Cologne. Going west of the city centre along the south bank of the

Main, there is the Museum Embankment (

Museumsufer

), which is

home to many of Germany’s national museums and art galleries

(including the world famous Städel Art Institute).

The municipal theatre, opera and ballet are very reasonably

priced with a 50% discount for holders of a student ID. The old opera

house is worth a visit for its beautiful architecture alone. Left a

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burned-out shell after WWII, it narrowly escaped demolition by the

city council in the 1970s, and is now fronted by a beautiful square

with a fountain and the gardens of the Taunusanlage leading off it.

Frankfurt takes immense pride in its favourite son, Johann Wolfgang

von Goethe and his birthplace has become a museum. The Opernplatz

is packed in the summer with people roller-blading, break-dancing, or

simply relaxing in front of the fountain with an ice cream.

If you ditch culture for something a bit more modern, the Zeil is

Frankfurt’s main shopping street, packed with department stores and

designer boutiques. The main attraction is the Zeil Galerie mall,

which seems to keep going up and up with floor after floor of shops.

There is an outdoor viewing gallery, an indoor IMAX theatre on the

rooftop and restaurants where you can eat overlooking the whole city.

The best cafés are in the student area along Leipziger Strasse in

Bockenheim. For a night out of pubbing and clubbing, try the Berger

Strasse in Bornheim—great for lazy summer evenings spent outside

on the street with a cool beer. Or head south of the river to

Alt-Sachsenhausen with its labyrinth of cobbled lanes laden with pubs

and discos.

Frankfurt is a city of jazz. The Jazzkeller in the Kleine

Bockenheimer Strasse has been attracting famous jazz musicians

from around the globe for more than 30 years. Other well-known

venues include Mampf, Blues & Beyond and the Dreikönigskeller. Try

Frankfurt’s traditional drink,

Apfelwein

—like flat cider—with

excellent German food in the Sachsenhausen area of town. From May

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to September, various quarters of Frankfurt buzz with street festivals.

Wine, food and beer tents keep the punters happy well in to the night.

Wiesbaden, Mainz, Darmstadt, Hanau and the beautiful

university town of Heidelberg are all less than an hour away from

Frankfurt by rail, so day trips and further exploration of the

surrounding area are very easy to organise. Alternatively, a trip into

the countryside to the Taunus hills north west of the city can be a way

of escaping the smog and getting back to nature. The pretty villages of

Königstein and Kronberg nestle in the hills and are a perfect starting

point for a country walk. They also offer a number of beer gardens as

a tempting finishing point. A little further a field is the spa town of

Bad Homburg. It has a 17th century castle and a large park

containing many natural mineral water sources.

Further information

The main youth hostel in Frankfurt is on the river in Sachsenhausen,

but there is plenty of other cheap accommodation available.

The Frankfurt public transport system is excellent. A day ticket

(

Tageskarte

) for DM10 covers all train and subway routes, and trams

and buses within the city.

Berlin

By Henrietta Preiss

Once a divided city, vast Berlin is one of Europe’s most vibrant

and modern capitals. Sitting on the River Spree, this city of 3.5

million people is a historian’s dream.

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The central Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirche, which was

bombed by the British in 1943, and the adjacent Salt and Pepper pot

churches in Berlin’s main street, the Kurfürstendamm, are testament

to Berlin’s wartime destruction. Similarly, the grim, grey,

Soviet-style Alexanderplatz Platz and its TV Tower are central

reminders of East Berlin’s enforced isolation. However, many of the

finest museums are to be found in former East Berlin in what is

known as the Museumsinsel. The most notable of these is the

enormous Pergamon Museum, which houses the Walls of Babylon and

the Egyptian Museum. In the former East quarter, there is the

Hackschen Höfe, a new venue for the performing arts and exhibitions.

In the centre of the town is the glorious old palace of Charlottenburg,

which survived the bombs.

Despite reunification, the physical differences and social problems

between the former west and east sections remain visible. That said,

with the return of the parliament to its former home in the Reichstag,

the announcement of the so-called Berlin Republic, and Germany’s

role in Europe growing increasingly stronger, Berlin has a lot to offer.

German youth culture rivals that of any Western country.

Wander around the centre of the city during the day or sample it for

yourself during the evening. The Berlin Film Festival is held in

February, and the Love Parade turns the city upside-down in July.

There is plenty of culture—alternative, classical and popular—to be

had. Pick up a copy of the English language

Checkpoint

magazine for

entertainment listings.

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Kreuzberg is no longer the trendy, alternative favourite it once

was. Since reunification, the underground music and art scene, trendy

cafés and alternative hangouts have relocated to Prenzlauer Berg. For

shop-aholics, do not miss the wonderful KDW department store,

whose food department puts even Harrods to shame.

Around the Brandenburg Gate, hawkers will try to sell you pieces

of the wall (which are usually fake), old East German military

knick-knackery, and lots of tourist rubbish. The real Wall is gone but

reminders of Berlin’s recent past still linger on. To the west of the

Checkpoint Charlie Museum, you can see chunks of the

graffiti-adorned wall and the former No Man’s Land. The museum

pays tribute to those who lost their lives trying to escape East

Germany. The various methods of both escape and its prevention

made for a fascinating display.

Italy

By Gayle Thomson

The contrasting cities of Rome and Florence offer the best views

of Italy. The urban nature of Rome and the rural quality of Florence

combine with beautiful wine for an unforgettable experience.

Rome

Arriving in Rome you will be faced with a bustling, gorgeous city

full of people and fantastic buildings. This is history and shopping

heaven! Finding your way from the train station is easy. Although it

is reputed to be the most dangerous station in Europe it is clearly laid

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out. Taking the main exit north, this leads onto the main road. This is

the location for cheap self-catering apartments and the youth hostel.

The south exit leads onto the bus station and subway entrance. Note

that buses run later and are better value than the subway, which

stops at 11pm.

Rome is packed with must-see attractions. St. Peter's is the

historical centre of Rome and is a great first stop. It is well worth the

money to climb the dome. You can even buy, write, and send a

postcard from the post office at the first level rooftop. From there the

view of the Vatican gardens is superb. The Coliseum is impressive

from the outside, especially with the mock gladiator guards. Behind

the Coliseum is the Forum. Here you will find some of Rome's most

famous ruins. Other relics and ruins can be found throughout the city.

The Spanish Steps area is the shopping centre of Rome. There's a

beautiful fountain at the bottom of the steps. The actual steps are

worth sitting on, if only to watch the street entertainers and the

people going by. At the top of the steps are many artists and

caricaturists. The Trevi Fountain is usually crowded but it is a must.

By tossing in a coin you will be assured to return to Rome. While

there are always more "must-see" sites to visit in Rome (there is an

almost endless number of churches, monuments, statues, ruins and so

on) it is lovely just to meander round the inner-city streets.

There are so many secluded squares with fountains, markets, and

bars to browse wine, though it will be a far cry from the wine you are

probably used to at home. Two Irish and relax in. The water, the air,

the atmosphere of being in Rome should not be missed. The little

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churches and cafés that you stumble across will be a pleasant

surprise.

Food does not have to be expensive here. Look out for deals and

set menus of pasta and ice cream. However the cheap bars are near

Piazza Navona. There is one near the Spanish Steps that has

excellent lunch deals. It is worth carrying water in bottles, as

refreshments are extortionate near the main sites.

Florence

Florence is only two hours by train from Rome. A fabulous way to

start the day in Florence is by ascending the tower of the city's most

famous basilica, the Doumo. Beautiful views of red-tile rooftops, the

river, and gorgeous mountains await you at the top.

The art galleries in Florence (Uffizi, Accademia, etc.) are very

famous and very busy. But you can avoid ticket queues by booking in

advance on the Internet. That great tourist favourite, Michelangelo's

David

, can be found at the Accademia.

Again, while there are many tourist attractions to see, Florence is

also about strolling. If you take a bus to the Piazzale Michelangelo,

you will be awarded with a spectacular view of the city. This main

viewpoint is a popular spot for wedding photos. It also has great

outdoor cafés. Near here is the youth hostel, a beautiful Tuscan villa.

Florence's infamous Ponte Veccio Bridge, one of only two in the

world to be covered in shops, is worth a browse. Inevitably, food and

drink is pricier here. Regardless of where you are eating, it is a good

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idea to hit the restaurants at around 8pm. That way you can get

tables that were reserved but have been cancelled. As the sun sets,

feel the heat and passion of Italian music, food, architecture and life.

Spain

Lazy days and nights in Madrid

By Jim Frank

Transport in the capital of Spain is cheap and reliable. I took the

metro (subway) everywhere, because it is easy to use. In the six

months that I rode it, the pickpockets tried to get me only

once—supposedly I was lucky. When spring comes, the Spanish, like

most Mediterranean people, can be found sitting outside in a café, bar

or park talking animatedly to one another.

It took me some time to gain a sense of direction in the

often-winding streets of the city, but my efforts were rewarded by the

discovery of many unique places. One I distinctly remember is near

the Plaza Major, and is reputed to have been a hangout of Ernest

Hemmingway. It has a sign outside that says, “We don’t speak

English, but we won’t laugh at your Spanish.” That bar is in the

neighbourhood of some of the funkiest old taverns Madrid has to offer:

the

mesones.

They are all located on the outside wall of the Plaza

Major, down the steps. There are all types of

mesones:

mushroom,

pork, snail, and so on. Each specialises in one entrée served with

sangria. My friends and I liked the

champiñones

(mushroom)

meson

best. The old man at the keyboard played like there was no tomorrow

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and the sangria washed the mushrooms down well. Saturday

afternoons were often spent at the art museums because it is the only

day that there is no entrance fee. The vast collections on display at

the Prado, Reina Sophia and Thyssen museums are all within

walking distance of each other and the metro stop.

There are many day trip possibilities from Madrid as well. Toledo

is the home of Spanish sword makers, and Salamanaca has one of the

oldest universities in the world. Quenca and Avila are also nearby.

The most enjoyable festival in the region was Las Fayas in Valencia.

This is a weeklong celebration at the beginning of April, culminating

in the torching of enormous floats. For months preceding the festival,

various neighbourhoods spend millions of pesetas to build these floats

out of papiér maché, balsa wood and wax, only to have their creations

set aflame. My only caution is that you make your stay in Spain short

enough so that you do not fall in love with the place and never want to

leave.

Granada

By Stacey Kerns

I tricked my friends and dragged them through Spain for this

single city. It is off the beaten path from the highly travelled Madrid

to Barcelona backpacker route. Situated on a main agricultural

plain in the south, it is not anywhere near the ocean. Even so, if I

could live anywhere, I would live here. Granada is a fabulous place to

visit. It is a large city in the provinces, so it feels more Spanish than

Madrid. Though it lacks the nightlife of Barcelona, it is a rest from the

Gaudi inspired architecture of that city.

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The main attraction of Granada is La Alhambra. La Alhambra

is an old fortification and palace that sits on a hill over-looking the

city. Everything was built by the Moors—the palace, the battlements

(La Alcazaba), and the gardens (Generalife). It served as the seat of

Arabian culture throughout the Middle Ages. As a palace, La

Alhambra is an architectural delight that is based upon the elements

of light, space, air and water. Artisans and masters carved marble

and alabaster so that they appear to have no weight at all.

Fountains and reflecting pools are incorporated into the design of

every part of the building.

Specifically, the Court of the Lions is amazing in the symmetry of

its arches and columns, but my personal favourite is the Patio de los

Arrayanes. When I walked into the open courtyard, I felt as if a bat

had hit me. Was it the tapas I had for lunch? Was it perhaps a past

life resurfacing? No. It was simply that beautiful.

Alcazaba is more prosaic, with its practical defences of turrets

and battlements, but the Generalife picks up the theme of space and

water again with reflecting pools nestled in manicured gardens.

Granada isn’t only La Alhambra. It has a beautiful cathedral that is

near La Longa, an ancient open-air market that has traded the fine

silks and exotic Moorish delights for souvenirs, but still a sight to be

seen. Outside of town are the Caves of Sacromonte, where gypsies

used to make their homes. Now the caves have been converted into

stores and club venues, where you can see flamenco performances.

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Granada also has a bull-fighting arena, for the more bloodthirsty

traveller.

Nightlife centres on the tapas bars where you can find great eats

for cheap. There are, of course, plenty of restaurants too, with the

priciest being closest to La Alhambra. There are regular trains to

Granada from Madrid and Barcelona, including a night train from

Madrid. It is a good bet for the traveller who has a Eurail pass, or

for anyone who does not have the time or money to spend on a hotel.

In Granada itself, there is not much in the way of bus

transportation and driving on the narrow streets in inadvisable.

However, the city is small enough to walk, so transport should not be

a major problem. The hapless friends that I dragged along later told

me that Granada was one of the best places they had been. I

recommend Granada for any traveller who wishes to experience a bit

of ‘real’ Spain without leaving behind the comforts and entertainment

of a larger city.

A great English web site for information on La Alhambra is at

http://www.alhambra.org

. It explains how to obtain tickets and when

it is open, and also has pictures of the palace. It also has a link to

the Granada city homepage.

Seville

By Ariën Koorn

Once the primary port of embarkation for ships bound for the

New World during Spain’s Golden Age, this city has seen a colourful

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(if blood-stained) array of explorers, conquistadors, and legends set

sail and then return with the plunder of the Americas’ gold. The

lighthouse in the harbour, the Tower of Gold, takes its name from the

fact that it was once completely gilded and shone brighter in the

daylight than at night.

The Giralda, a Moorish bell-tower, still stands above the city,

affording a bird’s-eye view of the Alcazar and its lush gardens, the

sweeping, modern bridges built to commemorate the World Fair in

1992, and the powerful gothic cathedral that dominates the centre of

the town. The Cathedral is the second largest in the world and houses

the elaborate black marble tomb of Christopher Columbus.

I was there during Holy Week, when groups of robed and hooded

penitents walk barefoot through the cobbled streets. They bear figures,

heavy with silver and gold, of the Virgin Mary or the Macarena (the

patron saint of the city, not the dance). For this event, the streets are

lined with hordes of people, although I had the good fortune to be

inside the Cathedral itself to see the beginning of one of the many

processions. The sound of shuffling feet, candles barely piercing the

gloom under the massive arches, smoke from the incense burners

wreathing the spectre-like hoods and robes of the marchers, the

stillness shattered by trumpets heralding the opening of the

doors—some memories defy description.

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Switzerland

By Henrietta Preiss

A healthy, wealthy, and wise country sandwiched in the middle of

Europe’s big boys, little Switzerland has much to offer the

outdoors-enthusiast. It is stunningly beautiful and conveniently

located for exploring the rest of Western Europe.

Hiking, climbing and water sports are the order of the day in

summer, and in winter Switzerland is one of the safest places to learn

to ski or snowboard. Being mostly alpine, the country has many ski

areas to choose from. Klosters and St. Moritz are the most famous.

One of the best things about Switzerland is its blend of cultures

due to its four different languages. Tourism is big business. For this

reason and due to environmental concerns, motorized vehicles are not

allowed in many of the alpine villages. So despite often being

über-kitsch

tourist traps, these villages retain some of their simple,

traditional charm.

The Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch mountain range near Interlaken

in west Switzerland is magnificent in any season. Take a train up

the highest railway in Europe (no cars allowed) to Wengen and

Kleiner Scheidegg for skiing in the winter and hiking in the summer

and then on to the summit at 3454m. The ice sculptures inside the

Jungfrau itself are quite astonishing.

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Bern and Geneva are very exclusive up-market towns, but

Geneva, sitting gently on the shores of Lac Léman, is a very calm and

friendly place. A short walk from the serenity of the lake with its

famous

jet d’eau

is the UN building, which you can tour. Whilst in

Switzerland, make sure you try the local cuisine. Fondues and raclette.

Both made from Swiss cheeses, they are unique and delicious.

The Americas

The Americas by bike

By Jo Macgregor (Canada and the US - Peru - Chile - Argentina - Brazil -

New Orleans)

Planning

It is important to take into consideration seasonal weather

patterns when planning your route. Sorting out the red tape is also

time consuming. I advise writing to embassies about visa

requirements.

This is especially important if you are cycling, as you

often do not meet the "onward or return ticket" requirement.

In South

American countries, make sure you get your passport stamped on

entry and exit, or you could face a fine. As far as money is concerned, I

always had an emergency supply of U.S. dollars and traveller’s checks.

Mostly though, I relied on my bankcards (Cirrus, Plus, and Visa). I

found it very useful to have cards covering both networks, as some

countries seemed to have only one or the other. Any large city in

South America will have Tam’s, where you can withdraw US dollars

or local currency. Make sure you get enough out to last you until you

reach the next big city.

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I needed a battery of immunizations before this trip. Make sure

you allow plenty of time, as many need booster shots up to 6 months

later. The World Health Organisation (http://www.who.int

) publishes

an up-to-date list of requirements for all countries, or you can check

with your doctor. For South America, and because I was cycling, I got

additional shots of rabies and yellow fever. Bear in mind that yellow

fever shots are usually only available in a few locations in any

country.

In terms of physical preparation, make sure you have a vague

idea of your limitations, and the effect that different terrain and

weather conditions will have on your daily mileage. Then there is the

issue of gear. This is a list of what I had after cycling through North

and South America:

Mountain Bike: I prefer cromoly steel frames, which can be

welded anywhere. These frames usually have a good mix of strength

and lightness and are great for any terrain. Good gears and good

brakes are a must—pay the extra for a decent brand. A really strong

steel rack is essential. I found Nitto to be the best make. Semi-slick

tires are good for the USA and Canada, while knobblies are best for

most of Central and South America.

Baggage: 2 rear panniers (waterproof); handlebar bag; canoeist

waterproof wet bag (bungied on top of rear rack); camelback for water.

Camping Gear: Tent (free standing, two person); sleeping bag (a

warm one!); Thermorest, pot, cutlery, penknife, MSR stove and fuel

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(you can use varied types of fuel with this stove); headlight; food (a

lot!); camp towel.

Clothes: Obviously clothes to cover any possible weather variation.

Raingear (I had a Goretex jacket, pants, socks and gloves), warm hat,

additional socks and gloves, sunglasses and hot weather cycling gloves,

fleece and many layers of thermals. Cycling shorts and tops, spare

civilian clothes, swimsuit, sandals and sneakers.

Bits and Pieces: High-factor sunscreen, maps, guide book,

toiletries, toilet paper, camera, insect repellent, journal, money belt,

first aid kit, bike bag.

Tools and Spares: Pump, lock, spare tire and tubes, puncture

repair kit, spare cables, brake pads, spokes, nuts and bolts, oil, grease,

rags, allen keys, spanners screw drivers, spoke tool, chain breaker,

pliers, multitool.

Maps for developing countries are best bought from a developed

country, and even then should be taken with a pinch of salt!

The Cycle Touring Club, Cotterell House, 69 Meadrow,

Godalming, Surrey, GU7 3HS, UK, has a lot of valuable cycle touring

information from all over the world.

North America

After getting used to American-sized food portions, exploring

Haight-Ashbury and riding the streetcars, I cycled out of San

Francisco over the Golden Gate Bridge. I got completely lost riding up

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and down steep inclines toward what I thought was Golden Gate

Bridge but actually turned out to be the Berkeley Bridge. Realising

my mistake, I turned around and took on San Francisco’s rush hour

traffic towards the Golden Gate Bridge. When I eventually found the

long and winding road up the mountain to the campground it was

already getting dark.

Everything got easier after that inauspicious start. My planned

route was to cycle north to Jasper, Canada and zigzag down through

the Rocky Mountains. Heading north from San Francisco along

State Highway One, I met many cycle tourists going in the opposite

direction, as it is a common cycle thoroughfare along beautiful

coastline.

There is a good discount system in US State Parks, where people

without motorized transport pay only $1-$3 for a "hiker/biker"

camping spot. They are always in wonderful locations and are great

places to meet other travellers. Northern California encompasses a

range of scenery, from the coast to the towering redwood forest.

People everywhere in the western US were easy-going, friendly and

welcoming. Crater Lake National Park in Oregon was breathtaking.

The national parks have entry fees of between $5 and $10. I cycled

through the beautiful scenery of the Cascade Mountains, around Mt.

St. Helens and Mt. Rainier and up to Seattle in an unrelenting heat

wave.

Canada is an outdoor lover’s paradise: there are numerous

national parks for hiking and biking. The West Coast Trail in BC

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and the Chilikoot Trail in the Yukon are two of the most renowned

hikes, both taking five to seven days. The skiing season usually begins

at the end of November and lasts through April. BC’s Whistler,

Blackcomb, Seymour, Grouse and Washington resorts and Alberta’s

Banff, Kananaskis and Jasper are reputedly the best.

There is one main domestic airline, Air Canada. However a

regional airline called WestJet often has better prices. Sometimes Air

Canada has discounts for advance booking and under-25s. Greyhound

buses are a cheaper but limited option. The VIA Rail Canadian

crosses country from Vancouver to the Maritimes. Website:

www.viarail.ca

From Seattle, I took a ferry to Victoria on Vancouver Island and

saw perhaps the most beautiful scenery I would see during my eight

months on the road. There are snow-capped forested peaks wherever

you look on a ride that takes you from seaside to

toy-town-fantasyland-ski-resort. Heading north into the wilderness,

the gradients increased to 15% and bear warnings became prolific.

Needless to say, I bought the standard issue pressurized bear spray in

the next town. This made me feel much better. I never saw a single

bear, but the spray did come in useful for the packs of hungry dogs

that attacked me in Mexico.

The Icefields Parkway between Jasper and Banff is cycle central,

where you get to meet cyclists from all over the world. There are a

couple of passes along the way, as well as glaciers, mountains, lakes

and assorted wildlife. It has to be said that the whole area is

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absolutely stunning. Banff is an outdoors playground where you can

try anything—for a price. There are a few campgrounds on the

peripheries of town with public transport connecting them to the

centre if you cannot be bothered to cycle.

For the next month I zigzagged through the Rocky Mountains,

through the thermal wonderland of Yellowstone, the mountainous

grandeur of Grand Teton National Park, and all of Utah and Colorado.

There are campgrounds, national and state parks, and glorious free

camping spots all along the way. Whenever I went off-road, though, I

ran the risk of trudging through the clay-like mud that clung to our

bikes. Colorado is beautiful. The first stop was Mesa Verde, "Green

Hill," National Park in the southwestern corner of Colorado. It is a

wonderful mix of forest and Native American caves—a special place.

From there, I went through an Indian reservation in northern Arizona.

It felt like a different country.

I headed west to see the Grand Canyon. Dawn and dusk are the

best times to see the canyon. It is very scary when viewed from the

rim, albeit glowing with the most beautiful pastel shades under the

sun. I headed south to the Sonoran Desert that straddles Arizona

and Mexico. It is known as the living desert, possibly because of the

large variety of desert plant life it supports, or possibly because of all

the snakes and tarantulas waiting ominously by the side of the road.

The American Southwest is full of thorns, which cause punctures like

there is no tomorrow. I had six in one day. Luckily the local bike

shops all have "thorn resistant tubes." It is a bit complicated to get

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them fitted and they are heavier than normal tires, but it was the best

investment I made on this trip, as I didn't have another puncture.

After the Sonoran desert, I hit the coast of Mexico and wound my

way down through idyllic seaside villages with gorgeous beaches. The

laid-back attitude to life is infectious. Mexico City is a fun place and

the people are wonderful. On the outskirts are the ancient ruins of

Teotihuacan, including the pyramids of the sun and moon, which are

certainly worth a day trip.

Peru

The Gold Museum in Lima is certainly worth a look, but overall

the city has a desperate, dismal feel to it. I headed straight up into the

Andes. The road goes from sea level to the 4818m Ticlio mountain

pass in about 140km. Although the road was paved, I was trying to

adjust to the increasing altitude so I spent the first night at 2400m in

Matucana. I met another cyclist there and the next day we rode to

the top of the mountain. It was not very far, but the altitude slowed

us down a lot. It took nearly all day to reach the top, feeling every

pedal stroke and gasping at every breath. We zoomed 1500m down the

other side to La Oroya. The landscape at the top was amazing with

lunar-like glaciers and frozen lakes. The next day we followed the

dirty river to Huancayo, which marked the end of the paved roads and

the beginning of a myriad of trails to Ayacucho. We went up and up.

Some of the roads I can only describe as steep, dried up

riverbeds. At many of the villages we were told to take shortcuts,

which invariably resulted in beautiful scenery and tiny indigenous

villages, despite even worse roads! Sometimes kids on claptrap old

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bikes would ride with us for a while. People were always so helpful to

us, pointing us in the right direction and giving us shelter from the

rain that sometimes turned the roads into mudslides. Ayacucho is a

colourful university town with great markets. From there I continued

solo to Cuzco. The road went up and down between 2000m and 4300m

six times on more dubious surfaces. This area of Peru is very poor. It

also has a lot of passport control stops because of the Shining Path

group that originated here.

I got sick once while riding, and found myself sitting in the

middle of a town square, doubled over in pain. Within two seconds,

the whole village was looking after me. They found me a bed, brought

me food and gave me lots of herbal tea. I think I got well just on their

good will. Cuzco is the former seat of the Incan Empire. Set aside two

days for wandering around the old, windy streets. Cuzco is the tourist

town in Peru. It is in close proximity to many famous ruins, beautiful

hiking trails and bustling markets, and you can organise any kind of

adventure tourism you wish. It is an oasis for travellers in Peru.

After saying a sad farewell to Cuzco and climbing one last high

pass, I hit the altiplano, a flat, treeless plain at 3800m. The main

inconvenience of this terrain was the lack of hiding places in which to

relieve one self. It was the first time I had truly appreciated the

wisdom and practicality of the grand voluminous skirts the local

women wear!

Chile

I wandered around Santiago awe-struck for the first few

days—everything seemed so clean and in working order. There were

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things to buy in the shops and hot showers at my disposal. I got my

bike fixed and headed south.

Chile is a delightful place to bike. Everywhere I went, there were

orchards and willow trees and vineyards, an abundance of fresh fruit

by the roadsides, perfectly symmetrical snow-capped volcanoes, lakes,

forests, rivers and cyclists galore. Mostly we free-camped, took some

smaller dirt roads around the lakes district and met still more

generous Chileans who gave us honey, berries and all matter of food

and drink on a daily basis. All of it the best we had ever tasted.

Argentina

Crossing the border into Argentina was spectacular. Argentine

skies are so blue they almost make your eyes water. Up in the Andes,

the wind in Patagonia is ferocious. I was blown off the road more than

a few times as well as, on one occasion, being blown to a standstill

pedalling downhill. Away from the shelter of the Andes, I met some

Argentine cyclists going in the opposite direction. They were heading

south on a mission to plant Argentine flags on parts of Chile they felt

belonged to them.

I kept following a series of rivers and dams northeast through

Patagonia. I came across the odd tiny town, and one place that held

the largest dinosaur bones in the world. I stopped for their

wonderful ice cream shops (

heladeria

), where I was always taken in,

fed, introduced to their friends, interviewed by the local media, given

e-mail access and made to feel as though I could never leave. I

encountered this kind of hospitality all over Argentina.

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The Pampas was never-ending flatness, insects, sunflower fields

and more skin-sizzling sun. Buenos Aires is a fabulous city. The

atmosphere is a mélange of European, Latin American and New

World influences, where art in all its forms is very much alive and

kicking. Riding north, the wildlife by the side of the road grew more

exotic—anteaters, strange insects, snakes and butterflies of every

conceivable colour and design. Do not miss the mammoth Iguacu

waterfalls. See the Argentine side first, as the Brazilian side defies

description.

Brazil

Rio is another fantastic city. I did not feel unsafe at all, although I

heard lots of bad stories. I stayed at the Copacabana Praia Youth

Hostel, owned by the jovial Carlos. Sugar Loaf and the Cocovado have

amazing views of the city, and there is a plethora of famous beaches,

great nightlife, and the

joie de vivre

of the people is infectious. I do

not think it is possible to go to Rio and not fall in love with it.

Back to the states: New Orleans

I flew from Rio to New Orleans via New Jersey. I really enjoyed

New Orleans. It is a total party town. Bourbon Street comes alive

every night and the whole city has a wonderful atmosphere. There is

music inside, music outside, music wherever you go. There are loads

of tourist things too: swamp tours, food tours, plantation house tours

and Mississippi River tours - it is endless! My overall impression of

the cycling I did in North and South America is how wonderful the

people were everywhere. The scenery was sublime, and the freedom

you experience on a bicycle is unparalleled.

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Further information

http://www.ibike.org/travel.htm International Bicycle Fund

Journey Latin America: sales@journeylatinamerica.com.uk

http://www.latinworld.com/countries

links to the Latin world

Bolivia

By Jeff Carpenter

A possible base for Lake Titicaca is Copacabana in Bolivia. It is a

four-hour bus ride south of Puno, just on the other side of the

Peru/Bolivian border. This might be a wise choice for the budget

traveller as Bolivia is much cheaper than Peru. Half the population

is of indigenous descent and most speak Quechua or Aymara. There is

an interesting mix of Catholicism and traditional religious beliefs,

including devil worship. Clothing is very colourful, but it is a poor

country and many people eke out an existence on the land with their

llamas. La Paz is the highest capital in the world and should not be

missed. http://www.planeta.com

Canada

In the heart of Quebec province

By Katia Theriault

I have spent most of my life in this beautiful Canadian province,

and each time I visit a different region, I find new places to admire

and new people with which to share things. Of all the interesting

places I’ve been to, Montreal remains the jewel of all cities.

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Montreal is an eclectic, cosmopolitan city with a population of

about 3 million people. It is well known as a bilingual city, which

means you can speak either French or English. Within the city there

are many cultural “villages” or areas that are marked with the

essence of different countries and cultures.

You can enjoy a little piece of Greece, Brazil, Portugal, Chile,

Haiti, Morocco, Tunisia, Vietnam or China without having to leave

the city limits. Montreal’s nightlife is amazing. There are many places

to go, and it’s easy to get around, thanks to the close proximity of all

entertainment areas and the excellent all-night subway, bus, and taxi

services. It is possible for anyone to spend the evening at 4 or 5

different places. You should start with areas such as St. Laurent, St.

Denis, Ontario, St. Catherine, and Crescent. Whether kind of music

you like you will find a venue with the company and atmosphere to

suit your taste. However, not all places can be found in these streets

and if you have time you might like to explore the depths of Montreal

with a few friends to find the greatest lounge hidden between two

skyscrapers.

Visitors to Montreal are usually incredibly surprised about how

safe they feel both during the day and at night. It is true that

Montreal doesn’t have a past history of heavy violence and crime, but

neither is it the city of angels. It is very safe for women, but like

anywhere else you do not want to put yourself in a situation of danger.

You can be wise and still party hard until 4 or 5 am.

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If you desire some peace and tranquillity, Montreal can provide

that too. Behind a busy street of shops, cafes and restaurants, you can

always find a quiet park where young people are having a picnic, older

couples are taking a walk, and the laughter of children fills the air.

Parc du Mont-Royal, for example, is only a few minutes walk from the

lively St. Denis Street and is located on a hill overlooking the city.

Here, on Sundays during the summer, you can listen to open-air drum

and tablas performances by professionals and amateurs alike.

Using your own instrument, you can join in if you feel like it. The

atmosphere will remind you of the 60’s and the scents floating in the

air will make you wonder whether you are truly in Montreal or

somewhere in Amsterdam. After a day of intense drumming you can

climb up the hill to get a night view of the beautifully illuminated city.

Low budget travellers will be delighted to know that living and

travelling in Montreal can be quite cheap. It has plenty of budget

hotels, B&Bs, youth hostels, YMCAs, and low-budget restaurants and

cafés.

The best time to visit Montreal is in the summer. The majority of

the city's special events are scheduled between June and July. No

matter how long you visit, there is bound to be at least one festival in

progress. The most popular ones are: the Jazz Festival; Just for

Laughs Festival; The International Beer Festival; Benson and Hedges

Fireworks competition; the African Festival; and Francophiles. The

best thing is that most of these festivals offer free, open-air

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entertainment. If you have some money and time left, do not miss the

Botanical Garden, Bio-dome, Insectariums or La Ronde attraction

park.

Montreal has rhythm and variety. At any time of the day or night

you can find something interesting to do or experience. It is true that

from a distance it looks like any typical North American city, but after

a closer look you will realise that it is tinted with a touch of exoticism

and artistic delirium.

Colombia

By Jeff Carpenter.

Cartagena de Los Indios

Cartagena de los Indios has some of the best colonial Spanish

architecture in South America, surrounded by 15 feet-wide walls that

served as a defence against Caribbean pirates. During the day, the

colonial district bustles with commerce, the people seemingly

energized by the brightly painted, multicoloured buildings. At night, a

new mood takes over as soft lighting illuminates the walls and

buildings. It is quite sublime to walk along the top of the massive

walls, with a warm breeze rolling in off the Caribbean Sea on one side

and the majestically lit buildings on the other. Strains of music from

the salsa clubs, which throw their windows open to the Caribbean and

pump out a mesmerizing mix of Latin American rhythms, are just

perceptible in the distance.

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Southern Colombia

The south of Colombia provides an opportunity to recuperate from

the Cartagena debaucheries, up in the Andes. Lucky people will find

their arrival in Popayan coincides with Holy Week, during which the

nightly processions are highly religious. No one will be drunk or

wearing loincloths and shouting “Washoi!”

Fully uniformed and gun-toting military bands provide all the

music in an interesting combination of South America’s two strongest

institutions, the Catholic Church and the military. Popayan is

interesting by day, with too many art galleries and churches to keep

track of. To the east of Popayan are two impressive archaeological

sites, Tierradentro and San Augustin. Expect a lengthy ten hours for

the 200-km ride from San Augustin to Popayan on the local bus. I got

to stand on the back bumper, holding on to a metal rail.

It might be more feasible, although more expensive, to hire a

jeep with some others. San Augustin overflows with pre-Incan

monolithic stone statues. The well preserved, elaborately arranged

stones make Stonehenge look quite dull. Tierradentro is a series of

underground tombs, featuring elaborately carved pillars and painted

ceilings. From Popayan, luxurious buses will whisk you south to

Impales on the Ecuadorian border.

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Ecuador

By Jeff Carpenter

Ecuador is hard to beat, combining variety and safety at a very

affordable price. Coming from the south of Colombia the first Andean

town of note will be Otavalo. This town’s world-class, hypnotic music

and multi-coloured weaving can be found other places, but nowhere as

reasonably priced as in Otavalo.

An hour south of Otavalo lies another of South America’s gems,

Quito. Surrounded by 19,000 foot-high volcanoes and home to both a

quaint colonial district and energetic new town, Quito has something

for everyone.

A four day tour to Cuyabeno (organised by any travel agent in

Quito for approx. US$300 per person) could include fishing for

piranhas, eating lemon ants, seeing fresh water dolphins, crocodiles,

snakes, a mind-boggling assortment of plant-life, trees sagging under

the weight of hundreds of monkeys…it is a jungle. Do not miss the

hot springs at Papallacta, near the pass over the Andes.

The Galapagos

By Jeff Carpenter

Two kinds of tours go to the Galapagos. The typical, more

luxurious tour booked from outside Ecuador through a travel agency,

is a boat tour. Prices for a five to six day tour begin at about US$1100.

The second option is a land tour. A six or seven day-tour costs starts

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at US$700. Both include Quito/Guayaquil-Galapagos return airfare.

Book in Ecuador. From the Galapagos, take a bus from Guayaquil to

the Peruvian border.

Mexico

The Yucatan peninsula

By Nicola Hopkins

The classic Maya lowlands and neighbouring Chiapas states are

extremely rich in ruins of various periods. It is more rewarding to

select a couple of sites like Chichén Itzá and Palenque, which despite

both being Mayan sites, are quite different. Explore them fully

rather than trying to see each and every pyramid in the area.

Sites on the Yucatan Peninsula range from Tulum, overlooking

the turquoise Caribbean, to the astounding Toltec-influenced Maya

ceremonial site of Chichén Itzá, an easily accessible day trip from

Cancun and Merida. Highlights of Chichén Itzá are the principal ball

court and the main pyramid, known as both El Castillo (The Castle)

and as El Templo de Kukulcán (Temple of Queztalcóatl, the plumed

serpent). There is little shade or wind at Chichén so take a midday

siesta and visit the site early in the morning or in the late afternoon.

The Chichén Itzá Archaeological Zone is open from 8am to 5pm. In

general, it is not well sign-posted. Rumour has it that this is to better

support the guides working inside the zone.

Another principal Mayan site is Palenque in Chiapas state. In

complete contrast to Chichén, Palenque is a physically challenging,

site full of streams, waterfalls and rich tropical forests. Despite its

great importance to the local Mayan tribes, Palenque remained

hidden from European explorers until the latter half of the 18th

century. Due to the huge scale of the site and its jungle setting,

reclaiming the temples and structures has been a tremendous mission.

Many of the less central structures remain partially excavated, some

with ancient trees growing through them.

If ruins of ancient civilisations are where your interests lie, this

region of Mexico is definitely for you.

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Africa

Morocco

By Brett Hetherington

Morocco is a mixture of several cultures. There is a lingering

French influence, the bustle of the Arab world, the historical

remnants of the Moors, a sprinkling of indigenous Berbers, and the

exoticism of Islam.

This country is one of the more broadly progressive, and even

somewhat cosmopolitan, Moslem nations (although free speech

continues to be repressed). Travellers are unlikely to be harassed by

the police, though the attentions of strangers can be a bit much at

times (do not be surprised if someone invites you to stay in their

home). Most travel books tend to recommend that you hire a guide but

in the towns and cities at least, my partner and I did not find it

necessary. The language barrier is only significant if you don't

understand any French at all. Even if that is the case, there are

plenty of English-speaking guides and sometimes they will magically

appear once the locals see that you might be interested in spending

some money.

In small towns the guides might never mention the thorny issue

of cash but instead take you around various shops where you are

expected to purchase a few items (like expensive carpets, they hope).

In return, the guide gets a financial "kickback" from the owner. In

Morocco the "souqs" or "medina" markets are fantastic places to shop

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or simply people watch and they provide a refreshing change from the

sanitized indoor malls we've all become used to. It can often be

difficult to find your way around in them. However, getting lost can be

half the fun. You can always stop someone and ask him or her to take

you to a known landmark (after agreeing a small fee for services

rendered, of course. Ballpoint pens seemed to be a welcome reward for

school children).

The desert

We made our way from Marrakesh to the transport hub of

Ouazazte. It is a wonderful journey. Travelling by bus you gradually

climb, then plunge down the sharp hairpin bends of the spectacular

Atlas Mountains, which are often tipped with snow. Then you

suddenly find that you are travelling across flat, dry plains as you

approach Ouazazate.

To get from Ouazazate to the most stunning deserts it is

necessary to go to the town of Zagora. You can hitch or hire some

wheels; fortunately, there are plenty of places to do just that. The

five-hour drive to Zagora is never dull: the scenery is gorgeously stark

and truly unique. Zagora is the place to hire a guide. When you get to

the desert you will definitely need one, given the extreme

temperatures that can occur and the potential for getting into

difficulties. The local Twareg Berbers—known as the "bluemen"

because of their distinctively coloured jelaba gowns—are often the

best. Many still live a semi-nomadic lifestyle and they have an

excellent understanding of the conditions. As with everything else in

Morocco, it is in your interests to haggle with them over the price for

their services.

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We travelled south from Zagora to the tiny village of M'Hamid,

close to the desert. This stretch is best done during the late afternoon

when the heat is fading and you can take in the amazing

“moonscapes” of rubble stones and monolithic mountains of rock,

which the locals classify as "hammada" desert. The general absence of

people is another startling aspect of this part of the country. You

might pass a camel train making its way across the Sahara, or as we

did, pass the gory sight of an overturned truck that had flung its cargo

of half-dead sheep by the roadside.

The only other reminder of civilisation is the occasional army fort

surveying the valleys below from a rocky hill (Algeria is only a few

kilometres away and the two countries are currently involved in a

border dispute).

From M'Hamid we started with our guides on a three-hour camel

trek towards the bigger, more graceful sand dunes. As we rode into

the desert we noticed the gradual disappearance of even the

scrubbiest bushes. Later, as the evening spread itself against the

widest of pink horizons, our shadows grew longer and longer with the

dying sun. The stillness of the setting was beautiful; the only sound

being that of the camel's hooves shuffling in the sand. Once we

reached the Twareg's camp it was already dark and a feast of mutton

and vegetable "tajine" stew with couscous (rice-sized semolina pasta)

awaited us. Just like any other time of the day or night, mint tea was

served. Our hosts also provided us with some live music around the

fire. We slept in a tent with our guide and one of the pet dogs. In the

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Sahara you feel like you are surrounded by nothing at all. The purest

silence, the barren seas of sand, the stark, clear nights with the stars

seeming to be within physical reach: these and other things create the

allure of a timeless landscape.

Egypt

Egypt is still a budget traveller’s paradise but make sure you

have a good supply of US dollars or Egyptian pounds at border

crossings. You can use traveller’s checks and credit cards at banks

and big hotels. Cairo has an International airport, but it is also

possible to do border crossings by land from Israel, or arrive by ferry

from Jordan or Europe. By far the best way to get around Egypt is by

train, but buy your tickets in advance.

Summer temperatures can be unbearably hot in the south, and it

is very dry. Winters are cooler and provide more favourable conditions

for travel, although it is also high season for tourists. Beware of

travelling during

Ramadan

(Feb/March) when many shops,

restaurants and government services are closed, or open only in the

early morning, or late evening. There is a wealth of history and

culture in this ancient nation. Here is an overview of the principal

sights:

Cairo

Mosque of Muhammak Ali, City of the Dead, Egyptian Museum

(do not miss the Tutankhamen Collection), the Pyramids at Ginza and

Saqqara. Some old and stepped pyramids outside Saqqara have been

re-opened to the public, including the famous “bent pyramid.”

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Alexandria

Cooler and more relaxed than Cairo, remnants of the colonial past

are still evident. Very little remains of its ancient ruins, though a visit

to the catacombs of Komesh-Shoqafa is recommended. The beaches

are very crowded.

Luxor

The temples here and at Karnak are well worth visiting. Most

people make Luxor their base for visiting the West Bank sites, namely

the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, the Colossi of Memnon,

Temple of Hatsheput and the Ramassuem. You can also rent a

motorbike, donkey or horse.

Aswan

This beautiful, laid-back city, located just in front of the largest

dam in Africa, is a good base from which to visit the Temple of Abu

Simbel (getting a group and hiring a taxi is the cheapest way). It is

also a good starting point for

felucca,

Egyptian sailing boat trips down

the Nile. Do not try this mode of transport if you are in a hurry. The

feluccas

take six to eight people, so first find a group and do the

rounds with the captains to try to get the best deal.

Hurghada

The coral reefs here make it popular with scuba divers. Suspect

diving centres proliferate, so be careful whom you choose to patronise.

Sinai

The Red Sea coast is excellent for snorkelling and scuba diving,

and Sinai is much cheaper than nearby Eilat in Israel. Dive shops and

courses are concentrated in Sharm-esh-Sheikh and Dahab. Dahab has

many camps run by Bedouin villagers catering to tourist’s basic needs.

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It is also a good point from which to climb Mt. Sinai and visit St.

Catherine’s Monastery.

Further information

http://touregypt.net Egyptian State Tourist Authority: 630 5th Ave.

1706, New York, NY 10111. E-mail: egypttourst@aol.com

Ethiopia

By Dominic James

Thinking of its infinite expanses of semi-arid desert, or an

emaciated population living hand to mouth? The needless famine of

1985 and its subsequent negative media coverage have a lot to answer

for, because the Ethiopia I encountered confounded a lot of my

expectations.

Ethiopia has a rich history and a fascinating culture. The

Ethiopian calendar is currently eight years behind the western one,

and daily time begins at 6 in the morning instead of midnight. The

national language, Amharic, is spoken nowhere else. The national

dance involves a bizarre shoulder-jerking movement accompanied by

what can only be described as a sexual gasping. One of the first things

I learned after arriving in Ethiopia was how a war can really

inconvenience your travel plans.

Big hopes of visiting the majestic Blue Nile Falls (Bahar Dar), the

impressive subterranean rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and the

allegedly great buildings of the ancient capital, Gondar, were all

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scuppered with the sudden flaring up of hostilities on the Eritrean

border, and subsequent cancellation of all domestic flights north of the

capital, Addis Ababa. There were no trains either, and with a

positively asthmatic 30 km/hr-bone-shaking ride, you would not want

to bus it. Ethiopia is a big country! I flew one-hour south from Addis

Ababa to the small town of Tum in search of some of the rural tribal

life. As I went further south, I saw scenic hills and forests resplendent

in green livery, occasionally dotted with the circular tepee-style

thatched roof of a basic hut. On arrival, I took off with a local guide to

see the Majinga Tribespeople. It was a truly fascinating experience, as

one fear that tribal Africa may soon die out.

Apart from the historical tour, that I was thwarted from taking in

the north, there really is no fixed pattern for seeing Ethiopia. Tourist

information is extremely limited, even if you do want to follow the

distinctly small sightseeing crowd. If you are a traveller who enjoys

just making it up as you go along, Ethiopia is definitely the place for

you!

Kenya

By Dominic James

The busy streets of Nairobi are visually compelling. Customised

matatus

(about-town minibuses) pull suddenly out of side streets,

spewing black smoke and loud rap music into the city air. Middle-aged

women sit on pavements vending small pyramids of ripe passion fruit.

Teenage street kids walk with a dazed look in their eyes from sniffing

too much glue. Smartly dressed businessmen cut a sharp contrast

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with their neatly pressed suits. Nairobi life is exciting, organised

chaos, and I love it.

Variety beckons outside Nairobi too. Take a week-long safari trip

to the Masai Mara National Park and Lakes Baringo and Nakuru for

a wonderfully preserved “Jurassic Park” feel of wildlife as it used to be.

Enjoy ripe tropical fruit, freshly caught seafood, and cold Tusker beer

on Mombasa’s sun-drenched coast, and accost your ears with the

cacophony of sounds of the virginal Kakamega Rainforest.

Yet it is the people who will stay in your memory. There was the

impoverished hospital worker who insisted on buying me (the rich

westerner, capable of spending the equivalent of a month’s nurse’s

wage in a day) a beer. Or, the former Mau Maus, who had fought for

freedom in the 1950s against my country’s colonial rule, welcomed me

into their pool tournament. The immense kindness and friendliness

of these people—giving so much of what little they had—never ceased

to amaze me.

Safari

Kenya thrives on the safari market. Indeed, a safari is one of the

best ways to see the landscape, animals and people of the countryside.

Touts line the streets of most cities and will offer you “African price”

(the price the locals pay) because of a “friend” or “relative” inside the

company. Most of these are simply small deals that do not qualify as a

con because they are selling actual safaris with actual companies.

Nearly all of the safari operators—except Abercrombie and Kent, the

most expensive in town—use touts, and it is an acceptable means of

getting business. There is a huge range of tour operators, not all of

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who are extortionate, so shop around. One of the most eco-friendly but

expensive ways of seeing all the game is by balloon.

Further information

Balloon Safaris, Adventures Aloft. Eagle House, Kimathi St., PO Box

40683, Nairobi. Tel: (2) 220-592

Cave Exploration Group of East Africa, PO Box 47583, Nairobi.

South Africa

By Neil Mcdonough

To appreciate just why Cape Town is considered one of the most

beautiful cities in the world, venture up Table Mountain that

dominates the city’s skyline. Then rappel back down with Abseil

Africa for 2000 Rand. It is the longest commercial abseil in the world

and provides an even better view when dangling at 120m. Cape Town

also offers meat-lovers a veritable cornucopia of delights, in large size

portions. Mama Africa in Long Street is particularly popular.

You can take a coach with Translux to Pretoria via Johannesburg.

It takes 18 hours (350 Rand). Pretoria has a very different

atmosphere from multicultural Cape Town. It is hard to imagine the

previous apartheid troubles in Cape Town; however, for safety’s sake,

taxis are recommended for late night travel in Pretoria. A cheap

backpacker’s dorm costs around 35 Rand. A safari in Kruger Park

with Bundu Bus costs around ･20,000 for four days and three nights

including guide, transport, accommodation (2 nights in tents, 1 in the

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private game reserve), and all the food you can eat. You can book

tours from hostels in Cape Town.

In Southern Africa the famous “Big Five” (the lion, leopard,

buffalo, rhino and elephant—renowned as the hardest to kill) are

difficult to find given their declining numbers and superb camouflage.

However, with patience and luck you can see the Big Five, species of

antelope, warthogs, honey badgers, jackals and the entire cast of the

Lion King.

Remember, all prices are fixed and non-negotiable

http://www.mg.co.za/mg

Southeast Asia

Cambodia

By Jenn Smith

It is only in the past few years that Cambodia has become a

viable destination for travellers. Even now, there are only certain

areas that are safe to visit, as there is a real threat from landmines all

over the country. It is a difficult country to travel in but Cambodia is

well worth the trouble.

Cambodia’s charms are its friendly people, wealth of both ancient

and modern historical sites, and its beautiful natural setting. All of

these were scarred by the violent events of the latter half of the 20th

century. Relative peace has descended on the country since the

death of Pol Pot in 1998, and the old scars are slowly healing.

Cambodia is still fragile and, as with any destination, you should

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check with your country’s embassy before travelling there for

up-to-date information.

The two places you must see on your visit to Cambodia are

Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh is the capital and has a

mix of classical Khmer architecture, as seen in the Royal Palace and

Silver Pagoda, and more recent French colonial architecture. The

Silver Pagoda has tonnes of silver, and features two 17

-century

Buddhas. One is made of Baccarat crystal; the other is made of gold

and almost 10,000 diamonds. The city is located at the meeting point

of three rivers, the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac. If you can find a

reliable and knowledgeable guide, going up the Mekong is a beautiful

and unforgettable experience.

Near Phnom Penh are two of the most horrific sites in history.

One cannot experience the beauty of Cambodia without going to Tuol

Sleng and Cheoung Ek, in an attempt to understand the horrors

suffered by the Cambodian people. Tuol Sleng is the Genocide

museum, which was built as a schoolhouse but soon became a prison

and torture area. Cheoung Ek is better known to the west as the

Killing Fields.

Angkor Wat, built in the 12th century, is located to the north of

Phnom Penh. It is an ancient complex, and was thought to be

mythical until a French naturalist stumbled upon it in 1861. It is the

largest religious monument ever constructed, and consists of 5 towers

and a moat. Also in the area is the ancient capital of Angkor Thom,

which features a Buddhist temple called Bayon that exhibits many

aspects of Hindu architecture.

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You will almost certainly meet numerous monks while you are

here, but women should be careful to stay at least one foot away at all

times. The nearest modern city, Siem Reap, has some excellent

accommodation as well as beautiful views of the Great Lake, Tonle

Sap. Fly to Siem Reap, or take the hydrofoil, as regular boats are too

dangerous. Also watch out if you are off the beaten track around here,

as this was a very popular place to plant landmines.

Further information

http://www.cambodia-web.net Cambodian government website.

http://www.cambodia.org

Cambodian Information Center

http://www.embassy.org/cambodia

Embassy in Washington D.C.

Indonesia

By Henrietta Preiss, Neil Mcdonough and Peter Greenburger.

This archipelago, made up of over 13,700 islands is home to many

indigenous tribes, near-extinct wildlife, primary rainforests and a

wealth of different languages and cultures. There is something for

everyone. Indonesia’s geography comprises white, sandy beaches, lush

jungle, active volcanoes, mountains and, of course, towns and resorts.

You need months to explore Indonesia fully. Most travellers only

have time to visit the islands of Sumatra, Java and Bali. Each and

every island has its own distinct character, and there are still vast

areas of Indonesia that lie unexplored. Remember that malaria is

rife in most of Indonesia, especially on Iran Jaya in the East. With the

exception of the tourist-ridden streets of Kuta in Bali, the most

noticeable thing about Indonesia is the people’s kindness and

hospitality.

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Bali

Bali, long billed as a tropical paradise, has been largely ruined by

mass-tourism in the past decade. Kuta is the main traveller’s hole,

but be warned: the beach and streets are filthy, the atmosphere is

decidedly unfriendly, and crime and violence are common. If you are a

labels-addict or a party animal, you will love it. There is a lively,

“beery” nightlife and an abundance of designer surf gear shops. If you

are into surfing, however, avoid Kuta; the sea is cleaner and the surf

is better at Nusa Dua, just down the road. In the centre of Bali is the

little town of Ubud—a quiet escape from hedonistic Kuta. It is the

cultural heart of Bali, where everyone is friendly and the general

atmosphere is more relaxed. Take a day or two to wander around the

markets and the quaint shops selling all kinds of local and traditional

Balinese artefacts.

There are nightly Balinese dance performances, which are worth

watching. By far, the most rewarding way to see the island is by

renting a car with some friends. It is very cheap and you can bargain

it down. You can get to places previously untouched by the tourist

trail and get to know the real Bali, meeting and spending time with

the locals. Bali is diverse and beautiful. You can drive from Lovina’s

black volcanic beaches in the north (from where you can take a boat at

dawn to see the dolphins) to Tirtagangga. From here, follow the

coastal road, taking in the rugged seascapes and gradually heading

inland, as the road snakes its way through valleys of lush, luminous,

green terraced rice paddies. Tirtagangga, in the middle of wide-open

paddies stretching down to the sea, is probably the most tranquil

place you will find on Bali.

Lombok

“This is how Bali used to be,” said a local on Senggigi Beach.

Lombok is heaven compared to its neighbour. It is about four hours by

ferry from Padangbai on Bali to Mataram on Lombok. The island is

quieter and less tourist-trampled. The beaches, notably (and

coincidentally) Kuta Beach, are the kind you have dreamed

of—endless stretches of hot white sand teased by the gentle turquoise

waves of the Indian Ocean.

Many climbers go to Lombok to hike up Gunung Rinjani to see its

large green lake and various hot springs. Take a little boat from

Senggigi out to the Gili Islands, off Lombok’s northwest coast, for a

real touch of desert island life. Gili Trawangan is the most developed

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of this trio of tiny, almost unspoiled islands, where transport is by

horse-drawn buggy, bike or foot. Gili Meno and Gili Air are sparsely

populated but have some accommodation.

Diving and snorkelling to see turtles are the order of the day here.

The islands are changing fast and hotels are on their way, so go soon

to savour their laid-back tranquility. Be careful of the buggy drivers.

We were scammed and almost attacked.

Due to violence against Christians, travel to Lombok is pretty risky at the

moment. Check with your country’s embassy for the most recent warnings.

Flores

Flores is one of the most beautiful of the Indonesian islands. It

was a Portuguese colony before being sold to the Dutch; about 95% of

the population is Catholic and the island is dotted with churches. The

Komodo dragons and the three multicoloured volcanic lakes of Mount

Keli Mutu tempt many travellers to make the long journey by boat

over to Komodo and Flores. Komodo is a dry and desolate island

close to Flores. Banu Nggulung is the best place to see the 4metre

long lizards.

Sumatra

Sumatra is many traveller’s favourite Indonesian island, because

it is so diverse in its blend of cultures and astonishing array of flora

and fauna.I went to Bukit Lawang, a great place deep in the jungle of

North Sumatra. It is an orang-utan sanctuary and is surrounded by

jungle. It is really hot and really wet, so be prepared with some light,

cotton, easy-to-dry clothes. Waterproofs will just make you sweat.

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All the hostels are on the banks of a fast running river that you

can go down in rubber inner tubes that you can hire for very little.

Do a hike if you can—the terrain is mountainous in places, and it can

be hard work trekking through some very thick, hot rainforest.

I then went to Lake Toba, created by a volcanic crater. It is the

largest such thing in the world, so big that the island created in the

middle of the lake by the last eruption is the size of Singapore.

Java

The most populated and developed island, Java is an island of

contrasts, comprising big cities and the squalor that comes with them,

but at the same time, live volcanoes, lots of history and beautiful

scenery.

Yogyakarta

I did not know until I touched down that Yogyakarta is a

historical and cultural treasure. It has two important historic

temples, Prambanan and Borobudur—the latter is often compared to

Angkor Wat in Cambodia. There are two narrow parallel alleyways

filled with guesthouses, food and travel shops.

Jakarta

I was told by many not to go to Jakarta, rumoured to be boring,

noisy, dirty and dangerous. However, I thought Jakarta was great fun.

It was not as dangerous as people suggested. Jalan Sabang, littered

with satay vendors, is reputed to be the best in the world. I cannot

disagree. I saw the gross but majestic monuments erected by Suharto

and the ships in the old harbour. I also went to Chinatown, where I

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saw some burned-out buildings from riots. Indonesia is an amazing

place and I urge all to take their time there.

Laos

By Antony Giblin

In Luang Prabang, there is the aroma of freshly brewed ground

coffee, the taste of just-baked baguettes and the rustic ambience of

decaying provincial buildings. Further along the street, exquisite

gold-roofed temples, palm fringed courtyards and saffron-robed novice

monks can be seen sauntering down the dusty road under the musky

warmth of a late afternoon Asian sun.

Luang Prabang, ancient capital of Laos, rests idyllically on the

banks of the Mekong River surrounded by mountains and is arguably

the finest example of the exotic colonial and Asian mélange that once

existed throughout this intriguing corner of the world. For this reason,

it remains one of the highlights of any trip to Southeast Asia.

Yet the great thing about Laos as a travel destination is that

many of the traits that make Luang Prabang so special—a French

colonial atmosphere, wonderful people, and a picturesque

setting—can be found throughout the entire country. From the

laid-back dilapidated capital, Vientianne, to the eerie ambience of the

Champasak Angkor-era temple ruins, the mysterious “Plain of Jars,”

the wonder of the Mekong, and colourfully clad tribal peoples, Laos

offers a diversity of travel and sightseeing experiences unmatched in

the region. It is also one of the cheapest countries in the world to

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travel, and has not, as yet, suffered the effects of mass tourism so

acutely felt by its neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam.

A suggested itinerary for those with around three weeks to spend

in Laos might begin with a border crossing at Huay Xai, from

Northeast Thailand and a detour to the Chinese border to see

indigenous hill-tribes, before taking an over-night, slow-boat trip

down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. After a week exploring Luang

Prabang, river caves and the Plain of Jars, many people choose to

take the Route 13 bus to Vientianne and then wind their way down

the tail of the country to the spectacular Don Khong Mekong River

archipelago and the Champasak temple ruins. Re-entry into Thailand

is possible at Chong Mek.

Travel in Laos is by bus, riverboat (if waters are high enough), or,

for the truly adventurous, by the state owned Lao Aviation. As Laos is

still emerging from decades of relative international isolation, its

infrastructure for handling tourism is still developing. If you are

thinking of going to this wonderful country, you will need lots of

patience, a tolerance for cold showers, highly developed sign-language

skills and the latest edition of the Lonely Planet!

Malaysia

By Rainer Mehl

Malaysia consists of the peninsula south of Thailand, and Sabah

and Sarawak, two states on the island of Borneo. The latter offer

many opportunities for jungle treks and visits to long house cultures

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that have recently given up their nomadic lifestyle, due to accelerated

logging. The Peninsula has a lot of colonial history and a rich racial

mixture. Like the people, the food comes from all parts of the world

with Indian and ‘straits’ Chinese being the largest non-Malay

influence.

Georgetown or Penang is an island on the north west coast; it has

great colonial-era architecture and is a true melting pot of cultures.

It's one of my favourite cities in Asia. There is great street vendor food

to be had and also many banana-leaf curry restaurants, where US$2

will buy you an all-you-can-eat vegetarian curry served on a large leaf.

In the centre of town you can find places of worship for more than five

religions. Overlooking the town there is a high plateau reached by

funicular railway. Here it is always 5 to 10 degrees cooler than the

rest of the city and it's a good place to go for a walk or enjoy a scenic

lunch.

The capital, Kuala Lumpur, has become a high-tech city. It has

some massive buildings, including the Petronas Towers, the world's

tallest building. Yet it also has a lot of buildings of historical interest

and many of these can be found around the Merdeka Square area.

In the south, Melaka has had Portuguese, Dutch and English

colonial masters, and you can see these influences in this small city's

architecture. The most interesting parts of Melaka are near the town

hall (built under the Dutch) and around the river. Melaka has many

museums and nice relaxed shopping too (especially during the week

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when people from neighbouring Singapore are not clogging up the

malls).

The east coast has nice beaches, but is also the most

conservatively Muslim area, with many ‘dry’ towns, and the nearest

beer days away. In the centre of the country are great hill stations

like the Cameron Highlands, and there are many opportunities for

good treks and visits to tea plantations and butterfly farms. If you

have a longing to pet a scorpion, this is the place for you! Taman

Negara National Park has 4343sq km of jungle, where you can go

trekking and there are Hides and Salt Licks where you can spend the

night and look for wildlife such as tapir, tigers and rhinoceros.

If you go to a hide be careful about transportation; I got stuck on

a dock for several hours because my “ride” did not come. There is also

a canopy walkway, high up in the trees, with some great views (and

monkeys if you are lucky). One of my favourite activities was spending

four hours drifting down the river in an inner tube, watching out for

monkeys and lizards on the shore.

Practicalities

English is spoken widely in Malaysia, and transport and

accommodation can be easily arranged. Malaysia is a bit more

expensive than some other countries in the region, such as Thailand

and Indonesia, but you can still live for under US$20 a day. Small

restaurants pop up at sundown, often taking over whole stretches of

street, and they are usually some of the best and most affordable

places to eat.

How to get around

Bus service on the Peninsula is good, modern and reliable, there

is some train service, but it is not nearly as convenient. Another

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popular mode of transport is long distance/shared taxis that have

various rates based on size of group, type of car, and time of day you

are travelling. This is where a good guidebook will help in negotiating

prices. In cities local buses are cheap and frequent, and both

motorcycle and standard taxis are common. If you don’t see a meter,

negotiate a price first and be ready to bargain. To get to Taman

Nagara, you can take longboats up the river, which are also a popular

form of transport in Sabah and Sarawak (on Borneo). To move

between Borneo and the mainland, you have a choice of boat or plane.

Scams and other problems

Malaysia overall is quite safe, with relatively strict penalties for

crime. None the less, in Taman Negara, have someone take care of

your things if you go into the jungle overnight, and be aware of boat

pick up-times, as it is easy to be stranded on some boat dock at the

edge of the jungle. Another thing to look out for is a private individual

posing as a taxi driver. At times this can work out well and be much

cheaper than taking an official taxi, but at others you might find

yourself—as we did—helping to push the taxi up a hill in the middle

of the night, with your belongings on board ... let me tell you, it makes

you think twice about the “bargain” price you negotiated. The only

other hassle is that people are likely to tell you what you want to hear,

as long as they can make a sale. Double check information, as the

truth is liberally applied to such things as arrival points and times of

buses and boats, leaving you stranded in the most unlikely places!

Visa requirements

Visitors will receive at least a 30-day visa upon entry, but actual

length depends on your nationality. Israeli Nationals need Diplomatic

approval—check before you go! Sabah and Sarawak have special

permits, but follow much of the same rules.

http://www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html

Photos

Myanmar (Burma)

By Jenn Smith

In Myanmar, human rights abuses are widespread, and the BBC

has called it “one vast labour camp.” Tourist dollars are actively

courted, but they go into the hands of an oppressive government.

One of the world’s modern heroes, pro-democracy activist Aung San

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Suu Kyi, head of Myanmar’s major opposition party, is still under

house arrest in Yangon.

She has asked travellers to refrain from visiting until a legitimate

government is in power. But, if you do decide to go, start in Yangon

(Rangoon), the capital. The Shwedagaon Pagoda as the best-known

tourist site in Myanmar deserves its reputation. On your way north

to the Royal Palace in Mandalay stop at Bagan. Bagan is an 11th

century city containing two thousand pagodas that rival Angkor Wat

in Cambodia.

You will be required to change $300 US into the local currency,

but you are forbidden to remove any Burmese currency. Spend your

money on the people of Myanmar, not on their oppressors. So, you

could go on a government-approved tour, and stay at luxury hotels

that put money into the government’s coffers. Or, you could try to help

the people by staying in family-run guesthouses, using local

transportation, and buying only from the locals. Sometimes

journalists and activists disappear, or find some of Myanmar’s opium

in their luggage. Tourists complain about being harassed by

government bureaucrats. It may be the government you have most to

fear. Check the latest warnings before you arrive.

Further information

Burma Action Group, Collins Studios, Collins Yard, Islington Green

London N1 2XU Tel (71) 359-7679

Open Society Institute, 400 W. 59th Street, 4th Floor, New York,

NY 10019 Tel: (212) 548-0632 Website: http://www.soros.org/burma

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The Philippines

By Jenn Smith

The Philippines, with over 7000 islands to choose from, offers

something for everyone. You can volunteer, sunbathe, party, hike,

shop, scuba dive, take in the amazing blend of Spanish, Chinese and

Indigenous cultures; and just about anything else one might like to do

on vacation. Almost everyone speaks English, and almost all signs are

in English too.

As a starting point, Manila is a must. The main international

airport is here; so most travellers from Japan will land in Manila. Two

budget hotels with great reputations are Adriatic Arms and Malate

Pension. You will probably stay in the Malate area, which is where

most of the hotels, restaurants and money exchanges congregate.

While you are in the area, check out Hobbit House. This is a fantastic

restaurant with good food (mostly American style), great service and

perhaps the best live gigs in Southeast Asia. Also in the area is

Robinson’s Place. For those of you who have been in Japan’s inaka for

quite some time, this will give you reverse culture shock. It is the

spitting image of a North American suburban mall, right down to the

mall rats. Malate is only a jeepney ride away from Intramuros, the old

walled city of Manila, dating back to the time of Spanish conquest.

Jeepneys are one of the most interesting things in the Philippines.

For approximately 3 pesos a kilometre, you can squeeze into the back

of a colourful, intricately decorated converted jeep with the dashboard

covered in Catholic trappings (rosaries, statues of the Virgin Mary

and Jesus, passages from the Bible, etc.). Check the destination on the

window of the jeepney, hop on, pass your money up to the driver

through the other passengers, and hold on for dear life.

From Manila, decide which direction to take. If you are going

north on Luzon Island, head to Baguio city. From there you can take

a bus to any destination on Luzon. The famous Banaue Rice Terraces,

reputed to be the eighth wonder of the world, are about 8 hours away

by bus from Baguio. Near Banaue is the small town of Sagada, whose

two claims to fame are its caves and hanging coffins. It is quite a hike,

but an adventure not to be missed!

Surfers take note: San Fernando in La Union province (not to be

confused with all the other San Fernandos) is earning a reputation for

excellent surfing. The best place to start is at La Union Surf Resort,

just a few minutes from San Fernando city by jeepney. Also, La Union

Surf Resort offers some of the best-guided hiking tours in Southeast

Asia. They have a great website. http://www.sflu.com/surf

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If you are headed west from Manila, to Palawan or Boracay, you

will need to take a plane or ferry. Boracay was once home to some of

the most beautiful beaches in the Philippines, but it is quickly

becoming commercialised. Palawan is still as close to unspoilt

paradise as most people can get. The capital, Puerto Princessa, is

where the best lodging is to be found, but explore the rural areas for

stunning tropical flora and fauna.

South from Manila, via bus and ferry, is Mindoro Island. Puerto

Galera, at the northern tip of Mindoro, is a scuba diver’s paradise.

One of the most inexpensive places to get your PADI certification is in

the Philippines, and Puerto Galera is a favourite spot of many JETs.

Asian Divers on Small La Laguna Beach has first-rate instructors

who speak a variety of languages and come highly recommended.

You can e-mail them at http://www.admin@asiadivers.com

The nightlife in Puerto Galera does not get any better than The

Point Shooter Bar, located just above Asia Divers. Their motto is

“Your body is an evil thing. It needs to be punished, so get to The

Point!” They have many drinks that will punish your body, but you

will have such a good time you won’t realise you are being punished

until the next morning. The food in the Philippines is a treat to the

senses, and there are plenty of Filipino restaurants in the Puerto

Galera area to keep your strength up for diving.

There are literally hundreds of other destinations in the

Philippines. Keep in mind that there have been problems lately with

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tourists being kidnapped by rebels in the south. Check your country’s

embassy for travel warnings before you go, and keep away from

trouble spots.

Singapore

By Iain Drummond

Singapore is an ideal destination for a long-weekend break from

Japan. It is a nice, compact place to walk around. It is possible to see

just about all the sights in a four or five day period. In Singapore,

ultra-modern skyscrapers tower above immaculate colonial era

buildings and mosques rub shoulders with Hindu and Buddhist

temples. There are also massive shopping malls, loads of restaurants,

and a good mix of other attractions.

The most famous building in Singapore is the Raffles Hotel,

named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the British founder of Singapore.

As well as being the place where the Singapore Sling was invented,

the hotel was name-checked in the work of a number of writers (and

former guests) such as Somerset Maugham. Raffles is an incredibly

expensive place to stay but non-guests can still sample a Singapore

Sling in one of the hotel's bars. I had my Singapore Sling in the Long

Bar, where there is no dress code.

Although the drink was overpriced at S$20, the surroundings

(and the Singapore Sling) were nice. Elsewhere in Singapore, two

statues have been erected in honour of Sir Stamford Raffles. One

stands in the Padang area—home to the best of the country's

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colonial-era buildings—while the other can be found next to the

Singapore River, marking the site where Raffles first arrived in

Singapore. Another well-known Singapore statue is the Merlion

beside the Anderson Bridge. Water shoots out of the mouth of this

white half-lion/half-fish.

One of the reasons why Singapore is an interesting place is

because it has a diverse population. The population is a mixture of

Chinese (the majority at around 75%), Indian, Malay and, well,

various others from across the globe. When Singapore was first settled

the different races were allocated their own areas. Two of the

must-see areas—though it would be hard to miss them—are

Chinatown and Little India.

A great deal of restoration work has gone on in Chinatown in

recent years. I enjoyed just strolling around its streets. Chinatown's

two-story buildings with their colourfully painted shutters made a

pleasant change from the ubiquitous skyscrapers. The area, in

addition to containing shops, restaurants, and a number of Buddhist

temples, also has a 150 year-old Hindu temple, the Sri Mariammam.

The tower above the temple's entrance has exquisitely carved and

painted Hindu figures and is an amazing sight. The renovators and

restorers have also been at work in Little India. There are temples,

markets, and narrow lanes selling all things Indian. For both

Chinatown and Little India I followed the

Lonely Planet's

suggested

walking routes and found them to be very good.

Singapore's most popular tourist attraction is Sentosa. To enjoy

all that it has to offer you really need to spend a whole day there.

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Sentosa tends to be described as a “fun park” but I thought that that

was a slight misnomer because many of its attractions—such as the

Images of Singapore museum and Fort Siloso—are rather cerebral.

That said, it does also have a water park, a man-made beach, an

aquarium, and “spectacular” light show (which began to pall pretty

quickly). You can get to and from Sentosa by bus, ferry, or cable car.

The cable car offers great views, particularly at night.

If you're interested in history you might enjoy a visit to Changi

prison museum. Changi was where the Japanese interred allied

prisoners of war during World War Two. The museum tells how the

war impacted upon Singapore and of the appalling treatment of the

POWs and of ordinary Singaporeans. The story was told in an

interesting way, using many first-hand oral sources and prisoners'

letters. It takes about 45 minutes by bus to get to the museum,

located almost next door to modern-day Changi prison.

Singapore seems to have earned a good reputation as a place for

shopping and eating. Yet while there were certainly lots of gigantic

malls and all the shops you could ever want, the prices did not seem to

be that much cheaper than Japan. I can have no complaints about the

food though. You can get all the different types of Chinese food

(Hunanese, Hainanese and so on), Indian, Malay, and everything else

besides. I tried eating at the Hawker centres—open-air food

courts—and found them to be cheap and delicious.

As for getting around, that is fairly easy in Singapore. The

subway (MRT - Mass Transit System) is spotlessly clean and efficient;

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buses are regular and cheap and they go everywhere. There is also a

Singapore Airlines bus that does a circuit of all the tourist spots. If

you are flying with Singapore Airlines the bus costs S$3; if not, it is

S$6. Happily, it doesn't matter when you visit Singapore because the

weather stays much the same throughout the year (hot and humid but

tolerable). It may not be the cheapest or the most naturally beautiful

country in Asia but this often overlooked destination still has a lot to

offer.

Thailand

By Rainer Mehl

Thailand is a favourite among JETs, this is no wonder

considering the many islands, great diving, good food and other

activities. I headed to northern Thailand to Chiang Mai, from where

you can do treks into the mountains to visit hill tribes in the “Golden

Triangle.” On my trek, I rode an elephant, took a bamboo raft down a

river, stayed with a local family in the jungle and ate great food

prepared by our guide.

This is quite standard fare and you can do everything from an

easy one or two days to several weeks of trekking. Bangkok is the best

party town anywhere to some, a cesspool to others, but the cheap

shopping and sheer number of sights make it an easy place to stay for

while. The main backpacker's street is legendary and you can find

everything from fleabag rooms and transport scams to great travel

bargains and fabulous food. You can also buy any type of copied

product you can imagine.

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To the south are many beaches and islands, some of which are

famous for their raves and parties (Pha Ngan, for example), some for

their “sun, sand and sin” (Phuket) others for their high class, yet

affordable restaurants and hotels (Samui) and others again for their

diving (Tao). I loved Tao, even if the dive boats are getting more

numerous every year. The diving is still good and the relaxed

atmosphere and good restaurants make the island a great place to

stay. There are a great many destinations within Thailand and much

depends on your reason for going and the time of year you decide to

travel, as weather patterns change from coast to coast. Food is

outstanding, spicy and generally very fresh and inexpensive. There is

a seedy underbelly to the country with paedophilic tourism,

prostitution and AIDS all major problems. The recent financial crisis

has not helped matters either, with more and more people desperate

to make a living any way they can. Thailand remains a place where

you can travel cheaply, but also can get good value for your money if

you spend a bit more. Here more than any other place I have been you

get what you pay for. In Bangkok it is possible to get a “room” for

US$2 a night, but this might only have a thin sheet of plywood as a

wall and a cold shower down the hall. Down the same street there will

be air con rooms with hot showers for US$10. Street vendors make

some of the cheapest and best food, but again nice restaurants also

abound.

How to get around

Good state-run buses go almost everywhere, are affordable, have

air-con and many night services. Domestic flights are not too

expensive, and the train is also an option, though at times it requires

reservations. The tourist services leaving Kao San Road area of

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Bangkok are often not too reliable, and at times leave you stranded,

though this situation seems to be improving. In town there are

tuk-tuks, mopeds with sidecars, where you should negotiate a price

before getting inside. Motorcycle taxis are also popular in Bangkok, as

traffic is a nightmare. Many boat services operate between the islands,

and there are agents in all the ports, who will also have mini-bus

service to many destinations.

Scams and other problems

Do not buy gems to make profit, or enter into a deal to “lose” your

traveller’s cheques. In Bangkok, beware of the theft that occurs in the

ill-secured rooms of many hotels, and on crowded buses look out for

pickpockets. As mentioned above, some bus services from the Kao San

Road area will leave you stranded, or a “free room” that was promised

will cost you a “cleaning” charge. We once took a bus, were dropped off

at 4am in the middle of nowhere and then had to fend of taxi drivers

who tried to tell us that we had been stranded, when in fact the

“connection” we had been promised came around at 7am. Finally,

drugs are available quite freely, especially in the mountains and at

parties, but there is still a death penalty for possession of larger

amounts, and even a shorter stay in a Thai prison is not something

you would want to endure.

Suggested trips

In one week you can either head to Chiang Mai for trekking, or

to one of the many islands for some rest and relaxation. In two weeks

you can either try to do both, or do one or the other more intensely. In

three weeks it is possible to see a fair bit of the country, but I have

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met people who have gone to one or another of the islands for a 3 day

stay and were still there two years later.

Visa requirements

Most nationalities will receive a visa upon entry, and this can be

extended or renewed by re-entry at any border.

http:// www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html

photos

Vietnam

By Rainer Mehl

In the last few years Vietnam has seen a great increase in

tourism, and for good reason. From Hanoi in the north to Ho Chi

Minh (Saigon) in the south, there is much to see.

In the north, the centre for discovering the hill tribes is Sapa,

close to the Chinese Border. I loved the little old ladies who will

bargain you into the ground over every piece of fabric they sell you.

Also in this region—and within easy reach of Hanoi—is HaLongBay.

After a bus trip to the coast you take a ship into a vast area of

amazing limestone cliffs that jut out of the ocean. I saw jellyfish the

size of small lifeboats!

You can take cheap tours around here lasting a few days and

luxury cruises are also available. South of Hanoi is the Perfume

Pagoda, a grotto at the top of a large hill, which is reached after a boat

ride and hike. The boat is a paddleboat and with eight people on board

you float serenely through the countryside. When I did the hike I was

lucky as I saw some dancing being performed at a temple at the base

of the hill.

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In Hanoi, you can visit the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. He looks

like he passed away just a few days ago. You have to leave your

camera at a checkpoint, walk in a group (at least you are not expected

to parade march like the locals), and maintain a solemn appearance.

In the mausoleum you are not allowed to stand still. In the centre of

the country there is old DMZ and all the war sites, but also the former

capital, Hue, which has many UNESCO protected sites, including the

Graves of the Vietnamese Emperors.

A bit further south is HoiAn, an old trade centre that has

rediscovered itself as a place for tourists to have custom tailored

clothes made cheap. It also offers beaches and easy access to old

Khmer sites related to Ankor Wat in Cambodia. Closer to Saigon is

Dalat, the old French hill station and Vietnamese honeymoon capital.

If you thought Japan was cheesy in places wait till you see this! It

takes kitsch to a whole new level.

The Mekong River Delta is south from here and you can explore it

by bus and boat tours from Saigon. Whenever I come here, I cannot

stop taking pictures of the floating houses and markets, fish farms,

minority villages and enthusiastic kids who live here and wave at

every boatload of tourists. Saigon itself is a bit Tokyo, a bit old Paris

and a whole lot Asia, an interesting mix.

Food is also a mix of Asian and European, with both mini

baguettes (Banh Mi) and noodle soup (Pho) available from street

vendors everywhere. People are extremely industrious and quite open

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to tourists, and there appeared to be no lingering hard feelings over

the war. Due to the overall low cost and mix of Asian, European and

American culture, Saigon has plenty of restaurants. The standard of

food was often excellent and prices were very reasonable. It is possible

to live on US$10 a day or less in Vietnam, with guesthouses offering

beds from $3. If you spend a bit more you can quickly get air-con and

satellite TV. (I have stayed for $10 and had all the modern conditions

and breakfast as well ... but I had to walk up 5 flights of stairs.)

Transport is quite cheap, though foreigners pay up to seven times

the price of locals, as the government mandates this. The tourist bus

that connects Saigon to Hanoi cost $25 for the whole trip, and you can

interrupt as often as you like! Domestic Flights are also well priced.

How to get around

Much travel is done by tour or at least by tourist bus. Hotels,

cafés and restaurants are often also tour operators and travel agents.

This makes travelling easy, as they can also arrange for train and bus

tickets. Favourites are the bus from Saigon to Hanoi, and mini tours

by bus, boat, jeep, and train or combination thereof, lasting from 1 to

5 days and going to almost all sights in the country. Tours often

include hotel as well as all transport, and a 3-day tour will cost about

$45. Local transport is either by cyclo, the romantic but slow bicycle

rickshaws, or by moped taxi, where you sit behind the driver and

hang on for dear life. In the larger towns metered taxis are starting to

replace the older modes of transport, and you can also hire your own

moped for about $7 a day.

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Scams and other problems

When taking cyclos or mopeds, negotiate a price before you get

in/on and stick to it, even if the driver pulls over and wants more. Also,

hang on to your bags as traffic is tight and bags get snatched. Robbery

and theft are not a real danger, though they are not unheard of. The

most common practice is for “guides” to take you to shops, restaurants

and hotels of their own choosing, where they will get a commission for

doing so.

Suggested trips

If you only have one week you should make a choice between the

south and the north, and explore the areas outside of the respective

capitals. In two weeks you could do both ends of the country, by flying

between Hanoi and Saigon. In three weeks you can travel the length

of the country, and make short stops along the way. My personal

favourites are HoiAn and the Mekong Delta.

Visa requirements

A visa is required, and a 30-day tourist version costs about

US$100 for most nationalities. It has to be applied for in advance.

http://www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html

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Eastern Asia

China

From the empire of the sun to the middle kingdom

By Will Jasprizza

Getting there

After my three-year tour of duty on JET, I set off to visit the

Middle Kingdom. I entered China via Hong Kong where I arranged

my flight and obtained a 3-month visa. I used Four Seasons Travel

(Room 102-103 Commercial House, 35 Queen's Road, Central, Hong

Kong TEL 25239147, 28680622 FAX 25265401).

First impressions

There were people everywhere day and night. After 3 years in a

small town in Ehime, I was confronted by a mass of life. During the

day people bustled to school and work, street vendors plied their trade

and bicycles zipped between all manner of vehicles, ancient and

modern. Come evening and the streets were filled with people playing

cards, walking, kicking balls, drinking at cafes or just shooting the

breeze. No one bows. I was still in Japan-mode and often did the

involuntary nod but it was never returned. There was no overt

politeness, not that people were not polite. The best thing was that I

no longer felt like a gaijin.

The smell of capitalism hung in the air. China has changed

enormously, particularly in the last few years, and it seemed to be

anything but communist. People sold goods on blankets in the streets

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and the latest bootleg DVD's and CD's were hustled on every corner

and even in supermarkets. Foreigners no longer have to use a special

currency (FEC - Currency); you use

renminbi

(people’s money) just

like the rest of the country. I used an ATM at the plush Swiss hotel to

draw on funds on my Australian account, and changed yen with few

problems.

Accommodation

I was lucky that whilst in Beijing I stayed in a flat—a real

Chinese flat—courtesy of a Chinese friend. I was told that technically

this was not allowed but that a blind eye was turned to the practice,

as so many foreigners inhabited Beijing. Three rooms and a

toilet/shower that really was a toilet/shower: the squat toilet was in

the middle of the shower floor. No TV, no phone but thankfully an air

conditioner. Not as humid as Japan, but still damn hot. In the

mornings people practised tai chi in the communal garden, and in the

evenings, played endless games of majong.

Food

Prepare to feast! Food was ridiculously cheap and plentiful, but

only at the local restaurants. At Starbucks, a coffee would set you

back 25 yuan when for the same price in a local shop you could get a

plate of rice, a meat dish and a huge plate of vegetables. Those who

became alcoholic whilst in Japan will like China—a bottle of Tsing

Tao beer from a shop costs only 3 yuan.

The varieties of food overwhelmed me. I got the impression that

after the rigours of the Great Leap Forward everyone was making the

most of actually having food. And did they have food! Sichuan

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(Szechuan) hotpot, Peking duck, boiled gyoza, fried gyoza, whole fish

40cm long on a plate dripping with sour sauce ... I could go on.

A Chinese friend asked me what I wanted for lunch one day and I

said "Gee, how about some dog!" 30 minutes later I opened the plastic

takeaway container and saw what looked like beef. "What's this?" I

asked. "Dog". Pushing thoughts of childhood labradors aside I tried a

bit but the gamy flesh had too powerful an aftertaste. Half the fun of

eating in China is not knowing what is on the menu. I visited the

shopping district of Wan Fujing and found a friendly insect vendor.

Grasshoppers, ants, what looked to be cockroaches, and scorpions!

The scorpions were crispy and delicious. Just once in their lifetime,

everyone should try and eat an insect.

One of my Chinese friends said to me "Do you know that if an

alien landed in the US it would be put on Oprah or Jerry Springer; if

it landed in Japan it would be studied and researched; but if it landed

in China it would be eaten!"

Language

Chinese is not hard. Think about all those movies where the

Chinese characters speak in a Pidgin English: "You go job" or "You eat

beef" without any care for indefinite/definite articles, conjugations of

verbs and so on. That is because in Chinese, it is that simple. In a

restaurant, "I'll have the dumplings please" becomes "wo chi jioazi"

(literally: I eat dumpling). "I want to go to Tiananmen"—Wo yao chu

Tiananmen (I want go Tiananmen). Where is the toilet? Cesuo zai nar

(toilet is where?). Yes, there are 5 tones, but even if you get the tone

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wrong, context usually ensures that everyone understands when you

say horse instead of mother.

Even so, on my first visit to a restaurant I had a bit of "newly

arrived in Japan" dejavu, except that there were no plastic dishes in

the window. Two possible solutions: (1) have a friend teach you the

name of a couple of dishes and order the same dishes at a few

restaurants for practice. I have eaten gong bao ji ding (spicy chicken!)

all over Beijing. This is insurance against starving. (2) carry the

Lonely Planet

phrasebook. Even if you mangle the tones it is not too

hard to spit out the words for fish (yu) beef or pork (niu). La mien is

noodles (say la mien and what Japanese “Chinese” food springs to

mind?) Gyoza is jioazi. And you can always point at the kanji in the

book, or even better, at the food the people at the next table are

eating.

Travel

I spent most of my time in Beijing, but I did make a few side trips

to the Great Wall, the Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square, the

Forbidden City, and Beidahe. Getting around is much simpler than in

the bad old days when everyone had to be escorted by special guides.

Booking trains and such is a breeze. Just grab a nearby university

student to translate if you have any hassles!

Ten years ago foreigners could only stay in designated hotels.

These days in Beijing you can stay at most places without a problem,

but take care outside the big city. In Beidahe I went with Chinese

friends to check in at the hotel only to be told that the hotel had no

licence for foreigners. I tried two more hotels nearby before finding

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one that would take me. Beidahe is a beach resort, and the bigwigs of

the Chinese government apparently go there for their holidays. It has

yellow sand and warm Pacific swell. It also has some really cool

concrete animals (including killer whales and penguins), though the

dilapidated buildings near the beach do not provide the best of

backdrops.

Everybody should see the Great Wall. You can get there by bus

but they go to the over crowded tourist section of the wall, and you are

limited somewhat by the bus schedule (a very early departure). If you

have three friends then sharing a taxi will give you greater flexibility

for about the same price as the bus. Haggle. I had to ask four drivers

before I found one who would take my friends and I (and bring us

back) for 300 Yuan. A 2-3 hour drive gets you there and then it is time

for sturdy footwear. Fight off the hawkers with "bu yao!" and walk

about a kilometre to the Wall. If you have any sense of adventure you

will climb the impossibly steep steps and not only catch the amazing

views from the wall turrets but improve your resting heart rate at the

same time.

The Summer Palace is amazing; a huge expanse of gardens and

waterways which takes hours to walk around. It is crammed with

sightseers, but still a welcome change from the traffic filled streets of

central Beijing. You are likely to be asked to jump in a few people's

photos. A friend and I wound up surrounded by schoolchildren, each

wanting a photo with the waigoren (Chinese for gaijin). The biggest

difference—10-year old kids would come up and say with flawless

pronunciation, "May I have a photo with you?"

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Beijing has a collection of ancient back alleys known as hutongs.

Explore these on bike and feel as if you have slipped back a few

hundred years ... at least until you round the corner and hit a KFC.

The houses, which back on to the hutongs, possess high stonewalls

and gorgeous courtyards, perfect for an evening sitting under the

stars and sipping the local brew. I recommend befriending someone

who lives in a hutong!

Tiananmen Square is huge and very busy. It is hard to push from

one's mind the scenes of the tanks rolling in during the pro-democracy

demonstrations. The square is so wide that it can fit tens of thousands

of people. Students may come up to you and ask you to visit a gallery,

but they are not pushy—just after a free English lesson. The

Forbidden City is both awe-inspiring and disappointing. It is huge,

magnificent and humbling. Scenes from

The Last Emperor

flashed

though my mind, but the grandeur has been lost to the ravages of the

Cultural Revolution. Cheap, shoddy paint jobs and garish

reconstructions abound, and one has the sense of incredible loss of

history, art and culture. Still, I walked around gaping at the sheer

size of the place.

I flew down to Shanghai for $100 US one-way. It has old

sandstone buildings, elegant streets, gorgeous evening cityscapes, and

fun people, A beautiful city where the locals have been playing the

capitalist game for a lot longer than Beijingers.

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Going out

Beijing plays a good host to innumerable foreigners and its

nightlife centres around San Li Tun (also referred to as the bar street).

A cross between Khao San Road and Roppongi, one end of San Li Tun

is full of bars, restaurants and cafés while the other end is the haunt

of ladies of the night. Beers are pricier in San Li Tun, 25 yuan for a

Tsing Tao.

Fancy some Thai or Indian food? Go to San Li Tun. They even

have a cool Japanese restaurant, too. Lots of the bars have live music.

Hit The Den to boogie until dawn, or Havana for open-air beers and

salsa dancing until 3am.

Chinese friends

China is more fun if you hang out with the locals. The value of

English in obtaining a coveted job with a multinational has resulted

in a super-abundance of excellent language learners. And do not think

you will be limited to talking about what sports you play or whether

you can use chopsticks—a meaty discussion about the events

surrounding the Tiananmen massacre is quite possible. I discovered,

however, that there tends to be a clear division between those who

follow the government line and those who, often through personal

experience, know what actually happened.

I spent 3 months in China. I picked up enough Chinese to get

around and stay fed. I learned a lot about history, people, culture and

menus. Most of all I made a lot of friends. If you want to lie on a beach

go to Thailand. If you want to add some unforgettable experiences to

your life, go to China.

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Hong Kong

By Richard Scarth and Tao Robinson

“City of Life” is how the Tourist Association describes Hong Kong!

Hong Kong is like an undeveloped country with a developed country’s

wealth. There you might find some wealthy local family living in a

shoebox with two children, a maid, a grandma...and of course, a

Mercedes. Then you will understand how six million people fit into a

1000 square kilometre area! Once you have landed, you will find

yourself surrounded by contrasts: photographing dilapidated

buildings next to hi-tech skyscrapers, watching stressed people on

their way to the office whilst others slow down for morning tai-chi

practice.

Being a former British colony, most people are able to speak a

little English, so getting around is not too difficult, especially with

cheap and efficient public transport. However, you do have to know

which bus to take. There are literally so many things to discover and

to keep you busy—from all types of sports to clubs to cultural events.

Hong Kong has, however, remained very traditional. The Star Ferry,

the Peak Tram, the Lantern Festival, magnificent firework shows,

Dragon Boat races, the Hungry Ghost month and

Feng Shui

are just

some of what makes it special.

Even after the hand-over in July 1997, the small expatriate

community has kept a cosmopolitan feel to the city with plenty of

western style bars and many great restaurants. Eating is a major part

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of Chinese culture, so you are spoiled with a wide choice of cuisine

(dim sum is a must!). Then “shop ‘til you drop” for designer labels,

electronics or the latest gadgets. Hong Kong is hectic but a fun and

energetic place to live or visit. Visitors should try to avoid the horrid

humidity in the summer.

South Korea

South Korea takes off its mask

By Stephen Savage

Late September is a good time to visit South Korea. From Japan

the flights can cost as little as \40,000. It can lead to an Asian

experience that is similar to Japan in some instances, yet its own

distinct culture at the same time.

Spend a day or two in Seoul. Travelling from the airport is easy

using the subway. Visit the National Museum, National Palace and

Gallery and gain some perspective on the manner in which Japan

occupied Korea during the war. After pigging out in such western

restaurants as Pizza Hut or TGI Fridays, experience the spicy Korean

delights of Kimchi and Bulgogee, or the wonderful variety of

vegetarian foods on offer at Sanch’on off Insadonggil (Tel: 735-0312).

Next, make your way to Andong and find the real Korea, the historical

Korea and indeed the international Korea at the Andong Mask Dance

Festival.

Andong is situated about half way down the length of South

Korea. Travel by bus, train or, if you prefer, by plane to Yechon and

then by bus to Andong. Andong, now with a population of 200,000, is

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said to be the cradle of Korean culture, in particular Confucian and

Buddhist culture. There are a number of splendid old temples, stone

pagodas and noblemen’s houses, as well as abundant cultural assets

that have been preserved more carefully here than anywhere else in

Korea.

One of the more enriching cultural displays is that of the Andong

Mask Dance Festival, which started in 1998. As they say in the

advertisement literature, “If you have never watched a mask dance,

you cannot get into heaven!” A short distance from Andong is the

Hahoe Folk Village. It is an ancient Yangban (aristocratic farmers)

village surrounded by beautiful countryside and renowned as a model

of national folk culture and tradition.

The Hahoe Puoishingut Talnori, a dance consisting of nine acts

combining shaman rituals with popular entertainment, and the

centrepiece of the Mask Dance Festival, is still performed there in all

its vivid detail. The Hahoe Dance, with its vaguely Shakespearean

overtones, tells the stories of nine of the twelve masked characters

(three have been lost). They include Kakshi (bride), Yangban

(aristocrat), Sonbi (scholar), Pune (flirtatious young woman),

Choraengi (servant of Yang ban), Paekchong (butcher), Halmi (old

widow), Chung (depraved Buddhist monk), and Imae (foolish person).

The theatre is open air and the crowd is encouraged to participate.

This two hour-long dance starts off the festivities, which last for four

days in late September. Dancers come from many different countries,

including the United States, Japan, China and Indonesia, to join their

Korean counterparts in this extravaganza.

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Performances also take place in the Village of Hahoe, as well as a

fireworks display and a lantern display. The village itself is worth a

visit, if only to appreciate its age, contribution to Korean culture and

the unique houses that face outwards in all four directions from the

centre. This area of Korea is most definitely worth a visit. The festival

was thoroughly enjoyable and the people were cheerful, helpful and

friendly.

Mongolia

By Stuart Malcolm

Gone are the days of unswerving emulation of all things Soviet.

Mongolia has realised that tourism represents a major foreign

exchange generator and has embraced it with gusto. Visas are now

easily available at borders, backpacker guesthouses are springing up

and it is even possible to send e-mail from Ulaan Baatar. Ulaan

Baatar itself is an ugly Soviet city best avoided. However, it is the hub

of all transport and is home to the only edible food in the country, so it

is hard to bypass.

Once out of Ulaan Baatar, roads in any sense of the word

disappear, and there is nothing but wild grassland and desert. For

Europeans used to a sardine-style life, the wide-open empty expanses

are one of the major attractions of Mongolia. The night sky is truly

entrancing—clear enough to see orbiting satellites and bright enough

to read by moonlight.

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Outside of Ulaan Bataar, all accommodation is in some kind of

tent—either one that you bring yourself or in a local's

ger

. Private

gers

are much cheaper (about $5 per person) than tourist

gers

, but

obviously more basic. $5 a night would appear to be a fair price but

when you get several people in one

ger

for a couple of nights, the

family ends up getting a small fortune. As tourism is still in its

infancy, the locals have not seen enough tourists to become greedy,

but it will come, and it will inevitably bring disturbing changes to

Mongolia's delicate eco-balance. Another problem to be aware of is

that guides are keen on buying sweets to hand out to kids. Not only

do they ruin the kids' teeth, but also the wrappers just get thrown

away. A much better alternative is to buy a box of apples in Ulaan

Baatar and give them out. Many kids have never seen apples before.

Wherever you stay, the food is utterly atrocious—boiled mutton,

mare’s milk, and rock hard cheese. And then there is the vodka.

Therefore, it is essential to stock up on vitamins from home and fruit

and vegetables from the market in Ulaan Baatar. Most people hire

vans in Ulaan Baatar and explore the countryside in small groups, so

it is possible to survive as a vegetarian with a little advance planning.

In 1998, there were two guesthouses in Ulaan Baatar, Gana's and

Bold's. They are not easy to find, but touts meet the incoming trains.

Gana's, situated near Gandan monastery, offers

ger

accommodation

and ice cold beers but an unreliable water supply. Bold's, situated

near the circus, offers beds in flat and reliable water.

Both charge $5 a night. Gana's has a well-used notice board

where travellers advertise for companions for hinterland trips. It is

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fairly easy to put together a group of people, a truck or van, a driver,

and a guide to go to places like Hövsgöl lake and the Gobi. Drivers

charge a flat rate per kilometre, irrespective of the type of vehicle.

Travel around the country is very slow and tough (reckon on 20km/h).

A trip to Hövsgöl via Mörön and back via the monastery at Karakorim

and the Mongol Els sand dunes can be done in 12-15 days.

Wherever you go, the highlight will be the nomadic lifestyle of the

locals. Most people still wear traditional clothes: a long

del

tied with a

sash, riding boots and some kind of incongruous hat like a trilby or a

Stetson. This looks even more bizarre when seen on a motorbike with

a sheep strapped to the back. Herds of sheep, yaks, camels and horses

can be seen all over the country. Eagles and marmots are everywhere.

In mid-July, the Nadam festival takes place in Ulaan Baatar.

Thousands of people descend on the city for several days of archery,

wrestling and bareback riding. It is an amazing spectacle.

Nepal

By Elizabeth Sharpe

Nepal has so much to offer off the beaten track as well as on. By

far the most popular activity in Nepal is trekking in the Sagarmatha

(Everest), Annapurna, or Langtang regions. Even if you only have a

week, it is well worth it. In addition, there are white-water rafting,

rock climbing, and jungle safari expeditions. The Kathmandu Valley

has plenty of sites for those with limited time. There are Hindu and

Buddhist historical sites in Kathmandu: Swambu, Pushputinath, and

Buddinath. Outside Kathmandu is Bhakthapur, a well-preserved

Newari village. Nuwakot has short day-treks and outstanding views

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of the Langtang range at sunrise. Try a weekend or weeklong retreat

at Kopan Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Kathmandu.

There are plenty of sights I would recommend outside of the

Kathmandu valley: Pokhara is the start of most Annapurna treks.

Tansen, a small Newari town nestled in the hills, is famous for Dhaka

cloth and gleaming brassware. Janakpur is a Tarai town lit up by

Janaki temple at night. It is also the home of the Maithali artists,

world-renowned for their artwork. Lumbini, south of Butwal, is the

birthplace of Buddha. In Royal Chitwan National Park, you can ride

an elephant or go on a safari walk through the jungle to view tigers,

wild elephants, rhinoceros, birds, and monkeys.

Getting Around

You can either go through one of the numerous travel agencies

found in Thamel, Kathmandu, or go on your own. Buses that run from

Kathmandu are frequent but slow. Outside of the Kathmandu valley,

flag down the local bus, and it will stop for you. Flights to Pokhara,

Butwal, and Lukla are also available from Kathmandu. If you are

trekking, it is not necessary to go with porters and guides. Just get a

hold of a trekking guidebook, available in the numerous new and used

bookstores in Thamel.

When to Go

October through January affords the best possible views of the

mountains. This is the best time to go trekking, though it's also the

busiest tourist season. Going later avoids heavy traffic on the trails,

but in winter, the passes and some lodges may be closed. April is a

beautiful month to trek in the Annapurnas; the rhododendrons are

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blooming. Late June through the end of August is the monsoon

season.

A popular trek during the monsoon is to Muktinath, in the

Annapurnas, because it is in the rain shadow. Costs: Nepal is

incredibly affordable compared to Japan. Guesthouses in Kathmandu

cost about $4 or $5 a night. No need to reserve in advance. Food is just

as inexpensive. Kathmandu, Pokhara, and trekking routes have a

wide-range of food catering to western tastes: pizza, spaghetti, eggs

and toast. Huge bottles of Nepali beer cost just $1. Try the local

alcoholic brews: tungba—a barley drink famous in eastern Nepal, or

roksi—made from rice and is brewed best by the Magars in western

Nepal.

Well worth trying is the national dish: dal bhat, a delicious

combination of rice, lentils, curried vegetables and pickles. Do not

miss out on the tea. It is over a cup of tea that you will get to know

your hosts. Life in Nepal happens while sipping tea. Also, dress

conservatively: you will be more respected and less conspicuous. Bring

a good, comfortable backpack, one you don’t mind carrying for hours

at a time. There is very little space on the bus. So pack whatever you

can fit on your lap. Less is best. You can rent trekking equipment in

Kathmandu. If you are trekking and you do not want to rent one,

bring a 20-degree sleeping bag, or a warmer one if you’re going in the

winter. There is no heat where you will be sleeping and the

guesthouses in the mountains do not have bedding. Bring toilet paper,

but do not put it in the toilet unless it is a pit latrine. On the trail,

there is enough litter, so bring out whatever you bring in, bury well,

or burn trash.

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While in Nepal you will undoubtedly be accosted by the children

who beg for 5 rupees or something equivalent. Do not give. It is better

to donate your money to the charities in Nepal or support the

activities of the Peace Corps, Volunteer Service Overseas, Japanese

Overseas Service Volunteers, or the NGOs that are working in Nepal.

Travelling to and from Nepal

Royal Nepal Airlines is the international and domestic airline.

There are flights to China, India, Thailand and Japan. Visas for India

can be obtained from the embassy in Kathmandu. The travel agency

tours for Tibet handle the group visa for overland tours. Visas for

Nepal can be obtained on arrival at the airport. $15 for a 15-day visa,

$25 for a 30-day visa, $40 for a 30-day double-entry visa or $60 for a

60-day multiple-entry visa (The political situation in Nepal is

changeable. You should contact your country's foreign affairs

department to find out their latest advice for travellers.)

Tibet

By Stuart Malcolm

Without a shadow of a doubt, Tibet is the most amazing place in

the world. Forget your Taj Mahals, Eiffel Towers, Niagara Falls,

Machu Picchus and Ayers Rocks; the Potala is far and away the most

majestic sight you are ever likely to see.

However, and this is a big reservation, Tibet is essentially an

occupied country being steadily ethnically cleansed by the authorities

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in Beijing. Most people are aware of the plight of the Dalai Lama and

the Tibetan government in exile but this is only scratching the surface.

For example, in 1999 the World Bank gave China a massive loan to

relocate thousands of Chinese farmers to the Tibetan plateau in an

attempt to further dilute the Tibetan population. By going to Tibet

you are giving a serious amount of money to the Chinese government

in the way of various "permits" and fees. There are therefore a

number of options for travel to Tibet:

• Do not go. Campaign for freedom by joining an organisation like

the Free Tibet Campaign (9 Islington Green, London N1 2XH,

tibetsupport@gn.apc.org

• Avoid giving money to the government by travelling rough

(extremely rough) and being evasive, e.g. entering by truck at

night under a pile of yak skins and avoiding the guards at all the

tourist attractions.

• Pay for your permit (this does not include any entrance fees,

meals or accommodation) but you should be very aware and

always think about where your money is going. Actively choose

Tibetan hotels, shops, restaurants and tour operators. Do your

research before you go and learn as much as possible while there.

The Dalai Lama's autobiography,

Freedom in Exile

and

Dragon in

the Land of Snows

by Tsering Shakya are excellent starting

points.

• Inform as many people as possible on your return.

Rhetoric aside, there are four land routes and two air routes to

Lhasa. The easiest and most normal routes are Golmud to Lhasa by

bus, Lhasa to Kathmandu by landcruiser or plane and Chengdu to

Lhasa by plane. The other two routes are more difficult and

time-consuming. It is possible to hitch from Kashgar to Lhasa via

Mount Kailash, once you have paid your ･500 fine in Ali.

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The eastern routes from Lhasa to Chengdu and Yunan overland

are extremely difficult, and travelling in the opposite direction is all

but impossible unless you happen to look Chinese or Tibetan and go in

disguise. The last two routes involve several weeks of tough, high

altitude travel.

On any overland trip it is essential to stock up on warm clothing

and plenty of food and water. No one wants to be stuck at the top of a

5000m pass with a broken bus, half a packet of hobnobs and the latest

in designer beachwear. Be aware of altitude sickness. Flying into

Lhasa (3800m) or entering Tibet from Nepal (1000m to 5000m in one

day) presents the most serious problems. Coming from Golmud

(2800m), the ascent is more gradual but even with acclimatization it

is best to take things easy on the first few days.

Regulations on visas and permits change on a regular basis but

generally speaking, it is easier to get from China proper to Tibet than

from Nepal to Tibet—once in China it is simply a matter of picking up

your permit (or pile of yak skins) in Golmud or Chengdu. The

Friendship Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu is generally unpaved

but regularly scraped, which makes one wonder how serious they are

about their friendship. Now that travel to Tibet is becoming easier,

Lhasa is on its way to being the new Kathmandu; Internet cafés are

springing up and all self-respecting restaurants have banana

pancakes on their menus. However, outside the main tourist season

(September to October), there are very few travellers. Indeed, in

winter the city is packed to overflowing with circumambulating

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pilgrims from the countryside with prayer wheels visiting the holy

sites.

Lhasa and its environs are home to the most impressive

monasteries. The reconstructed Ganden monastery is particularly

stunning. There is a wide selection of Tibetan guesthouses, the Pentoc

being the newest and best appointed. Mr. Tundru is very reliable

and can organise land cruiser trips to the Nepalese border. Outside of

Lhasa the main sights are the Tashilumpho Monastery at Shigatse

(home of the Panchen Lama), the Kafkaesque fortress at Gyantse and

the concrete toilet block at Everest Base Camp (5200m).

Central Asia

Ex-soviet & Central Asian Republics

By Stuart Malcolm

For the purposes of this article, Central Asia is taken to mean the

ex-Soviet republics of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan,

Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. The republics have been independent

since 1991, but they are taking their time in shaking off the shackles

of Soviet bureaucracy. This, together with the chaos resulting from

the collapse of their economies, means that they are not the easiest of

countries to visit. However, if you do decide to go, you will find several

outstanding sights, amazing bazaars and warm hospitality. Despite

their language Russian is still the lingua franca. Very few people

speak English so a little Russian will help to smooth over official

hurdles.

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Visas

Visas are likely to be the single biggest hassle associated with any

trip to this area. Regulations change by the minute, and border

guards answer to no one, so getting up to date information is crucial.

Some guards and police officers feign ignorance of visa regulations

and try to "fine" travellers. Police hassle is an everyday occurrence in

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, especially in bus and train stations. Do

not put up with this—stand your ground and they will give up. Stalin

gerrymandered the borders in the twenties. As a result, roads

criss-cross borders and there are enclaves of one country in another.

In the old days this was not an issue, but now there are border posts

at every crisscross, making for a fun time for Mr. Visa Checker. A

highly entertaining account of a recent trip to the region can be found

in Giles Whittel's

Extreme Continental.

Kazakhstan

This is the largest and emptiest of the republics—ideal for

nuclear testing and rocket launches. Almaty, the former capital, is the

only place with anything approaching character, but it is Russian

character, down to the onion dome church in Panfilov Park. Despite

groaning stalls in the market, the restaurant situation is dire—a lot of

the places have shut down and the remaining few serve up overpriced

slop. Shaggies is notable only for the name. Perfectly acceptable

accommodation can be found at KIMEP, the management institute;

basic rooms are available in the bus station. Reckon on $30 a day.

Uzbekistan

Architecturally, Uzbekistan has the most to offer. The legendary

Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are magnificent if

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a little sanitised. A thriving black market in Uzbekistan makes

everything ridiculously cheap—$15 a day should cover the average

traveller. Private guesthouses are starting to appear. Notable in this

department is Mubinjohn's place in Bukhara, a traditional Uzbek

house in the middle of the old town with a slightly cranky owner. A

day or five spent drinking tea, eating kebabs and watching the

wizened elders playing chess and backgammon by the Lab-i-Hauz pool

is the perfect way to relax. Tashkent has a handful of vaguely

interesting museums but is mainly a transit point. The Ferghana

Valley offers the itinerant traveller very little in the way of sights.

One hidden (in fact, non-existent) attraction is the Aral Sea. A trip to

Moynak reveals the folly of Soviet attempts to conquer nature. Once a

thriving fishing port, it now lays some 40km from the sea as a result

of the gigantic irrigation schemes used to feed the region's cotton

fields. Rusting ships lie stranded in the sand, while dust storms play

havoc with the health of the inhabitants.

Kyrgyzstan

At the junction of the Pamirs and the Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan is a

veritable playground for lovers of the outdoors. Trekking, rafting,

skiing, hot springs and camping are all possible. The best place to

base your self is Karakol at the eastern end of Lake Issyk-kul. There

are many companies offering their services but one that stands out is

Yak Tours, based in their little guesthouse on Ulitsa Gagarin.

Vegetarians, or anyone of a squeamish disposition for that matter,

should be on the lookout for the sheep's eyeballs that are sometimes

served up. The grizzly Valentin knows everyone and can organise

anything.

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On the other side of the country Osh bazaar is an amazing

experience. Covering a massive area, thousands of people barge past

selling everything from melons to medicine. Internal transport is very

cheap and, as with the other countries in the region, it is easy to get

around by shared taxi. Internal flights are also dirt-cheap—Osh to

Bishkek is about $20 although a $15 tax for foreigners was payable in

some places.

Turkmenistan

Over 90% desert with little in the way of sights, Turkmenistan

sees far fewer tourists than Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan. However, what

it lacks in sights it more than makes up for with posters of President

Turkmenbashi. Responsible for a cult of personality outstripping even

North Korea, the man is using the country's Caspian oil and gas

income to fund a massive program of construction and glorification.

The revolving Turkmenbashi statue atop a three-legged spaceship in

the centre of Ashgabad is particularly memorable. Turkmenistan is

famous for its carpets, but the carpet museum in Ashgabad is

disappointing. Like the Aral Sea, Merv is a classic non-sight.

Apart from a couple of crumbling buildings there is nothing to see

of the ancient city. However, this is missing the point—the ruins are a

stunning testament to the destructive power of the Mongols. This city

of one million was wiped off the map by an army of Mongol warriors

with orders to behead 300 men, women and children each.

Tajikistan

Linguistically, this is the odd one out of the republics. Tajik is a

Persian language as opposed to the Turkic languages used in the

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other countries. There is a long running civil war raging, and

information on the situation is difficult to come by. A 5000m-border

crossing branching off the Pamir highway from Khorog to Osh is

apparently being built to connect Tajikistan with China. If the war

ever settles down this would be an alternative to the Torugart pass

from Kashgar in western China to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan.

India

By Claire Mortimer

The best-laid plans will inevitably go wrong in India. Be flexible.

This noisy, exotic, dirty, exhilarating place is truly an experience you

will never forget. Before arriving in Delhi, it is advisable to book

accommodation and get the guesthouse to send a taxi, price

pre-determined, especially if your plane arrives at night. We met

countless people who fell for the classic taxi scams; for instance, they

were told their guesthouses had closed down or were full and so were

taken to the driver’s choice of place to stay.

Walking through the main bazaar in Old Delhi, we were accosted

at every step, being so obviously new to the place. Be careful of travel

shop touts who will try anything to entice you into their shops.

Sometimes it is best to simply ignore them. Rude as it might seem, it

works better than confrontation. To be sure of reliability and

reasonable prices, use the official government travel and information

centre at Connaught Place. For all the usual reasons, and as in most

other Asian cities, it pays to be cautious when considering a rickshaw

ride. Before you get in, agree on a price and insist on no detours.

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Our first stop was Agra for the Taj Mahal, where we had some of

the most peaceful and serene moments of our time in India. It really is

a must, especially at sunrise and sunset, despite all the crowds, the

intense heat and hassling locals. In the Hindu Holy City of Pushkar,

we joined in the mad fun of the Camel Fair (beginning of November).

It is best to arrive a few days before the main festival to ensure

accommodation and witness most of the camel racing and trading.

The festival is fascinating. Thousands of people arrive from nearby

towns and villages. There were amazing brightly coloured saris

everywhere, thousands of camels, street stalls, snake charmers, scary

fair rides, and people having their teeth pulled out in the streets!

Although no alcohol is allowed, I recommend a “special yoghurty

drink” full of “herbs” called Bang Lassi—enjoy!

Remember that in India, buses and trains are painfully slow and

unreliable, so if you are going to the airport, allow yourself plenty of

time for the journey. India is not for the fainthearted. You will be

shocked by the extreme misery and poverty, outraged at the caste

system and face many difficult situations. However, you will meet

fantastic people, see beautiful places and have an unforgettable time.

Rajahstan

By Ana Gaston

My first stop in Rajahstan was Jodhpur, more romantically

known as the Blue City. Jodhpur is located on the Eastern edge of the

Thar Desert that stretches across a large part of Rajashstan. The

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first thing I noticed was the wealth and healthy faces of the people, a

far cry from the destitution I had witnessed in Delhi. The main

feature of the town is a gigantic fort that rises up on a sandstone

plateau high above the town.

The local people paint their houses blue to help keep the soaring

temperatures tolerable in summer. The people are a strong and

artistic group. The women wear incredibly bright saris, such as pink

and canary yellow or bright lime and sapphire blue with orange

patterns! With their dark skin, these colours seem to radiate an

impressive beauty and many wear heavy gold jewellery to

complement them. The men are also stunning in their large, sweeping

turbans of red, pink or orange. They usually sport carefully manicured

moustaches preened upwards at the tips. They wear dhotis (a cloth

wrapped around the waist), and perhaps a waistcoat.

The Rajputs (Rajasthanis) had a huge fort erected to defend

themselves from the aggressive Muslim Mughal invasions. I spent a

whole day wandering around the palace within the fort admiring its

glitzy rooms covered in coloured glass, mirrors and mosaic. At sunset I

visited the small temple at the western tip of the fort plateau and took

in the view of the town below. From Jodhpur I travelled across the

Thar Desert to the small city of Jaisalmer on the western border,

which is now an important military outpost due to its proximity to

Pakistan.

Unfortunately, tourism in Rajasthan is so developed that it

detracts from some of the pleasures. I spent four days relaxing and

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wandering the fort walls before setting forth into the Thar Desert for

a camel trek. These treks are a popular option with travellers and it's

an experience I would recommend to others. Inside and outside the

fort, hoteliers and trekking companies compete with each other, but I

went with Desert Boys Hotel’s who organised a three-day/ two-night

trek. I was driven one hour into the desert to meet the camels and

their owners. The camels finished grazing in the bushes and were

loaded up before I climbed on. Everyone in our small group had a

camel and steered it with a rope that was attached to a metal rod that

went through the camel’s nose.

The Thar Desert, diverse in its shades of colour, was enchanting.

We climbed over dunes and reddish/mauve gravel. We rode for three

hours and stopped in a tree grove for lunch. While the camels grazed

we helped the drivers prepare our food. Every meal was delicious and

plentiful: usually porridge for breakfast, curry and fruit for lunch,

biscuits and tea at sunset and noodles, chappati and dahl for dinner.

The temperatures were hot in the day (even though it was winter)

and we all wore hats and scarves wrapped around our faces to protect

us from the powerful rays. In the evening the weather was cool and

during the night and early morning quite chilly. Both nights we

slept on sand dunes under the stars with just a blanket beneath our

sleeping bags. The evenings were relaxing and enjoyable; our group

gelled really well and we were entertained by one of our camel guides

who sang us traditional songs.

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Further information

An Indrail Pass is not the best value for money, but it is a great way

to avoid the constant queues for tickets. You can buy them in advance

from JTB. Tel: 03-1284-7391.

Oceania

Australia

By Claire Mortimer

It may not seem like much of a cultural discovery at times, but

Australia should not just be dismissed as “The UK in the sun.”

There is a lot to see and do and travelling around Australia could not

be easier. It is, however, so vast that several months are needed to do

it any justice.

January and February are perfect months to arrive and explore

the south, then work your way up north by June to enjoy winter in the

tropics. Cheap and popular travel is by bus (the main companies are

Greyhound and McCaferty’s or The Oz Experience for a more Club

18-30 style trip!). Trains can be expensive, as are flights, but check

your ticket, as you may be eligible for cheap domestic flights. A

cheaper option is to drive a relocation car or camper van. The roads

are easy to drive on and it can be refreshing to be off the tourist bus.

Be careful when buying a car from other travellers, who will

undoubtedly have hammered it into the ground on long journeys, as

have others before them. Remember that you must register your car

and that you need a certificate declaring that it is road-worthy. If you

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plan to go into the bush then it is vital that you join the RAC; you

never know when you will need their recovery service. The RAC can

also do a check on your car for a small fee.

We flew into Brisbane and made our way down the east coast,

passing through Surfers Paradise, a developed and commercial resort

mostly for package holidaymakers. Byron Bay meanwhile is more of a

backpacker’s area, a smaller, quieter place with great beaches, surf,

good diving and a chilled hippie hangout.

It is easy to stay a while in Byron Bay, but we moved on to Coff’s

Harbour and then Sydney to do the usual sights and witness the

excellent gay and lesbian Mardi Gras at the end of February. An

evening of glam, gorgeous gyrating bodies and some great post-parade

club nights (tickets in advance) showed Sydney at its finest. Sydney is

a fantastic city with great beaches—such as Manly, a popular

destination that can be reached by taking a short ferry ride from

Circular Quay—and a brilliant nightlife. Sydney Harbour Bridge and

the famous Opera House are spectacular sights, particularly on a

sunny day or at night when both are lit up. (You can get cheap tickets

for the Opera House by turning up half an hour before a performance

is due to begin. Unsold tickets can be bought at cut-price.) Close by

the Bridge/Opera House area is the Rocks, a lovely part of Sydney.

Despite its proximity to these sights, the Rocks is a calm, quiet area

most of the time. It has old-fashioned pubs and colonial architecture.

An un-missable day trip from Sydney is the Blue Mountains,

which can be reached by public transport. Canberra is six hours down

the road and although many people dismiss this city, you can visit the

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new Parliament building, there is an excellent free war memorial

museum and it is pleasant to chill in the street cafes and enjoy life in

this squeaky clean, picturesque city. You can ski in the nearby Great

Dividing Range between June and July.

Five hours on is Melbourne, probably my favourite Australian city.

You can get anywhere on the old trams. Visit the gaol to see what the

“Poms” did to the convicts and then drop by Chinatown for delicious

Chinese and Vietnamese food. Around Melbourne, there are a few

places to escape the backpackers for a while and get a taste of real

Australian life. Bendigo, an old mining town, and the Yarra Valley,

with its wineries (with free tasting!) were good stops. From Mildura

through Swanhill, Echuca, and Yarrauong, we spent a few lazy days

enjoying water sports in the sun. The Goldfields Tourist Route tracks

the major gold rush centres of the last century, in particular Ballarat

and Bendigo. We spent a week in Shepparton, a small rural town,

where we did some fruit picking (January to April, Tel: 058-320300)

and got involved in small town Aussie life with herds of emus grazing

at the roadside—not a Pom in sight; it was excellent!

Along the magnificent Great Ocean Road, over 300km to Torquay

and Warnambool, we took in the spectacular coastal scenery; great

beaches, national parks and the famous 12 Apostles rock formations.

There were good, cheap camping and caravan sites all along the route.

They are even cheaper by mid-March, as the weather starts to get

chilly. We travelled onward, through the hills to Adelaide with brief

stops at the spooky blue lake of Mount Gambier and Kingston.

Adelaide still has an English colonial feel to it and is another popular

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base for travellers looking for work. We moved on to the delights of

Barossa Valley in the lovely rolling hills, where there are over 50

wineries to visit. If you go to the Gawler Information Centre, the old

man behind the counter will give you a great itinerary for an off the

beaten track scenic drive between Angaston and Tanunda. Short

straw for the driver, though, as the unlimited wine tasting goes down

a treat!

We geared up the car with water, camping and emergency

provisions and headed up the road to the red centre to experience the

Australian Outback. This, for me, was the real Australia. The road

from Adelaide to Alice Springs and Darwin is tarmac and very

straight so it makes the driving easy. Fill up at every gas station so

you will never get stuck. Do not drive at night, as the kangaroos are a

very real danger and if you go off road, you must have 4WD or you

will get nowhere. Taking the Stuart Highway north of Adelaide, it

soon gets very hot in the barren desert, but it is remarkably peaceful

and the sense of space (especially after Japan) was awesome. Coober

Pedy gets bad press, but I liked this barren, arid and seemingly

inhospitable mining town where Mad Max 3 was filmed. It is famous

for its Opals and the Old Timers Mine is also worth a visit. You can

also visit the dugout homes. These are houses cut from the rock to try

and stay cool in the 50-degree centigrade summers.

Further north is the Northern Territory and the red centre. It is

the least populated state but has millions of sheep, cattle and flies.

Guaranteed you will buy one of those daft Aussie hats with a net or

corks. You will look really stupid but will not care. In the Northern

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Territory, you can do various Aboriginal activities and learn about

their customs, art and way of life. You can also learn about the white

settler’s history. Remember that to enter Aboriginal land you need a

permit, which is not easy to get. There are tours, mainly up north

near Kakadu. This may be the closest you will get to a real insight

into an Aboriginal community.

It is then a seven-hour drive to Uluru (otherwise known as Ayers

Rock). The purpose-built service village at Yulara tries to

accommodate all budgets but it is expensive even to camp there. You

have no other choice except being ripped-off. The village, however,

has prevented the rock from being spoiled by huge commercial

enterprise. It really is breathtaking and awe inspiring to watch the

sun rise or set on the rock in this magical place. The various walks

around the base of the rock were very interesting and there is a lot of

Aboriginal art to see and legends to learn. Abide by the rule and do

not climb on the rock, so as not to offend Aboriginal spiritual beliefs.

From Uluru we went to Kings Canyon. If you’ve got a 4WD it is

worth taking the alternative Uluru-Kings Canyon route via the

Henbury meteorite craters. The canyon was spectacular with huge

cliffs, lush gorges, amazing views, easy trails and bathing in the lovely

oasis. Just before Tennant Creek, you will hit the Devil’s Marbles

conservation reserves, hundreds of spherical boulders scattered

randomly in the bare desert. At Tennant Creek, you have to decide

whether to go north to the famous Kakadu National Park or east back

to Queens land. After checking the weather, we did not go north due

to a bad and prolonged wet season that made many roads impassable.

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Near Charters Towers, we were lucky enough to stay at a friend’s

cattle station. The closest thing you can do to this is a farm-stay. I'd

recommend it as we had a brilliant time herding cattle in by

helicopter, and helping to brand and vaccinate them. We did, however,

opt out of the ball-chopping and de-horning! Those red-hot days at the

cattle station—staying with salt of the earth Aussies, working hard,

enjoying a cold stubby and a barbecue in the evening—really made my

Australian experience memorable. We went up to Cairns, stopping en

route at quiet Mission Beach to relax and do some scuba diving.

Cairns, in the subtropical north, is a good base for activities like

diving, rainforest trips, bungee jumps, horse riding, sea kayaking,

rafting, ballooning, skydiving and so on. There is also, inevitably,

the beery nightlife.

What better way to cure a Saturday morning hangover than to

jump out of a plane at 14,000 feet? Skydiving was one of the

highlights of my trip and I used Paul’s Parachuting on McLeod Street.

You can jump from 8000, 10,000, 12,000 or 14,000 feet. I watched all

the others jump out and there I was, all alone, climbing even higher!

The views over the rainforest and the reef were stunning, although it

was not the view I was concentrating on as I wobbled precariously,

hunched on all fours at the open door of the plane!

Becoming an adrenaline junkie, I then tried a bungee jump, set in

the rainforest overlooking the reef. The 45m-high A.J. Hacket

platforms did not seem that high or scary after skydiving. A popular

excursion from Cairns is Cape Tribulation in the Daintree National

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Park. You can go on a jungle trek, and see crocodiles, huge spiders,

bats and lots more besides. There is also good accommodation: the

tranquil Crocodilus, right in the rainforest, or PKs where the

rainforest meets the reef. Daintree is a world heritage sight and the

oldest, continuing rainforest in the world.

Further information

http://www.yha.org.au Australia Youth Hostel information

http://www.travelaus.com.au/farmhost

Australian Farmhost Holidays

Pty.Ltd P.O.Box41 Walla Walla, NSW 2659 Australia. Tel:

02-6029-8621 Fax: 02-6029-8770 E-mail: farmhost@albury.net.au

Host Farms and Home stays At Home Down Under, PO Box 98,

Cremore Junction. NSW 2090, Australia.

http://www.wwoof-australia.com.au

WWOOFING (Australia-wide

volunteer work on organic farms)

Fiji

By Chris Gadgie

If you want to seek out the conventional idea of paradise, you

could do no worse than head for Fiji. You can reach Fiji on a nine-hour

direct flight from Nagoya for less than US$900. Unlike some South

Pacific Islands, Fiji is well geared towards tourism. Beware of the

swarms of people trying to gain your favour on arrival at the airport

in Nadi. There is an independent tourist information office at the

airport that can suggest agents for particular places, although it helps

to know what you want beforehand.

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Getting around Fiji is easy, as long as you know where you are

going. The minibuses are a convenient way to travel. They wait until

they get a full load and head off at breakneck speed, faster than the

normal buses for the same price. The capital city Suva, with its Fiji

Museum, is an interesting deviation away from the beaches. Fiji has

many day trips, ranging from mountain biking, hiking, four wheels

driving, canoeing, surfing and diving, to simply relaxing on a beach.

Different travel agencies tend to specialise in particular types of trips.

The Fijian village tour offers the opportunity to see some traditional

island life.

As for beaches, there are too many to mention, but the Blue

Lagoon area, on the island of Tavewa in the Yasawas group, is

renowned for the filming of the Brooke Shields movie. Even without

her there, it remains attractive with Fijian “bure” huts on the shore of

beautiful sandy beaches, gorgeous coral, tropical fish and other

marine life, including turtles, mantas and sharks. Accommodation

varies from budget to more luxury huts.

New Zealand

By Nichola Hopkins, Jo McGregor and Kim McFarlane

New Zealand is a microcosm of the world's delights. It is home to

everything from indigenous Maori culture, native plant and bird life, a

host of thrill seeking adventure opportunities to three million very

friendly people and 60 million sheep. It is an easy country to bike or

hitch around; although bear in mind that climatic conditions vary

from sub-tropical to near Antarctic.

375

Many people hire cars or motor homes, which are good options,

as public transport does not venture off the beaten track. Another

popular choice is the Kiwi Experience—buses that do a tourist circuit

so you can hop on and off when you please. Auckland is a vibrant city

situated on a narrow isthmus between the Waitemata and Manukau

Harbours. Known as the City of Sails, yachting and other water sports

are incredibly popular. Auckland is a good base for exploring the west

coast black sand surf beaches Piha and Muriwai, the location for

The

Piano

, the vineyards of North Auckland and the islands of the

Hauraki Gulf. Auckland has some excellent restaurants and cafés.

Try the Bronze Goat on Ponsonby Road for innovative New Zealand

cuisine and the Middle Eastern Café on Wellesley Street for a quick,

cheap and oh-so-good lunch treat.

Both Vulcan Lane in the city centre and the suburb of Ponsonby

are dotted with cafés and have arty atmospheres. Ponsonby is also

famous for the Hero Parade held every year at the end of a weeklong

gay pride celebration. Devonport is Auckland's oldest suburb and it

can be reached by taking a short ferry ride across the harbour. Full of

beautifully maintained wooden villas, calm beaches facing Mt

Rangitoto, seafront restaurants and some of New Zealand’s best

second hand bookstores, Devonport is the place to spend a relaxing

afternoon. If you feel up to it you can trek through the tunnels of

North Head, built during WWII (in case of invasion).

At Cape Reinga on the northernmost point of the North Island,

you can see the meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea. The

376

Bay of Islands, situated on the east coast of the North Island is, as the

name suggests, a bay full of islands! It is a beautiful area and great

place for boat trips. Coromandel and the Bay of Plenty have beaches

galore. Take a boat trip through the world famous glowworm caves at

Waitomo, or if you are feeling more adventurous go black-water

rafting. See traditional Maori dances, partake in a hangi, bathe in hot

springs, and see boiling mud and geysers in Rotorua. Take a trip out

to some of the surrounding emerald lakes with natural hot springs,

but be warned: it smells!

On the shores of Lake Taupo, the largest lake in New Zealand,

there are many boating, fishing, hunting and rafting opportunities.

This area is also just a small step away from Tongariro National Park.

The Park is set amid the volcanic wonderland of Mt. Tongariro, Mt.

Nguaruhoe and Mt Ruapehu. You can go hiking, climbing, skiing, and

crater lake viewing, and there is even bungee jumping nearby. The

capital city, Wellington, has a beautiful harbour surrounded by hills.

There are innovative theatres and thriving café scenes; take the

cable car up to the botanical gardens, wander along Oriental Parade,

and take in the view from Mt. Victoria. Also worth a look is the

relatively new museum of New Zealand, Te Papa. Built on the

waterfront, it offers something for everyone from interactive hands-on

exhibits to virtual reality “rides” (and you said you would never

bungee jump!). No visit is complete without a stop at the earthquake

house (it really shakes), the Maori

maraes,

and the Golden Years

exhibit that looks at “Kiwi-ana,” those things that make New Zealand

like no other country.

377

The South Island is home to many of New Zealand’s adventure

sports, including bungee jumping, rafting and jet boating. There is

also a plethora of hiking tracks and ski fields. Do not forget the

Coast-to-Coast Iron man race or the City to Surf run!! The Cook Strait

Ferry runs between Wellington on the North Island and Picton on the

South Island through the beautiful Marlborough Sounds. You will

find mountains, sea, native bush, pottery and art in the Nelson and

Abel Tasman National Park. The Abel Tasman coastal track is one of

the most popular and easiest hikes in New Zealand. You can

sea-canoe the same area and land on beautiful golden sand beaches.

Similarly, Nelson Lakes National Park and Arthur’s Pass National

Park are both glorious places.

The west coast of the South Island is one of the least populated

places in New Zealand and has one of the highest rates of rainfall in

the world. Here you can see and walk on the Franz Josef and Fox

glaciers surrounded by rain forest. Lake Matheson is definitely worth

a look, too. It is only a small lake, but it gives a perfect reflection of Mt.

Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand). From Kaikoura you can

go whale watching by boat or by plane. The plane is actually cheaper

as you do not get so close, but there is the added bonus that the pilot

might take you for a spin up into the Kaikoura Ranges.

Situated at the edge of the Canterbury Plains facing the Pacific,

Christchurch is New Zealand’s third biggest city. It is the cultural

centre of the South Island and is known for its magnificently

maintained colonial buildings. A prime example of Christchurch’s

378

colonial architecture is the Christchurch Art Centre, at the old

Canterbury University grounds. It now hosts weekend markets, art

and craft shops, art-house cinemas and a whole host of cafés and

restaurants. On the Historic Tram route and across the street from

the Canterbury Museum and the Christchurch Botanical Gardens, the

Art Centre is a perfect place to while away a hot Canterbury day.

Christchurch’s nightlife is centred on Cashel Mall, Oxford Terrace and

Lichfield Street.

Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki are indescribably coloured crystal

lakes with wonderful views of The Southern Alps and access to Mt

Cook. Moeraki Boulders, north of Dunedin, are famous for their

perfectly round boulders coming out of the sea. New Zealand's tourist

mecca is Queens land, from where you do the highest bungee jump in

the world, go jet boating, water skiing, wind surfing, skiing,

snowboarding, heli-skiing, rafting or take part in any other

death-defying activity. The Fiordland National Park is the biggest

National Park in New Zealand, hosting a glorious wilderness

containing the Milford Track, perhaps the best known of New

Zealand's trails. There are many more National and Forest Parks

offering great scenery and wonderful hiking. Check at the

Department of Conservation offices around the country for maps and

information.

Further information

http:// www.nz-travel.co.nz

http:// www.backpack.co.n

338

Appendix

Phone numbers of diplomatic missions in Japan

Algeria

3711-2661

Argentina

5420-7101

Australia

5232-4102

Austria

3451-8281

Bangladesh

5704-0216

Belgium

3262-0191

Belize

3443-0388

Bolivia

3499-5441

Brazil

3404-5211

Brunei

3447-7997

Bulgaria

3465-1021

Cambodia

3264-6420

Canada

3408-2101

Chile

3452-7561

China

3403-3380

Colombia

3440-6451

Costa Rica

3486-1812

Cuba

5570-3182

Czech

Republic

3400-8122

Denmark

3496-3001

Dominican

Republic

3499-6020

Ecuador

3499-2800

Egypt

3770-8021

El Salvador

3499-4461

Ethiopia

3718-1003

Fiji

3587-2038

Finland

3442-2231

France

5420-8800

Gabon

3448-9540

Gambia

3444-7806

Germany

3473-0151

Ghana

5706-3201

Greece

3403-0871

Guatemala

3400-1830

Guinea

3770-4640

Guyana

5706-3201

Haiti

3486-7070

Honduras

3409-1151

Hungary

3798-8801

Iceland

5493-8776

India

3262-2391

Indonesia

3441-4201

Iran

3446-8011

Iraq

3423-1727

Ireland

3263-0695

Israel

3264-0911

Italy

3453-5291

Ivory Coast

5454-1401

Jamaica

339

5721-4114

Jordan

3580-5856

Kazakhstan

3791-5273

Kenya

3723-4006

Korea South

3452-7611

Kuwait

3455-0361

Laos

5411-2291

Lebanon

3580-1227

Libya

3477-0701

Luxembourg

3265-9621

Madagascar

3446-7252

Malaysia

3476-3840

Mexico

3581-1131

Monaco

3211-4994

Mongolia

3469-2088

Morocco

3478-3271

Myanmar

3441-9291

Nepal

3705-5558

Netherlands

5401-0411

New Zealand

3467-2271

Nicaragua

3499-0400

Niger

5721-6371

Nigeria

5721-5391

Norway

3440-2611

Oman

3402-0877

Pakistan

3454-4861

Panama

3499-3741

Papua New

Guinea

3454-7801

Paraguay

5485-3101

Peru

3406-4243

Philippines

3496-2731

Poland

3280-2881

Portugal

3400-7907

Romania

3479-0311

Russia

3583-4224

Rwanda

3486-7800

San Marino

3498-8427

Saudi Arabia

3589-4241

Senegal

3463-8451

Singapore

3586-9111

Slovak

Republic

3400-8122

Solomon

Islands

5275-0515

South Africa

3265-3366

Spain

3583-8582

Sri Lanka

3440-6911

Sudan

3476-0811

Sweden

5562-5050

Switzerland

3473-0121

Syria

3586-8977

Taiwan

3280-7811

Tanzania

3425-4531

Thailand

3441-7352

Tunisia

3353-4111

Turkey

3470-5131

Uganda

3486-7800

340

Ukraine

3445-9229

United

Kingdom

3265-5511

United States

3224-5000

Uruguay

3486-1888

Venezuela

3409-1501

Vietnam

3466-3311

Western

Samoa

3211-7604

Yemen

3499-7151

Zaire

3423-3981

*For a complete listing of addresses for diplomatic missions from

participating

JET countries in Japan, check the JET Pages at the

back of the General Information Handbook given to you by CLAIR.

*The JET Pages also include a listing for addresses of Japanese

diplomatic missions in JET countries.