THE GREAT
SERVICE DIVIDE
Occupational Segregation, Inequality,
and the Promise of a Living Wage
in the Seattle Restaurant Industry
2020
BY
RESTAURANT OPPORTUNITIES CENTERS UNITED
RESTAURANT OPPORTUNITIES CENTER OF SEATTLE
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
TERMINOLOGY
INTRODUCTION & METHODOLOGY
RESTAURANT INDUSTRY: SEGMENTS AND STRUCTURE
OCCUPATIONAL SEGREGATION IN SEATTLE
MATCHED PAIR AUDIT TESTS
WORKERS’ VOICES
POLICY RECOMMENDATIONS
CONCLUSION
APPENDIX: ADDITIONAL STORIES
END NOTES
1
The restaurant industry employs nearly
300,000 workers in Washington, and over
150,000 workers in the Seattle region.
1
In the coming years, this rapidly expanding sector stands to be-
come the fourth largest employer, providing not only the largest
source of minimum and subminimum wage jobs, but also well-pay-
ing professional careers. Currently, 22 percent of the restaurant
workforce in Seattle earns a livable wage.
2
As one of the largest
and fastest growing industries with an expanding supply of life-
sustaining jobs, restaurants could offer a sustainable career ladder
to thousands of people living in an increasingly precarious econo-
my. This begs the question: sustainable jobs for whom?
With 40 percent of the Washington restaurant workforce
composed of workers of color, restaurant professions could provide real pathways to living-
wage professions for Black, Latinx, Asian, and Indigenous workers.
3
However, the current
structure of the industry denies living-wage opportunities to a large percentage of this
diverse workforce.
In order to determine the role of passive or implicit, and active discrimination in hiring
practices in Seattle’s restaurant industry, the Restaurant Opportunities Centers (ROC)
United has partnered with the Seattle Office for Civil Rights to examine restaurant hiring
practices and the experiences of workers of color. Utilizing census data to analyze segrega-
tion patterns within the industry, matched pair audit tests of job seekers, and interviews
and focus groups with restaurant workers, we examined patterns of discrimination in the
industry in order to craft proposals to support and encourage the adoption of racial equity
practices by employers and the industry at large.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
I
2
KEY FINDINGS
DEFINING THE PROBLEM
OF RACIAL SEGREGATION
IN SEATTLE RESTAURANTS
Racial diversity defines the restaurant industry and its workforce. While workers of color
represent 30 percent of the employed population in Seattle as a whole, they represent
46 percent of the employed restaurant workforce.
Positions throughout both the “Front of House” (FOH, dining floor) and the “Back of
House” (BOH, kitchen) are highly segregated by race and ethnicity. Although workers of
color account for 46 percent of the industry’s workforce, workers of color are concentrat-
ed in less visible, lower-wage jobs, and are underrepresented in the coveted, highest-paid
FOH positions. Only 18 percent of bartenders in Seattle are workers of color.
The distribution of workers of color among different positions based on earnings does
not reflect the diversity of the industry’s workforce, suggesting inequitable systems of
hiring and promotion into higher-paying positions. Twenty-six percent of white bartend-
ers and servers earn a livable wage, compared to 15 percent of bartenders and servers
of color in Seattle.
Matched pair audit tests of 105 fine dining establishments were conducted, with a total
of 100 valid completed audits. Of these, there was no statistical difference in hiring out-
comes based on interactions with hosts and management, however evidence of bias in
social interactions favoring in-group, or white testers was found in 49 percent of audits,
evidence of equal treatment was found in 34 percent of audits, and evidence of treat-
ment favoring out-group, or Black and Latinx testers was found in 17 percent of audits.
Of audits showing evidence favoring in-group testers, 6.1 percent resulted in job offers
to in-group testers, 18.4 percent resulted in call-backs for in-group testers, 36.7 percent
showed strong evidence of bias against out-group auditors, 28.6 percent showed evi-
dence of implicit bias against out-group testers, and 10.2 percent resulted in out-group
testers being told to apply elsewhere, either far out of town or in ethnic-themed res-
taurants.
In interviews and focus groups, restaurant workers described firsthand experiences of
discrimination from managers, customers, and co-workers, leading to patterns of self-
selection bias. Although workers of color experienced overt discrimination, including
being asked to consider lower-paying positions other than server or bartender, these
experiences ultimately led workers of color to not apply for top-tier positions because
management and/or clientele behavior make them uncomfortable, or because they feel
they do not match the image of workers in that profession.
INGROUP
TESTERS
6.1%
RECEIVED
JOB OFFERS
18.4%
RECEIVED
CALLBACKS
OUTGROUP
TESTERS
28.6%
SHOWED
IMPLICIT BIAS
10.2%
TOLD TO
APPLY
ELSEWHERE
3
Discrimination: Unfair differences in employment treatment or employ-
ment outcomes (such as hiring, promotions, earnings) that negatively
impact certain race/ethnic groups or genders. These differences may re-
flect explicit (conscious) bias or implicit (unconscious) stereotypes.
Occupational Segregation: Disproportionate rates of representation of
race, ethnic and/or gender-based groups in different job titles.
“White” and “Workers of Color”: “White” is shorthand for non-Hispanic
whites, and “workers of color” refers to categories of African Americans/
Blacks, Latinos, Asians, American Indians, Native Hawaiians and Pacific
Islanders, as well as to mixed race individuals, and other categories, used
by the Current Population Survey and American Community Survey.
Livable Wage: A livable wage is defined here as the income needed for an
individual to live at four times the poverty level or higher. The median res-
taurant worker in Seattle earning a livable wage is single with no children,
and the average is single with less than one child. For this report, we can
estimate the livable hourly wage to be $26 per hour in the city of Seattle.
Normally, a living wage is defined as the minimum level of earnings needed
to support a typical worker.
Matched Pair Audit Testing: A research methodology that measures the
extent of discriminatory treatment exhibited by an employer of two equal-
ly qualified job applicants. Applicants (auditors) are matched on as many
characteristics as possible, varying only on the observable characteristics
being tested, such as race or gender.
Auditor: An individual trained to apply for employment, housing, etc. in
order to test an establishment’s hiring or related practices and ascertain
if there is evidence of discrimination.
Dyad: A pair of auditors with matching qualifications that visibly differ in
only one demographic characteristic, such as race or ethnicity/national
origin.
TERMINOLOGY
II
MATCHED PAIR AUDIT
TESTS OF SEATTLE
RESTAURANTS
Results of 100 matched
pair audit tests of fine
dining restaurants in
the city of Seattle.
TREATMENT
FAVORING OUT
GROUP TESTERS
17%
EQUAL
TREATMENT
34%
TREATMENT
FAVORING INGROUP
TESTERS
49%
4
“In-Group” and “Out-Group” Tester: An in-group tester, in this case a white tester is
the auditor representing the in-group characteristics that are the beneficiaries of dis-
criminatory behavior. An out-group tester, in this case a Black or Latinx tester is the
auditor outwardly representing the characteristics that are the subject of discrimina-
tion. Characteristics tested can include race, gender, national origin, age, religion, sexual
orientation, and so forth.
Occupational Structure: The relationship between restaurant occupations and the physical
location where those occupations are situated within a restaurant, that largely dictate an
employee’s ability to earn a livable wage.
“Front-of-the-House” (or FOH) and “Back-of-the-House” (or BOH): Restaurant
industry terms for placement and function of workers in a restaurant setting. Front-
of-the-house generally represents those interacting with customers in the front of the
restaurant, including hosts, waitstaff, bussers, and runners. Back-of-the-house gener-
ally refers to kitchen staff, including chefs, cooks, food preparation staff, dishwashers,
and cleaners.
“Tier I” and “Tier II”: Tier I is a term we use to describe the higher-paid positions in
both the front and back-of-the-house; Tier II is the term we use to describe the low-
er-paid positions in both the front and back-of-the-house. Tier I positions offer the
highest wages, opportunities for advancement, access to benefits, and clear career
paths. Upward mobility from a Tier II position to a Tier I position is the most natural
and meaningful form of advancement in this industry. This report primarily focuses on
Tier I FOH positions.
Restaurant Segment: The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) catego-
rizes the restaurant industry (“Food Services and Drinking Places”) into four segments:
full-service, limited service, special food services, such as catering, and drinking places, or
bars which serve drinks but not food.
4
Casual restaurants: Also described as “casual dining” or “family style” restaurants, are
moderately priced full-service restaurants. They include franchise or chain restaurants,
such as Olive Garden or Applebee’s, as well as independently owned establishments.
Casual fine-dining refers not to a casual restaurant, rather a fine-dining establishment
with a less formal environment.
Fine Dining: These are full-service restaurants with a price point per guest of $40 or
more, including beverages but excluding gratuities. Fine-dining restaurants are com-
monly referred to as “upscale” restaurants, and it is common for fine dining restaurants
to have a unique concept (the name, menu, and decor of a restaurant).
Full service: These restaurants have table service where the seated consumer orders
from a menu.
5
The significance of the restaurant industry as a prin-
cipal driver of the economy continues to grow. In the
Seattle region, the restaurant industry employs nearly
150,000 workers and is on pace to supplant manufac-
turing as the fourth largest employer in the coming
years (see Figure 1).
5
Although the industry is the larg-
est source of minimum wage jobs, it also provides
high-earning jobs to 22 percent of its workforce and
has the potential to provide a sustainable career ladder
to thousands more workers.
6
Moreover, Seattle’s restaurant industry is a key node
in regional tourism and hospitality sectors, attracting
visitors and multiplying the flow of dollars into the lo-
cal economy. Both Seattle residents and visitors enjoy
eating out, and the restaurant industry reflects the re-
gions vibrant culinary culture. As such, the restaurant
industry is a key component of the city’s vitality, diver-
sity, and promise.
The restaurant sector is projected to grow by 15 per-
cent over the coming decade.
7
As of the last Economic
Census, the industry generated $4.7 billion in revenue,
accounting for an estimated $303 million in sales tax
for the state and $140 million for the city.
8
Seattle de-
pends heavily on the restaurant industry’s contribution
to the economy and tax base.
Throughout the state, the restaurant industry is a pri-
mary employer for hundreds of thousands of workers
and a portal of opportunity to immigrants, who often
find their first jobs in restaurants and eventually make
a career in the industry. This opportunity is of particu-
lar importance to the economy of low-wage workers,
and can be a source of promise fulfilled or promise
denied. The reality is that white workers in Seattle
are nearly twice as likely as workers of color to earn
a livable wage. Workers of color have over twice the
odds as white workers of working in the lower wage
occupation of dining room helper (busser and runner),
and less than one quarter the odds of working in the
higher wage occupation of bartender, compared to
white workers.
9
The restaurant industry could provide
livable wage jobs to a proportionate number of women
and workers of color, yet it disproportionately relegates
workers of color and women to poverty level wages and
denies them the opportunity to advance into higher
earning positions. The restaurant industry has the po-
tential to provide viable opportunities for all.
SIGNIFICANCE OF THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY
INTRODUCTION &
METHODOLOGY
III
FIGURE 1
LARGEST PRIVATE
SECTOR EMPLOYERS
IN SEATTLE AREA
All employees in major
private industries for
all establishment sizes
in Seattle-Tacoma-
Bellevue, WA MSA,
NSA, 2013-2017. Bureau
of Labor Statistics.
Quarterly Census of
Employment and Wages.
Professional and business services
Education and health services
Manufacturing
Food services and drinking places
Construction
Information
Financial activities
Trade, transportation, and utilities
2013
400,000
200,000
100,000
300,000
2014 2015 2016 2017
6
Previous research examining the fine dining restau-
rant industry in New York, Chicago, Detroit, and New
Orleans has found that the industry’s advancement
opportunities are inaccessible to many workers, and
that discrimination and inequality plague the in-
dustry, particularly for immigrants, workers of color,
and women.
10
Building on these findings, this study
provides a deeper analysis of apparent and not-so-
apparent inequalities in fine-dining establishments
in Seattle. Using both qualitative and quantitative
methodologies, this study demonstrates that al-
though discrimination continues to impact multiple
phases of restaurant employment, from when a
worker first seeks entry into a workplace (hiring and
placement phase), to how they are treated while work-
ing (workplace conditions), and the worker’s future in
that workplace (promotion or advancement), em-
ployers have also made strides in promoting greater
racial equity. A concerted effort by the city, industry,
and the public can further encourage, promote, and
solidify gains in racial equity and personal dignity. We
employed several research methods to capture the
complexities and subtleties with which discrimination
adversely affects the opportunities and employment
conditions in restaurants for workers of color and
women.
MATCHED PAIR TESTING
To test directly whether discrimination exists in the
upscale restaurant industry, we analyzed the results
of matched pair audit tests of 105 fine-dining es-
tablishments within the city of Seattle conducted
by the Seattle Office for Civil Rights (SOCR) as part
of their Civil Rights Testing program. Matched pair
testing allows observation of employers’ hiring prac-
tices when they are not aware of being observed. In
this procedure, dyads or pairs of auditors (“testers”)
applied simultaneously for employment as servers.
Within these pairs, the testers differed in only one
demographic characteristic, that of race or ethnicity/
national origin. Otherwise, the testers had matching
qualifications. Hence, a controlled environment was
created to observe the effect of a protected class on
differences in employment outcomes — who is hired
and what position they are hired for. Between August
2017 and November 2018, seven testers arrayed in four
dyads completed 105 tests on fine-dining restaurants
within Seattle city limits. Tests were all conducted on
the same day, on average two hours and 32 minutes
apart, with a minimum of 11 minutes, and a maximum
of nine hours and 54 minutes difference. All testers
were professional actors.
Testing allows for closer examination of the indus-
try and provides both statistical and anecdotal data.
Other methodologies employed in this study also
illuminate the attitudes, behaviors, and practices that
underlie occupational segregation and discrimination.
Vignettes of social interactions that occurred during
the matched pair audits illustrating the bias encoun-
tered by workers of color are interspersed throughout
this report.
CENSUS ANALYSIS
We examined race and occupational demographics,
earnings, and poverty data for currently employed
restaurant workers in Seattle derived from the most
recently available merged five-year sample (2013-2017)
from the American Community Survey to provide the
most accurate picture of the existent demographics
of opportunity within the industry. We also examined
Bureau of Labor Statistics’ data for the Seattle-
Tacoma-Bellevue metropolitan statistical area and
other data sets to understand employment and wage
dynamics in the industry.
FOCUS GROUPS
We conducted four focus groups with a total of fif-
teen restaurant workers in Seattle to examine issues
of racial equity facing workers in this industry. The
focus group guide was developed based on the les-
sons learned in a previous report — “Ending Jim Crow
in Americas Restaurants: Racial and Gender Occupa-
tional Segregation in the Restaurant Industry” — and
in conjunction with a recent report on racial equity and
implicit bias — Building the High Road to Racial Equity:
Addressing Implicit Bias in the San Francisco Bay Area
Restaurant Industry. The guide includes sections on
worker experiences applying to front-of-the-house
(FOH) positions, employer hiring practices, and cus-
tomer attitudes. The interviews in Seattle and in the
Bay Area were conducted over a two-year period from
September of 2016 to September of 2018. Specific
identifying information was removed or changed to
protect respondents’ identity.
METHODOLOGY
7
SEGMENTS OF THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY
Not all restaurants are created equal. Although all restaurants are in
the business of serving their guests a meal, factors such as ambience,
type of service, and type of targeted patrons segment the industry
into three broad categories which vary markedly with respect to wag-
es, working conditions, and workforce composition. In this report, we
categorize those segments as fast-food or “quick-service,” casual
full-service, family-style or franchise, and fine-dining, both casual fine-
dining and high-end “white-tablecloth.”
At one end of the spectrum, fast-food or quick-service restaurants
provide limited table service and are often characterized by low-pay-
ing jobs and employment primarily of workers of color and youth.
The next segment, family-style restaurants, includes those that are
often considered “casual-dining” with moderately-priced meals and
informal environments. This segment includes both chain restaurants and franchises such
as Olive Garden or Applebee’s, and smaller, independently owned or family-owned estab-
lishments such as neighborhood restaurants.
At the other end of the spectrum lie fine-dining or “white-tablecloth” restaurants. Fine
dining is often defined by a price point per customer of $40 or more including beverages
but excluding gratuity. Restaurants within this segment are known for high-quality service,
talented — often celebrity — chefs, name recognition or notoriety, and unique restaurant
concepts. As a result of the growth of the industry, there is a growing trend of casual fine
dining within this segment, with an emphasis on high-quality food and service in a relaxed
or thematic setting. Increasingly, “white tablecloth” refers to upscale fine dining at a much
higher price point. Although each establishment in this category seems unique, many of
these establishments are owned and operated as part of small corporate chains or “mini
empires,” both within the city and across the country.
The type of establishment in which a person works significantly affects earnings. Fine-
dining establishments offer employment with the highest wages — especially via tips.
However, employment discrimination based on race and ethnicity can lead to exclusion
from jobs in this segment, and this segment experiences the highest rates of segregation.
This segment is therefore most closely studied in this report.
RESTAURANT INDUSTRY:
SEGMENTS AND
STRUCTURE
IV
8
FIGURE 1
TIER I AND TIER II POSITIONS IN THE
FRONT AND BACKOFTHEHOUSE
BACKOFTHEHOUSE FRONTOFTHEHOUSE
While a worker’s ability to gain employment in a fine-
dining establishment significantly increases their earnings
potential, a more important determinant of a worker’s
potential for earnings is the type of position attained in
that establishment. A worker’s position in a restaurant
also shapes how they experience work on a daily basis.
The sommelier helping to pair a wine with an entrée
has very different duties than a dishwasher cleaning a
dirty pot. Each position corresponds to different roles,
compensation, and working conditions.
While many restaurants have their own internal structure of
jobs and job titles, a common pattern for classifying occupa-
tions is applicable throughout the industry.
MANAGERIAL AND SUPERVISORY POSITIONS
These positions include general managers, as-
sistant managers, wine directors/sommeliers,
chefs, and sous chefs. Many of these positions
require specific vocational training or experience.
FRONT-OF-THE-HOUSE (FOH) POSITIONS
These positions involve direct customer
contact, and include hosts, maître D’s,
bussers, food runners, servers, captains,
bartenders, and barbacks.
BACK-OF-THE-HOUSE (BOH) POSITIONS.
These positions involve no direct guest contact,
and include cleaners, dishwashers, prep cooks,
line cooks, and chefs.
OCCUPATIONAL STRUCTURE
9
WORKPLACE HIERARCHIES,
TIER I AND TIER II
Both FOH and BOH contain positions that can be categorized into tiers based on com-
pensation and other aspects of job quality, which we refer to as Tier I and Tier II within
both FOH and BOH. This study closely examines the differences in outcome associated
between these two tiers, and the outcomes associated with Tier I FOH positions in fine
dining. As Figure 2 demonstrates, Tier I positions include those like servers and bartenders
in FOH, and chefs and sous chefs in BOH, while Tier II positions include those like bussers
and runners in FOH, and prep cooks and dishwashers in BOH.
THE SIGNIFICANCE OF POSITION
Analysis of wages in a previous survey of restaurant workers in Seattle encapsulating vari-
ous segments of the restaurant industry, reveals important distinctions with respect to
wages among both the type of restaurant and the type of position when comparing white
workers and workers of color. Overall, restaurant workers of color report median wages
of $2 per hour less than white restaurant workers. Among full-service workers, white men
earn $4.81 more per hour than men of color, and $5.28 more per hour than women of color
when comparing median wages, and white women working in tipped occupations report
that they earn median wages $3.01 per hour higher than women of color.
11
The segment
and position workers occupy have a dramatic impact on their earning potential.
10
DIVERSITY, NOT EQUITY, DEFINES DINING
Racial and cultural diversity define the restaurant industry
and its workforce. Although the industry-at-large is over-
represented by small and mid-sized chain conglomerates,
restaurants representing every concept and ethnic cuisine
imaginable dot the Seattle landscape and expand the cu-
linary habits of many diners. However, the rich tapestry of
diversity found in the restaurant industry does not trans-
late into equal opportunity and equal treatment for women
and workers of color. Positions throughout both FOH and
BOH are highly segregated by race, ethnicity, and gender.
Although workers of color and women account for close to
half of the industry’s workforce, workers of color are con-
centrated in less visible, lower-wage jobs, and both are
underrepresented in the coveted, highest-paid FOH posi-
tions. The distribution of workers of color by position has
significant long-term economic consequences exacerbated
by a lack of opportunities for training, advancement, and
overall working conditions.
RACE AND ETHNICITY
Although workers of color account for close to half of the
industry’s workforce, a large proportion of these workers are
concentrated in the fast-food and family-style segments.
As Figure 3 illustrates, workers of color are overrepresent-
ed in positions such as delivery and room service (86%),
runners, bussers, and bar-backs (63%), in fast food occu-
pations (52%), and as cooks (60%). Workers of color are
also dramatically underrepresented as counter attendants
(2%), a Tier II FOH occupation exemplified by interaction
with the public. They are underrepresented in supervisory
positions (40%), as bartenders (18%), and servers (40%).
The large majority of FOH Tier I positions are occupied by
white workers. White workers occupy 82 percent of bar-
tender positions, and close to 60 percent of all server and
supervisory positions. White workers also hold 98 percent of
OCCUPATIONAL
SEGREGATION IN SEATTLE
V
BOTH INTERVIEWED,
WHITE TESTER PRIORITIZED
FOR HIRING
On a Thursday in October, a Black male
tester and a white male tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a
fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both
testers met with the general manager (GM)
who reviewed their resume and briefly
interviewed them on the spot. The GM asked
the Black tester if he was interested in a
FOH or BOH position, what shifts he was
interested in, what he studied at school, and
explained that servers often quit. The GM
then told the Black tester he would contact
him if a spot became available. The GM later
that day asked the white tester if he was
interested in a full-time position and then
told him that he would be placed at the top
of the list for consideration as soon as a
position was available. The restaurant had
just hired two new servers.
11
counter attendant positions. Although counter attendants’
wages are similar to those of other Tier II positions, coun-
ter attendants share other non-wage job characteristics of
Tier I positions, such as direct customer contact, as well as
greater opportunity for advancement through social net-
works with management. However, it should be noted that
both hosts and dishwashers, Tier II positions in the FOH and
BOH respectively, broadly match the demographics of the
restaurant workforce. Nationwide, host positions tend to be
overrepresented by white workers, and dishwasher positions
tend to be overrepresented by workers of color. A concerted
effort to advance hosts, as well as bussers, runners, bar-
backs, and BOH occupations into server and bartender
positions would create expanded opportunities for workers
of color in the industry.
GENDER
Women account for a little over 47 percent of the total
workforce and 45 percent of the restaurant workforce in
Seattle, but the demographic parity does not extend to
earning potential. As shown in Figure 4, female workers are
underrepresented in the industry’s highest-paid jobs. Posi-
tions in the Seattle restaurant industry are highly gendered,
ALL EMPLOYED
RESTAURANT
HOSTS
DISHWASHERS
BUSSERS, RUNNERS, BARBACKS
FOOD SERVERS & DELIVERY
SERVERS
COUNTER ATTENDANTS
FAST FOOD
BARTENDERS
FOOD PREP WORKERS
COOKS
FIRST-LINE SUPERVISORS
CHEFS & HEAD COOKS
25% 50% 75% 100
WHITE
BLACK
LATINX
ASIAN/PACIFIC
ISLANDER
OTHER
NATIVE
AMERICAN
WHITE TESTER WAS CALLED
BACK TO SCHEDULE AN INTERVIEW,
BLACK TESTER WAS NOT
On a Monday in November, a Black male
tester and a white male tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a fine-
dining restaurant in Seattle. Both spoke with
a host, who took their resumes and asked
them to call back to speak with the general
manager. The host asked the Black tester if
he had previous experience as a server and
asked the white tester if he was interested
in a full-time or part-time position. The Black
tester called back to schedule an interview
with the GM and did not receive a return call.
The GM called the white tester directly to
schedule an interview.
FIGURE 3
RESTAURANT
DEMOGRAPHICS
BY RACE
Demographics of
the restaurant
workforce by
race in the city of
Seattle. American
Community
Survey, 2013-2017.
12
with men holding 65 to 70 percent of chef, supervisory, and
bartender positions, all Tier I FOH positions with the highest
earning potential. Women are markedly overrepresented in
positions involving food preparation, and Tier II FOH service
positions. Women hold 57 to 63 percent of fast food, food
preparation, delivery and room service, host, and server po-
sitions. Although servers are FOH Tier I positions, as seen
in Figure 8, women are underrepresented in the highest
earning Tier I FOH positions. In a striking demonstration of
gender norms, women hold 82 percent of counter attendant,
14 percent of dishwasher, and 20 percent of busser, runner,
and bar-back positions.
THE ROLE OF RACE
AND GENDER ON WAGES
Even though the restaurant industry is the largest employer
of minimum wage workers, and five of the ten lowest paid
occupations in the Seattle region are in the restaurant in-
dustry, 22 percent of restaurant jobs in Seattle are livable
wage jobs, providing incomes at over four times the poverty
level, and an additional 34 percent of restaurant occupations
provide an income at over twice the poverty level allowing
basic needs to be met.
12,13,14
However, this means 44 percent
LATINA TESTER INTERVIEWED,
WHITE TESTER OFFERED INTERVIEW
On a Saturday in August, a Latina female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a fine-
dining restaurant in Seattle. The Latina
tester met with the owner who interviewed
her, reviewed her resume and references, and
told her she was only looking to fill part-time
night shifts and stated that parking was
very expensive so tester would need to make
sure she could arrange transport if hired.
The owner told the tester she was “lovely”
and said she would e-mail her and cc the
hiring manager to follow-up. The white tester
subsequently met with the hiring manager
who reviewed her resume, told her they
were looking to fill part-time brunch shifts,
and told her she would interview her the
following week.
ALL EMPLOYED
RESTAURANT
HOSTS
DISHWASHERS
BUSSERS, RUNNERS, BARBACKS
FOOD SERVERS & DELIVERY
SERVERS
COUNTER ATTENDANTS
FAST FOOD
BARTENDERS
FOOD PREP WORKERS
COOKS
FIRST-LINE SUPERVISORS
CHEFS & HEAD COOKS
25% 50% 75% 100%
MALE FEMALE
FIGURE 4
RESTAURANT
DEMOGRAPHICS
BY GENDER
Demographics of
the restaurant
workforce by
gender in the
city of Seattle.
American
Community
Survey, 2013-2017
13
of the workforce earns wages that are not sufficient to
meet basic needs, and race and gender play a pivotal role in
determining one’s ability to obtain and hold a livable wage
position.
Only 16 percent of workers of color enjoy an income greater
than four times the poverty rate, compared to 27 percent
of white workers (see Figure 5). This disparity is repeated
among the Tier I FOH positions of bartender and server (see
Figure 6). Workers of color are more likely to earn precarious
wages, and this likelihood only increases in the most lucra-
tive positions of bartender and server. Over 40 percent of
bartenders and servers of color are likely to earn a wage in-
sufficient to meet their basic needs, and nearly twice as high
a percentage of servers and bartenders of color earn poverty
level wages (22%) as their white counterparts (13%). This
situation is even starker for women. Nearly 50 percent of
women servers and bartenders earn a wage insufficient to
meet their basic needs, compared to 24 percent of men (see
Figure 8.)
Even though workers of color make up 46 percent of restau-
rant workers, they only account for 31 percent of all workers
earning the average wage for a full-time year-round worker
BOTH INTERVIEWED,
WHITE TESTER OFFERED A JOB
On a Friday in December, a Black female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a
fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both
testers spoke with the general manager,
who reviewed their resumes and briefly
interviewed both testers. The GM told them
the restaurant was not hiring servers at
the moment. The GM encouraged the Black
tester to apply at a fine dining restaurant
far north of the city. The GM joked with the
white tester and asked if she had a flexible
schedule, if she was interested in a position
as host, and if she could start immediately.
The GM referred to both testers as
“sweetheart” at the end of the interview.
At or Below
Poverty
Level
Twice to Four
Times Poverty
Level
Greater than
Four Times
Poverty Level
Once to Twice
Poverty Level
FIGURE 5
RESTAURANT POVERTY
LEVELS BY RACE
Poverty by race among
restaurant workers in the city of
Seattle. American Community
Survey, 2013-2017.
FIGURE 6
BARTENDER AND SERVER
POVERTY LEVELS BY RACE
Poverty by race among Tier
I FOH workers in the city of
Seattle. American Community
Survey, 2013-2017.
FIGURE 7
RESTAURANT POVERTY
LEVELS BY GENDER
Poverty by gender among
restaurant workers in the city of
Seattle. American Community
Survey, 2013-2017.
FIGURE 8
SERVER AND BARTENDER
POVERTY LEVELS BY GENDER
Poverty by race among Tier
I FOH workers in Seattle.
American Community Survey,
2013-2017.
25%
50%
75%
100%
25%
50%
75%
100%
WORKERS OF COLOR
WORKERS OF COLOR
FEMALE
FEMALE
WHITE
WHITE
MALE
MALE
14
RESTAURANT
HOSTS
BUSSERS, RUNNERS, BARBACKS
FOOD SERVERS AND DELIVERY
SERVERS
FAST FOOD
BARTENDERS
FOOD PREP WORKERS
COOKS
FIRSTLINE SUPERVISORS
CHEFS AND HEAD COOKS
25% 50% 75% 100%
WHITE WORKERS OF COLOR
in the restaurant industry (see Figure 9). They only account
for 20 percent of servers, 24 percent of bartenders, and 14
percent of first-line supervisors earning an above average
wage. This story repeats itself for women who make up less
than a third of above average wage earners, and only 40
percent of above average earning servers, even though they
account for over 60 percent of servers (see Figure 10.)
Restaurant workers in Seattle are among the highest earn-
ing around the country, and earn more at every decile than
most of their counterparts in other states and cities, yet the
occupational and wage disparities faced by women and work-
ers of color mirror those of workers elsewhere and relegate
these workers to economic hardship at disproportionate
rates. A variety of factors play a role in this dynamic, in-
cluding openly discriminatory hiring, training, and retention
practices, implicit bias among employers and restaurant pa-
trons leading to unfavorable hiring conditions for workers of
color and women, absence of networking and training op-
portunities for many disadvantaged worker populations, and
self-selection among workers leading them to remove them-
selves from the hiring pool due to the resulting stereotype
threat and impostor syndrome. The restaurant industry has
an opportunity to address these disparities to ensure a more
vibrant and dynamic restaurant workforce and industry.
FIGURE 9
RACE DEMOGRAPHICS OF FTYR
ABOVE AVERAGE WAGE EARNERS
Race demographics of restaurant workers earning an above-
average wage for full-time year-round restaurant employment in
Seattle. American Community Survey, 2013-2017.
FIGURE 10
GENDER DEMOGRAPHICS OF FTYR
ABOVE AVERAGE WAGE EARNERS
Gender demographics of restaurant workers earning an above-
average wage for full-time year-round restaurant employment in
Seattle. American Community Survey, 2013-2017.
LATINA INTERVIEWER STEERED
TO APPLY ELSEWHERE
On a Sunday in October, a Latina female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a
fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both
were told their resumes would be put
on file in case a position opened up. The
Latina tester was encouraged to apply at
a restaurant nearby.
RESTAURANT
HOSTS
BUSSERS, RUNNERS, BARBACKS
FOOD SERVERS AND DELIVERY
SERVERS
FAST FOOD
BARTENDERS
FOOD PREP WORKERS
COOKS
FIRSTLINE SUPERVISORS
CHEFS AND HEAD COOKS
25% 50% 75% 100%
MALE FEMALE
15
In order to examine the role of overt discrimination in hiring practices in
upscale restaurants where the majority of livable wage opportunities are
centered, the Seattle Office for Civil Rights conducted matched pair audit
tests of 105 fine-dining establishments in Seattle. From August 2017 to
November 2018, seven testers visited 105 fine-dining restaurants within
Seattle city limits and applied for a FOH position. Two-person teams, or
dyads, were formed consisting of persons of the same gender and similar
age, appearance, and manner, differing only in race or ethnicity.
Testers were selected, trained, and credentialed to appear equally quali-
fied for the server positions they sought. Each team was carefully matched
for physical and non-physical characteristics. Resumes were developed
to give members of each team equivalent education, restaurant experi-
ence, and other work experience, with the person of color’s credentials
slightly stronger to eliminate ambiguity in interpreting test results. Testers
were provided training in key fine-dining restaurant skills, and teams were
coached together so that personal attributes, such as presentation style
and demeanor, were similar and so that responses to employers’ questions
would be similar.
A comprehensive list of 170 fine-dining establishments in Seattle was com-
piled from multiple publicly available databases including Zagat, Yelp, and
Open Table, from which establishments were randomly selected along with
priority testing of restaurants advertising that they were actively hiring.
A test was defined as completed if both testers succeeded in (a) inform-
ing the employer that they were seeking a job and (b) revealing their race
to the employer by their appearance. Immediately after completing an
interaction with an employer and without speaking with their testing part-
ner, testers recorded their experiences on a structured questionnaire. No
employer appeared to suspect that any tester was not a bona fide job ap-
plicant, however on five occasions tests were aborted due to familiarity of
the tester with other employees on site at the test location. In total, 100
valid tests were conducted, with five tests excluded due to irregularities in
the testing procedure.
The matched pair audit tests found 49 instances of bias in social interac-
tions that favored in-group testers. In three cases, in-group testers were
given a job offer when their out-group dyad was not. In nine cases, in-group
testers were called back for a second interview, while their out-group dyad
was not. In 18 tests, there was clear evidence of the out-group tester receiv-
MATCHED PAIR
AUDIT TESTS
VI
FIGURE 11
MATCHED PAIR AUDIT
TESTS OF SEATTLE
RESTAURANTS
Results of 100 matched
pair audit tests of fine
dining restaurants in
the city of Seattle.
TREATMENT
FAVORING OUT
GROUP TESTERS
17%
EQUAL
TREATMENT
34%
TREATMENT
FAVORING INGROUP
TESTERS
49%
16
ing poorer treatment than their in-group counterpart, and
in an additional 14 tests there was evidence of implicit bias
to the detriment of the out-group tester. Additionally, five
out-group testers were invited to apply elsewhere, either at
restaurants far outside the city limits, or in ethnic-themed
restaurants in adjacent neighborhoods. Only out-group
testers were invited to apply elsewhere. A total of 34 tests
showed evidence of equal treatment, and 17 tests showed
evidence of favorable treatment towards the out-group
tester.
In total, evidence of bias in social interactions favoring in-
group testers was found in 49 percent of audits, evidence
of equal treatment was found in 34 percent of audits, and
evidence of treatment favoring out-group testers was found
in 17 percent of audits. Of audits showing evidence favor-
ing in-group testers, 6.1 percent resulted in job offers to
in-group testers, 18.4 percent resulted in call-backs for in-
group testers, 36.7 percent showed strong evidence of bias
against out-group auditors, 28.6 percent showed evidence
of implicit bias against out-group testers, and 10.2 percent
resulted in out-group testers being told to apply elsewhere.
It should be noted that, in contrast to tests conducted
in other cities, we did not find statistical evidence of dis-
crimination in hiring offers in favor of the in-group (white)
testers. Potential reasons for this include that there were
seven testers arrayed in four dyads, or matched pairs, re-
BOTH TESTERS TOLD TO APPLY ONLINE,
WHITE TESTERS RESUME WAS TAKEN
DIRECTLY TO GENERAL MANAGER
On a Wednesday in November, a Black
female tester and a white female tester
in their twenties applied for employment
at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle.
Both spoke with front-of-the-house staff
who informed them that all applications
were collected online and handed them a
business card with instructions. The white
tester’s resume was taken to the general
manager to see if they were available for an
interview, but the tester was told the GM
was currently in a meeting.
17
sulting in one female dyad conducting 58 tests and one
male dyad conducting 36 tests. It is possible that there
were subjective unmeasured individual characteristics in
the out-group testers in those two dyads sufficient to over-
come implicit and explicit bias in hiring practices. Although
all testers were actors rigorously trained by SOCR and ROC
United, tester experience ranged from extensive to no previ-
ous FOH serving experience.
It is also possible that since the SOCR testing program tar-
geted the majority of fine-dining restaurants in Seattle,
knowledge of the testing was obtained by employers leading
to a change in behavior. As noted above, there were multiple
instances when in-group testers were treated favorably and
out-group testers experienced discrimination, and these are
described anecdotally in the next section, however these
instances did not impact the statistical analysis of hiring
practices. It is possible, of course, that restaurant workers
of color in Seattle experience less discrimination when com-
pared to their counterparts in other cities, but the existence
of patterns of discrimination in outcomes is readily visible
in the demographics of the industry and can be seen in the
fact that nearly half of all tests were found to favor in-group
testers, and only 34 percent of tests found equal treatment
of in-group and out-group testers. One final potential expla-
nation, described qualitatively via focus groups of workers,
is that there is a preference for “lighter-skinned” tokenism in
hiring. When combined with the industry’s high rate of turn-
over, discriminatory experiences on the restaurant floor, and
workers’ of color reluctance to apply for positions they have
been historically excluded from, this tokenism allows oppor-
tunities for only a small group of highly qualified workers of
color. This possibility is further discussed in the section that
follows.
ONE TESTER INFORMED THAT
INTERVIEWS WERE BEING
SCHEDULED, OTHER WAS NOT
On a Friday in December, a Black female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a
fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. The Black
tester was greeted by a manager who was
busy, but took the tester’s resume and said
they would be in contact if needed. The
white tester met with a front-of-the-house
staff who took her resume and informed
her that interviews were being scheduled
for the following week.
GENERAL MANAGER SHOOK
WHITE TESTER’S HAND ONLY
On a Wednesday in November, a Black
male tester and a white male tester in
their twenties applied for employment
at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle.
Both spoke with a general manager, who
accepted their resumes and said he would
review them and get back to them. The
GM shook the white tester’s hand and
asked if he was “making the rounds.”
18
Though racial discrimination in hiring, retention, and promotion is a common experience
for workers, it is rarely overtly expressed as discrimination. Indeed, many restaurant own-
ers are often unaware that the recruitment, hiring, and promotion practices that are
common within the industry are driving racial inequities and leading to employment bar-
riers for workers of color. When questioned about this phenomenon, many employers
stated that they were unable to find a sufficient number of qualified applicants. Oth-
ers circumvented this critique by defending the diversity of their workforce as a whole
without taking into account demographic differences by
position and earning potential.
15
In order to better under-
stand how workers make sense of the racialized disparities
rampant in their work environment, ROC-United conducted
four focus groups with a total of fifteen current restaurant
workers in Seattle and combined them with details recount-
ed by hiring audit testers.
Key themes that emerged pointed to experiences with infor-
mal hiring practices preferencing well-networked applicants,
overt employer discrimination, as well as more subtle barriers
posed by employer practices and protocols. Equally salient
were barriers that workers placed on themselves and that
coworkers placed on each other, including both white workers
who were seeking to maintain their status as well as work-
ers of color who were resentful of the advancement of other
workers of color. Some workers also said that guest prefer-
ence is an important factor. Other common barriers such as
the lack of transportation, commuting among multiple jobs,
and extra childcare needs were acknowledged by many.
PROFILE: JORDAN BROWN
Jordan Brown is 28 years old and originally from Buffalo,
New York. He moved to Seattle to reunite with friends who
urged him to come with promises of good jobs and the op-
portunity to save money, so they could eventually open a
business together. Jordan came with 12 years of experience
in the industry; he started as a dishwasher and prep cook,
but has spent most of his years as a server in fine dining,
some bistros, and often in casual dining or gastropubs.
THE WHITE TESTER
ENCOURAGED TO CONTACT
GENERAL MANAGER DIRECTLY
On a Friday in January, a Black female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a
fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. The Black
tester gave her resume to a host. The white
tester gave her resume to a host who told
her she would pass the resume along to the
general manager. The host also gave the
white tester the GM’s business card and
encouraged her to email the GM directly.
WORKERS’ VOICES
VII
19
“My most vivid memory as a server was when I worked at a showplace called the Tralf. I
got to see some wonderful performances; one was Benjamin Booker, it was magical. I had
never heard of him before that night.” Other positive memories come with great tips. “A
lot of positives. I’ve gotten 50 percent tips before. Birthday tips have always been awe-
some. In Chicago it was really cold and the restaurant was empty, a regular who was a
lawyer gave me a $100 tip on a $40 bill.”
But, over the years, Jordan has learned how he is perceived as a dark-skinned Black man
and is cautious about how and where he seeks work. “Mostly, I feel anxiety. I think grow-
ing up in the 90s, walking into things I felt like racism was dead, but doors kept getting
slammed in my face. It took a while and it took white people telling me, white people who
were watching who told me. The color of my skin is almost always a thing. Appearance as
far as my hair. At one place, if I didn’t keep my hair in a fade, they didn’t like it, but anyone
not black could do anything with their hair.”
“When looking for work, I won’t apply to places because of the experience
of other people of color who I’ve watched, or because I’ve known someone
racist there was in a position of power or there was sexual harassment
happening. Let me put it this way, restaurants don’t need a glassdoor.com.
We all know. If it’s big enough, we know.”
In Seattle, Jordan has been enthusiastically invited to interviews based on
his resume, only to be told that he’s not the right fit once the hiring man-
ager sees him. He recently received an email following up on an interview
suggesting that he was a better fit for a prep cook position, even though his
resume was entirely based on his serving experience. “Unless my manage-
ment has been other people of color, it’s always played a part. A lot of times
when I’ve had white managers, they always favor white men. I’ve watched
it happen - watched someone come in and apply who is perfectly fine and
they end up giving the job to someone with no experience who ends up be-
ing a mediocre worker.”
“It happens constantly. Chicago, New York, everywhere. I’ve even had women and other
minorities do that. I interviewed at a black owned restaurant and it was weird, the guy
had a person of color as his chef, but I later found out that he never hired Black people. His
response to being questioned on this was that he was looking for a higher end clientele
and he couldn’t be a savior for everyone.”
Sometimes, the barriers don’t end after getting the job
“I find that sometimes we don’t get the help or the investment that other people do. I’ve
watched it happen. I’ve even gotten berated for trying to teach a white male something
that he didn’t know how to do because it made him ‘feel bad,’ even though the bartender
told me I’d said nothing wrong. Work mules. We are the work mules. [White workers] get
asked if they want to sit down. Crazy stuff. A black woman I worked with experienced so
much harassment and asked to take a break to go outside, and was labeled as lazy.”
“Myself, I prefer diversity. I just hate the same thing every day. I don’t like being in a room
“I find that
sometimes we don’t
get the help or the
investment that
other people do. I’ve
watched it happen.
20
with only black or only white people, or 100 percent period, it makes me uncomfortable,
no matter who it is. I usually try to make sure I apply at a place that is a little more diverse
— that’s newer, now that I’m older. I’ve been the only black person and that’s not fun —
don’t let something come up missing! I’ve literally quit the same day someone’s tips were
missing and I kept getting asked about it when it was least likely that it could be me. I was
the only Black person there. And when it was revealed that I didn’t do it, the manager said,
‘Oh, don’t make this about race!’”
“I’ve had customers who seemed uncomfortable with me serving them at first, and I ended
up being their favorite — either through some Black servant fantasy, or I did break down
their barriers. I’ve been questioned about my wine recommendations and had guests
seek suggestions from a white coworker. Loved it when my bartender would respond, ‘You
should ask Jordan, he knows better than me.’... it became a thing for us.”
“I wish this wasn’t a thing and wish I didn’t know that rac-
ism is still a huge thing, because I was a lot happier before…
when I thought it was ‘just me.”
NETWORKS FACILITATE HIRING
The primary theme that emerged from our conversations
involved how hiring decisions are largely based on networks
and who one knows. Without those networking opportuni-
ties it is very difficult to gain the experience necessary to be
considered for an opening. Several workers explained, “The
very first job that I got, I was recommended by my brother,”
and “most of the jobs I’ve had in the industry, it was be-
cause someone who already worked… they recommended
[me] into that position.” One manager in one of the focus
groups noted, “I’ve been talking to managers and owners
a lot lately, asking: “How do we [stop] just hiring from our
friend group?”… “It doesn’t matter if it’s a luxury restaurant
or cocktail bar, all of the key positions, you’re trying to hire
people you already know.” Once one has built up experience,
it isn’t enough to take a resume to highlight one’s experi-
ence, as another worker noted: “People want something or
someone they trust. I did the walk around, dropping resumes
at places a couple of times… I’ve never dropped off a resume
again. I [only] apply for positions that are open.”
EMPLOYER BIAS
Another theme that emerged from the focus groups in-
volved employer bias, both subtle and overt. “The racism
that is involved in our industry isn’t the kind that is actively
WHITE TESTER ENCOURAGED
TO CONTACT GENERAL
MANAGER DIRECTLY
On a Friday in January, a Black female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a fine-
dining restaurant in Seattle. Both were met
by FOH staff who accepted their resumes.
The Black tester was told to apply online
and was not greeted with a smile or eye
contact. The white tester was told to email
the general manager directly and was asked
about her recent experience.
21
hurtful, it’s passively hurtful and painful,” said one worker. “I
don’t see a lot of people of color in serving positions. Maybe
budget, but not at higher-end restaurants,” noted another.
When workers of color are on the floor, they are more likely
to face disciplinary sanctions, “People are quicker to disci-
pline workers of color,” noted one participant. One African
American manager who noted that she could see workers of
color breathe a sigh of relief when they saw her explained,
As we think about encouraging more workers of color to
enter these positions where they’re not normally [present],
we don’t have a lot of workers of color with experience …
they’re going to stand out and any errors they make are go-
ing to stand out. So how do we support them and prepare
restaurants for meetings and provide ongoing trainings? It’s
not just about hiring people in the door, but keeping them.”
She also noted near constant turnover when they did hire
workers of color, in part due to the unfair discipline:
“I finally got an African American in FOH one day and he
came to work sick one day, hung over… I let the new manag-
er know… and he was extremely passive aggressive… bussing
his tables for him, slamming things down. It was very unfair
because we had white employees that would come in and
be 1000 times worse… clearly intoxicated from the night be-
fore, and it was just okay… we didn’t see many black folks in
there honestly.”
Workers observed that management already knows who it
wants for a position, “It’s the old school mentality of women
on the floor, women in the front of the house, and men are
the managers.” One worker noted, “Owners don’t explicitly
say it, but they feel certain races are not a good fit for cer-
tain positions.” The exceptions, in workers’ minds, stand out:
At [one restaurant] the owner is a woman of color, and she
has tried to hire for diversity and we have a pretty diverse
clientele. She had a lot of press for being a South Asian busi-
nesswoman in the neighborhood.”
RESTAURANT PATRON PREFERENCE
Participants in the focus groups noted that clientele play an
important role in how workers are treated. One white server
who was bussing noted, “I was just helping deliver food to
the table. I was the white guy so [customers] wanted to talk
to me, not the African American manager.”
WHITE TESTER ENCOURAGED
TO APPLY
On a Friday in January, a Black female
tester and a white female tester in their
twenties applied for employment at a
fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both
were met by FOH staff and told that
interviews would be occurring shortly.
The white tester was greeted warmly and
asked about her background.
WHITE TESTER INVITED
TO AN INTERVIEW
On a Sunday in March, a Black female tester
and a white female tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining
restaurant in Seattle. The Black tester
was met by a host who asked if she had
experience tending bar. The white tester
was greeted by back-of-the-house staff
who offered a short, rushed interaction.
The white tester was called back for an
interview, while the Black tester was not.
22
One worker of color complained about restaurant patrons
treating workers as exotic oddities. “If you are the only per-
son of color working FOH at a bar or restaurant, there’s a
general curiosity about you. People notice you and ask ques-
tions to figure you out.” While another complained about
patrons doubting their fine-dining skills, “I curated the wine
list, and they can’t fathom that a Black person could be do-
ing such a thing... ‘Oh, you speak so well,’ they say. There’s an
expectation that a person of color can’t have refined taste
or enjoy things that aren’t necessary to life, such as cocktails
or luxury items.”
At times, workers acknowledged the issue of customer
preference but saw it as the natural order of things, as one
worker stated: “People are more comfortable being served
by somebody that looks like them.”
STEREOTYPE THREAT, IMPOSTER
SYNDROME, AND WORKER RESENTMENT
Many workers shared the common experience of being re-
quired to train new, white workers for a higher-paid position
but never being considered for that position themselves
— for example, bussers and runners training a newly hired
server, or long-time servers training white workers to take
on a management role.
While qualified workers did object to being passed over for
positions, many expressed a desire to avoid advancement
opportunities in a manifestation of “imposter syndrome
and “stereotype threat,” both common occurrences for
women or people of color who do not fit the stereotypi-
cal image for certain positions. “Imposter syndrome” is a
thought pattern in which one doubts one’s accomplishments
and has an ungrounded fear of being exposed as unquali-
fied or incapable, whereas “stereotype threat” refers to the
fear of confirming negative stereotypes about one’s iden-
tity group.
16
These workers said they did not want to pursue
advancement out of concern that they would be viewed as
underqualified or “not the right fit” for the position, regard-
less of their actual skillset.
WHITE TESTER TOLD
HER RESUME WOULD BE GIVEN
DIRECTLY TO MANAGER
On a Friday in June, a Black female tester
and a white female tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining
restaurant in Seattle. Both were met by a
FOH staff who accepted their resumes. The
white tester was told her resume would be
given to the manager.
WHITE TESTER INTERVIEWED,
OFFERED A STAGE
On a Tuesday in May a Black male tester
and a white male tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining
restaurant in Seattle. The Black tester left
his resume with a FOH staff. The white
tester was directed to the hiring manager
who conducted a brief interview and
invited the tester to come in on Friday for
a stage (work trial).
23
Restaurant Opportunities Centers United has developed
a suite of policy recommendations to promote equitable
outcomes in the restaurant industry. A selection of these
recommendations are highlighted here.
In order to racially desegregate the restaurant industry,
many more restaurants need to engage in the process of
interrogating and transforming their recruitment, hiring, and
retention pathways to proactively counter bias and discrimi-
nation. We need policymakers to leverage their influence, in
conjunction with committed restaurant owners, restaurant
patrons, and workers. Without the pressure of these vital
players, industry-wide change will likely be gradual and in-
termittent.
Employers, in particular, can advance racial equity through,
Adding Racial Equity to the Menu: An Equity Toolkit for
Restaurant Employees,” a toolkit created by Restaurant
Opportunities Centers United (ROC United), Race Forward,
and the Center for Social Inclusion. The toolkit provides in-
terested employers with step-by-step resources to assess,
plan, and implement steps towards greater racial equity on
the job. The toolkit allows employers to track the level of oc-
cupational segregation through straightforward worksheets
that can be used to measure change in segregation over
time. The toolkit also allows employers to dig deeper and
create action-based plans around racial equity assessments
and work plans; recruitment, outreach, and advertising; the
application and hiring process; and promotions and training.
The toolkit was created with the input and support of com-
mitted restaurateurs who tested and piloted the multiple
steps outlined therein. The toolkit provides useful strategies
for combating implicit bias, encouraging employers to make
reasoned thought-out decisions using suggested rubrics,
and avoiding spur-of-the moment decisions in the pressure-
cooker atmosphere of a busy kitchen. Employers can obtain
the toolkit and use it independently, or can reach out to ROC
United for assistance in crafting a plan to advance racial eq-
uity in their restaurants.
WHITE TESTER INVITED
TO INTERVIEW
On a Sunday in July, a Black female tester
and a white female tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining
restaurant in Seattle. Both were met by
a host who accepted their resumes. The
white tester received a phone call and an
invitation for an interview from the general
manager, but the Black tester did not.
POLICY
RECOMMENDATIONS
VIII
24
Policymakers can advance greater racial equity across the
industry by passing legislation that provides incentives to
restaurants that are willing to engage in the intensive pro-
cess of transitioning to a more equitable workplace. After
thorough research through a partnership with the Harvard
Law School Food Law and Policy Clinic, ROC United and
Race Forward identified three primary incentive structures
for policy makers to consider: tax, licensing, and recogni-
tion incentives. The city of Austin, Texas, for example, has
adopted a Business Expansion Incentive Program that
provides economic incentives in the form of property tax
reimbursements and a percentage of wages reimbursement
to employers who pay their employees at least the city of
Austins living wage (currently $15 per hour), and operate
locally, hire workers with barriers, or relocate workers with-
in the city limits. The city of Oakland, CA is considering a
recognition program that would certify progress towards
racial equity for employers who could demonstrate such.
ROC United has developed an online program in cooperation
with UC Berkeley Haas School of Business to certify employ-
ers interested in decreasing segregation and wage inequity
in their business that utilizes the tools in the Racial Equity
Toolkit to walk employers through racial equity assessments,
education and training, stakeholder engagement, action plan
development, and action plan implementation.
Restaurant patrons play the most crucial role in advancing
racial equity. The restaurant industry has been transformed
by the public’s demand for organic, local, and sustainable
food. The public must also prioritize treatment of work-
ers, and in particular, racial and wage equity when choosing
restaurants. ROC United has developed a tool, the Diners
Guide, that allows restaurant patrons to see how restau-
rants fare on wages, benefits, and racial equity. The public
should use this tool to encourage restaurants they frequent
to participate in certification programs to demonstrate
public demand for worker rights. An official recognition pro-
gram would then serve as an incentive for restaurateurs to
demonstrate to the public their commitment to racial and
wage equity. The findings in this report, supported by the
vignettes interspersed throughout, clearly show that these
and other steps are necessary to achieve racial equity in the
restaurant industry.
WHITE TESTER INTERVIEWED,
INVITED TO A FOLLOWUP
INTERVIEW NEXT DAY
On a Wednesday in July a Black male tester
and a white male tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining
restaurant in Seattle. Each tester handed
in his resume to a FOH staff. The white
tester was invited to meet the general
manager who conducted an interview,
inquired about availability, wine knowledge,
and prior experience. The GM invited the
white tester to return the following day for
a formal interview.
25
The restaurant industry has the potential to
provide livable wage jobs to a plurality if not
a majority of its workforce. However, even
though Seattle’s restaurant industry is racially
diverse, demographic data derived from the US
Census demonstrate severe racial and ethnic
segregation by occupation. Although workers of
color account for 46 percent of the industry’s
workforce, workers of color are concentrated
in less visible, lower-wage jobs, and are under-
represented in the coveted, highest-paid FOH
positions. For example, only 18 percent of bar-
tenders in Seattle are workers of color and are
nearly half as likely as their white counterparts
to earn a livable wage. Matched pair audit tests of restaurant hiring
practices found that a plurality of applicants of color experience
unfavorable treatment during the hiring process, and during inter-
views and focus groups restaurant workers described a pattern of
discriminatory behavior in their interactions with managers, cus-
tomers, and co-workers. These experiences ultimately lead many
workers of color to avoid seeking higher-earning opportunities in
the industry. A concerted effort is needed to support employers
committed to racial equity, to ensure workers are supported as
they seek employment opportunities, and to build demand among
consumers for racial equity in their dining decisions.
CONCLUSION
IX
WORKERS OF COLOR
ACCOUNT FOR
46%
OF THE INDUSTRY’S
WORKFORCE
26
WHITE TESTER WAS TOLD RESUME
WOULD BE GIVEN DIRECTLY TO GENERAL MANAGER
On a Friday in August, a Black female tester and a white female tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both were met by FOH staff
who accepted their resumes. The Black tester was told to apply online. The white tester
was ensured her resume would be handed directly to the general manager.
WHITE TESTER OFFERED JOB AS SERVER, BLACK TESTER ASKED
TO CONSIDER A POSITION AS A BARISTA
On a Friday in August a Black male tester and a white male tester in their twenties applied
for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both testers were interviewed by
the hiring manager who inquired about availability, prior experience, and explained the pay
structure. The hiring manager asked the Black tester if he would be willing to work as a
barista, a lower paying position, and told him to call back that evening. The hiring manager
offered the white tester a position as a server at the end of the interview, and did not
mention the barista position.
BLACK TESTER INTERVIEWED WITH NO FOLLOWUP,
WHITE TESTER WAS INVITED TO INTERVIEW MULTIPLE TIMES
On a Friday in August a Black male tester and a white male tester in their twenties applied
for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. The Black tester was interviewed
by the general manager and HR rep, who discussed his availability, past experience, skills,
wages, and tip structure. They then told the Black tester to apply online, and he received
no additional follow-up. The white tester left his resume with a server, and received three
emails, two from an assistant manager, and one from the GM, asking him to apply online
in order to schedule an interview.
WHITE TESTER WAS INTERVIEWED BY GENERAL MANAGER,
BLACK TESTER WAS NOT
On a Friday in October, a Black female tester and a white female tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. The Black tester left her
resume with a FOH staff who told her she would give it to the general manager. The white
tester was invited to meet the GM who reviewed her resume, told her they were hiring for
lunch, and promised to get back to her.
APPENDIX:
ADDITIONAL VIGNETTES
X
27
WHITE TESTER MET WITH GENERAL MANAGER,
BLACK TESTER WAS NOT
On a Thursday in October, a Black female tester and a white female tester in their twen-
ties applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both testers left their
resumes with a FOH staff. The white tester was invited to meet the general manager, who
told her they were not hiring but would keep her information on file.
WHITE TESTER WAS GIVEN APPLICATION TO COMPLETE,
BLACK TESTER WAS NOT
On a Friday in October, a Black female tester and a white female tester in their twen-
ties applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both testers left their
resumes with a FOH staff. The white tester was given an application to fill-out. The ap-
plication included questions about criminal background.
WHITE TESTER WAS INVITED TO CONTACT GENERAL MANAGER,
BLACK TESTER WAS NOT
On a Thursday in October, a Black female tester and a white female tester in their twen-
ties applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both testers left their
resumes with a FOH staff. The white tester was given the general manager’s business card
and encouraged to contact them directly to discuss open server positions.
BLACK TESTER WAS ASKED WHERE SHE LIVED,
WHITE TESTER WAS ASKED ABOUT MORNINGSHIFT
On a Friday in October, a Black female tester and a white female tester in their twenties
applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. Both testers met with the
hiring manager. The hiring manager asked the Black tester where she lived, and asked the
white tester if an 8am to 2pm Monday to Friday shift would work for her.
BOTH TESTERS INTERVIEWED, BLACK TESTER INTERVIEWED
EXTENSIVELY ON WINE KNOWLEDGE
On a Wednesday in November, a Black male tester and a white male tester in their twen-
ties applied for employment at a fine-dining restaurant in Seattle. The Black tester was
given an application to fill out at home. The white tester was asked to fill out an applica-
tion on the spot to give to the manager, and was given a business card with the manager’s
name and contact information. Both testers were invited to apply the next day and were
questioned extensively by the hiring manager. Unlike the white tester, the Black tester was
not provided an application page testing knowledge of wine and liquor, and instead was
asked to rank wine according to body and varietal. The restaurant had recently hired two
servers and told both testers to apply again in March.
28
1 Bureau of Labor Statistics, May 2018 Occupational Employment and Wage Estimates for the United States, Washington,
and Seattle-Tacoma-Bellevue metropolitan statistical areas.
2 Restaurant Opportunities Centers (ROC) United analysis of American Community Survey 2013-2017. IPUMS-USA, Uni-
versity of Minnesota, www.ipums.org. High earning or livable wage is defined here as earning four-times the poverty level
or more. The median worker in that category was single with no children, and the average was single with less than one
child. For this report, we can estimate the livable hourly wage to be $26 in the city of Seattle.
3 Ibid. Statewide, workers of color comprise 28.3 percent of the entire workforce.
4 The restaurant categories described in this report are similar to the NAICS categories, with the addition of a distinction
within full service between “fine dining” and “casual restaurants.” Distinguishing these two categories proves critical to
our analysis because job quality, employer practices, and patterns of ethnic and racial employment and occupational
segregation differ across the two segments.
5 Bureau of Labor Statistics, Quarterly Census of Employees and Wages for Seattle-Tacoma-Bellevue Metropolitan Statisti-
cal Area, 2013-2017.
6 Restaurant Opportunities Centers (ROC) United analysis of American Community Survey 2013-2017. IPUMS-USA, Univer-
sity of Minnesota, www.ipums.org. High earning is here defined as earning four-times the poverty level or more. See also
Bureau of Labor Statistics characteristics of minimum wage workers.
7 Restaurant Opportunities Centers United analysis of Long-Term Occupational Projections 2016-2026 and Short-Term Oc-
cupational Projections 2018-2020, Projections Central: State Occupational Projections, Projections Managing Partnership,
weighted by Average Annual Openings. Derived from Occupational Employment Projections, Bureau of Labor Statistics.
8 US Census, “2012 Economic Census.” Available at http://www.census.gov/econ/. Estimate uses 6.5% sales tax for the
state and 3% for the city.
9 See note 2.
10 Restaurant Opportunities Centers United, 2004. The Great Service Divide. New York, NY: ROC United.
11 Behind the Kitchen Door: The Highs and Lows of Seattle’s Booming Restaurant Economy, 2015. New York, NY: ROC United.
12 Bureau of Labor Statistics, March 2018. Report 1072: Characteristics of minimum wage workers, 2017.
13 Bureau of Labor Statistics, May 2018 Occupational Employment and Wage Estimates for the Seattle-Tacoma-Bellevue
metropolitan statistical areas sorted by median wage.
14 See note 2.
15 Ending Jim Crow in Americas Restaurants: Racial and Gender Occupational Segregation in the Restaurant Industry,”
2015. New York, NY: ROC-United.
16 Edwards, C. W., 2019. Overcoming Imposter Syndrome and Stereotype Threat: Reconceptualizing the Definition of a
Scholar. Taboo: The Journal of Culture and Education, 18 (1). https://doi.org/10.31390/ taboo.18.1.03.
END NOTES
ROC United
275 7th Ave, Suite 1703
New York, NY 10001
212.343.1771
ROC Seattle
1402 Third Avenue, Suite 201
Seattle, WA 98101
206.369.9995
Research for this publication was generously
supported by the W.K. Kellogg Foundation
and Annie E. Casey Foundation
Sponsored by
Seattle Office for Civil Rights
THE GREAT SERVICE DIVIDE
Occupational Segregation, Inequality,
and the Promise of a Living Wage
in the Seattle Restaurant Industry